linksys WRT54G power supply problem

(I didn't see the original message on my news feed, so I'm replying to the reply. Sorry.)

I've lost three of the old 5VDC 3A Linksys power supplies used on the WRT54Gv1 incantation. Every model after that used 12VDC 1A power supplies, which seem to work just fine. The WRT54G has a very wide range switching regulator inside that will run on anything from about

4VDC to perhaps 18VDC. If the power supplies that are blowing up are 5VDC 3A models, I suggest trying the 12VDC 1A flavor.

Another possibility for PS failure is overheating. I had one customers that blew up their router wall wart because the floor heater had cooked the power supply sufficiently to blow the internal thermal fuse (usually 175F).

There are also cord flex problems. Molded power connectors often go intermittent. Same with breaking the power connector inside the WRT54G. Check the power supply output with a DC voltsguesser.

Power spikes and AC line glitches sufficient to fuse a power supply would also blow up most of the home electronics in the house. Dropping the neutral might cause one phase of the power line to go overvoltage. It's possible, but there would probably be considerable damage to other things in the house. The typical surge protector will also protect (or destroy itself) against overvoltage.

Reply to
Jeff Liebermann
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Maybe it is being blown by power spikes?

Reply to
Dan

For the second time, the power supply for my linksys WRT54G has died. Obviously I am now thinking there is a problem with the router. Though I am willing to accept it just might be a coincidence even though it seems unlikely.

Anyone else seen a similar problem with these routers?

Reply to
John Blessing

Hi,

John, what state is the surge protectors? Some people just purchase a marked generic surge protector and think it will work forever. Not so!

I really like the neon indicators for the obvious reason but I still periodically check my units. Even the box mount units. The MOVs' in the cheaper units will protect but if the hit is to large. Then the joules for that device rating could be exceeded therefore the device will fail.

Gas discharge (GDT) is another good means of protection but most consumers don't select these. They will opt for the MOV or Avalanche Diodes which do work (cheaper). But the device impedance is not that of a GDT let alone the capacitance.

NOTE! Check that adapter.

As for the wall wart. I agree with Jeff in that the WRT54G will allow you to use the 12 VDC 1A.

Reply to
gary

It's on one of those surge-protected adaptors.

Reply to
John Blessing

First, as was standard even 30 years ago, the load cannot damage any properly designed power supply (which is not necessary true of power supplies purchased by business school graduates using cost controls).

Second, power supply contains everything internally that can protect it on the power cord.

Third, plug-in protectors don't even claim to protect from typically destructive transients. The effective protector must earth transients before they can enter the building. Learn from what professional locations have been doing even before WWII. The 'whole house' protector earths destructive transients at the service entrance because any transient inside the building will find numerous destructive paths. For telephone switched centers, the protector is best locate 50 meters from the transistors AND directly on the earth ground. Earth ground - not the protector - defined protection. The protector only connects a destructive transient to protection

- earth ground.

Your protector was only providing transients with more destructive paths through that router.

Fourth, without more specific information - such as voltage readings - then we don't know what happened to that power supply. I don't even see where there is any reason to believe the supply is sufficiently sized OR that the replacement supply has sufficient regulation. IOW I don't even see where a replacement supply was an exact manufacturer replacement. There is more to power supplies than just voltage and amperage.

The plug-in surge-protected adaptor is just as effective when in a trash bag. They don't even claim to protect from typically destructive transients. They simply claim protection from a transient that does not typically exist - and then shorts you information so that you will assume "surge protector = surge protection". Protector and protection are two completely different components of a surge protection system. So manufacturer lies by telling half truths.

Def>> >>> For the second time, the power supply for my linksys WRT54G has

Reply to
w_tom

A couple extra summer school courses might be good... ;-)

Whoa. What kind of current rating did that replacement have.

And what kind of current rating does the one you are using now have?

(If you decide to dump it... heh heh, I'll send you my address!)

Reply to
Floyd L. Davidson

Hmmm... a 5 VDC supply rated at 1.6A can deliver 8 Watts.

The supply that Linksys sells with the unit is 12V at 1A, or 12 Watts.

Hence, you are probably pushing it a bit, but it might work. On the other hand, if that other supply was 5 V at 1 A, it would not be amazing that it burned up. For that matter, if the 1.6 A supply goes it won't be shocking.

I'd find a power supply that can handle closer to 12 Watts, or more.

Reply to
Floyd L. Davidson

Crikey, didn't think I was going to have to study night-school for this I was only trying to ascertain if it was a known problem with this router.

Output on the 1st p/s went to about 3.6V. The replacement was just a.n. other 5v p/s I had kicking around, worked for a week or so, then it's output went to 0V

If the third one goes then I think I will just replace the router.

Reply to
John Blessing

3rd one is 1.6A, pretty sure the 2nd one was about the same, but it is in the bin now.
Reply to
John Blessing

That low voltage is what power supplies do to protect themselves; what they do when a load is excessive. Its call foldback current limiting. Previous supplies are probably still good - just not enough current for that router. Sounds like you need 15 watts or more. Also, those other supplies are rated at 12 watts plus or minus how much? One 12 watt supply might really only output '10 point something' watts.

There there is this other problem > Crikey, didn't think I was going to have to study night-school for

Reply to
w_tom

Good point. Though the original Linksys p/s was rated 5v and I think 1.6A. I might try finding a higher rated 12V supply if this one goes u/s as well.

Reply to
John Blessing

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