Yes, it's going to start a fire. The "converter" is a diode or dropping resistor. It's not designed to run transformers or switching power supplies.
The product data sheet does not disclose if the DLink 108ag DI-624S
formatting link
run directly on 220VAC without a "converter". Most of the switching power supplies will do this. Look on the label on the DLink power supply and see if it will run on 220VAC. It will say something like: 100-240VAC - 50-60Hz If so, it should work directly on UK power. Otherwise, I suggest you either:
Find a 5VDC 2.5A power adapter that will run on UK power and will fit the router.
Purchase a transformer voltage converter for the purpose. They're big, heavy, ugly, overpriced, but safe. Something like this:
That's fine, but what are the input ratings for this wall wart? It might be universal (90-270V or some such) in which case you don't need the 'converter', but it's probably just a wall wart with 110V input and "12V" output...
It depends on what kind of "converter block" you have, there are two types, and they are _not_ interchangable:
1) A diode that only gives you one half-cycle of 220V power, which is roughly equivalent to 110V power for resistive loads. This is only suitable for hair dryers, lights, and resistance heaters.
2) A small transformer that converts from 220VAC to 110VAC, but is usually only good for a very low-power device. Of course, if you have a 12V, 1A power supply, that's only about a 25 watt load, which should be fine.
What do the labels on your "converter block" say? I'd say if anything runs at "too hot to touch" it's potentially dangerous and should be fixed (probably replacing it with the appropriate device).
You could also ask D-Link for a country-appropriate converter, or stop by your local electronics supply store (take your existing converter and AP) and see if they can find a substitute.
Is this normal? I'm in the UKand have three things plugged into the electrical socket on the wall. The first is the actual power supply adapter of the router which is fine in terms of temperature. This power supply is plugged into the a travel adapter convertor block and this is one that is really hot...I cant touch the black area on of the convertor for more than a few seconds. Its a brown travel adapter block thing Its what converts the voltage or something tor the UK, I dont think it should be this hot right? Although it only is hot on the back strip of the actual adapter and not all of it is this hot. I guess the black part of it is covered in some kind of coating to help reduce the temperature? But I'm still worried that it way too hot as the black part cant be touched for more than a few seconds. The travel adapter convertor is plugged into a socket convertor because UK uses three inputs for the electrical socket rather than two like everywhere else. The rotuer is a D Link 108ag wireless and probably from america. Its working fine and the comp has been on 24/7 for three weeks now since getting the router. But is it dangerous?
Loads of places have provision for 3 connectors, it's for the earth which is essential with devices which can be made live. Pretty much anything metal. It also provides a safety feature since until the earth gate is opened, the live and neutral outlets are protected by a shutter.
I wouldn't worry about it getting hot, just check that everything is suited to the right voltage.
Ok I decided to order this from Amazon to replace the existing convertor im currently using which might be faulty. I did get it with the router though.
formatting link
Will that one be ok with the router?
On the power supply of the router it says: INPUT 100-120V-0.5A 50-60HZ OUTPUT: +5.0V---3A
Its not gonna work without the convertor right?
I'm relaly concerned about the temperature the one I ordered doesnt even have a black strip thing either.
Ok I decided to order this from Amazon to replace the existing convertor im currently using which might be faulty. I did get it with the router though.
formatting link
Will that one be ok with the router?
On the power supply of the router it says: INPUT 100-120V-0.5A 50-60HZ OUTPUT: +5.0V---3A
Its not gonna work without the convertor right?
I'm relaly concerned about the temperature the one I ordered doesnt even have a black strip thing either.
You will definitely still need the converter. If you're in the UK, go to Maplin and buy a switched mode PSU, sorry I didn't pay attention to what you had originally but here are some choices.
formatting link
There are others if you want a transformer based solution, I also like this type as then you can take it anywhere and it has replaceable plug bits
formatting link
Maplin are either mail order or you can go to a shop.
Probably not. There's no data on the current handling ability of that device. My guess, based on a similar unit that I own, is that it can only output about 1Amp maximum. You'll need about 2.5A rating for this to work. I went throught the entire Maplin web site and couldn't find anything that had the required current handling ability.
I dont understand why D-Link would supply this convertor with the router if it was not suitable? You say it will damage it but surely they would have known this? It is extremely hot on the black area of the convertor though maybe its just faulty?
That looks like it'll be fine, but PLEASE make sure you configure it properly for voltage, polarity, and plug type/style before connecting it to your router, or you may destroy the router.
If you have any questions after you've Read The Fine Manual, or are not exactly certain you've configured it right, please ask for advice before powering it up for the first time.
Once you've got it working, glue the plug adapter into position on the cord, so it doesn't fall off and get reassembled with the reverse polarity in the future.
Unfortunately, Maplin have done some wierd stuff with the website regarding specifications, like plastic boxes but with no dimentions. They'll tell me how much discount I get if I buy multiples but not the size of the box! I have the paper catalogue (which should be redundant but isn't).
Example choices are:-
PL61R 5V 2A PJ85G 5V 2.5A N92AT 5V 4A N93AA which is called "world wide digital camera adaptor" which is rated at 14.7VA max and does 5V (max is 7V @ 2.1A so on 5V should be fine)
The travel adaptor that Mohammed has ordered is rated at 1.6A with 240V input and 1.2A @ 110V input when providing 4.5V output.
I'm wondering if that 2.5A is actually what the router requires or whether the present PSU is just over rated.
Mohammed, if you want to, just return the one you've bought without opening or you could try it. If you want to return it, you have the legal right in the UK to do so within 7 days commencing the day after you receive the item. This is covered by the "Distance Selling Regulations". Note: The product wrapping must be unopened and you have to pay the return postage. However I think you'll find that this one comes in a box without shrink wrap. ;)
The short answer is NO. The kind of "converter" that you are using or intending to use is totally unsuitable for use with the plug pack type of power supply that you have with your router.
Electrically, the power supply is designed for alternating current as supplied from the power outlet. The "converter" effectively chops the mains voltage from the power outlet into 1/2 and by doing so, makes it more direct current (DC) rather than alternating current (AC) as required by the router power supply.
Continued use of such converters will damage the existing power supply by supplying the direct current to its internal transformer causing excessive overheating and no doubt, ultimately, a fire. The are designed for use with some electric shavers and small table lamps only. Note that their use in many countries is prohibited because of the safety risks that you are encountering.
Jeff and other above have advised correctly that you obtain a new and correct power supply for the router and do not use the existing power supply with a "converter". It is a very dangerous practice to continue. You are very lucky that you have not caused a serious fire by now with its use.
Again, DO NOT USE A "CONVERTER" WITH THE EXISTING POWER SUPPLY.
Does the "converter" have a D-Link branding label on it? I suspect not. Did you buy the router and converter together from a recognised D-Link agent in the U.K.? I suspect not. Legitimate D-Link suppliers in the UK would not supply such a unit and it is likely that someone may have brought them in from the USA quite independently. To the best of my knowledge, D-Link do not make or sell such a converter anywhere for that use.
Perhaps you should go back to your supplier and confront them with the facts that they have advised you totally incorrectly and even dangerously.
As before, DO NOT USE SUCH A CONVERTER, but get a correct supply for your router that is applicable for the mains voltage in the UK, preferably from a legitimate and knowledgable D-Link supplier.
The DI-624 does not draw 2.5A. That's the maximum rating of the power adapter. Most of these wireless router boxes burn about 10 watts which would make 2Amps a good guess. I don't think any of the 1.5 or
1.6A devices will work. It's also considered a bad idea to run the wall warts at maximum power as the xformer cores tend to saturate causing them to get rather hot.
Incidentally, the DI-624 has a reputation for getting rather hot inside.
formatting link
makes me suspect that it might burn even more than the usual 10 watts. Oh-oh.
That looks like a transformer instead of a resistor or diode. However, the eBay page does not specifically say it's a transformer. The other products offered are all transformers, so it's a fair bet that this is also one. The ad claims it works to 100watts so the 10 watt drain of the DI-624 should be easily handled. If it feels like it's made of iron or buzzes slightly, it's probably a transformer and should work just fine. The main test is does anything get hot or warm. If it's cold the way you describe, then it should work forever.
I wonder why they say it won't work with an x-box?
Yep. I have a "Kill-a-watt" contraption which is kinda handy.
formatting link
use it to measure the current drain of AC appliances including wall warts. My main interest is what do they draw when the device is OFF which is totally wasted power. Also the power factor on some cheezy UPS's make me ill. Right now, it's measuring the kw-hr use on my cheap new refridgerator.
I also have an assortment of USB and power extensions, with breaks in the power leads to allow me to measure the current drain with an amps guesser.
What's an SMPS? Oh, switch mode power supply. Yeah, that's the right idea for directly powering the DI-624 from the AC mains. However, he was looking for a "converter" and was not doing well on finding a suitable replacmenet wall wart. So, the "converter" should be a transformer, not a diode or dropping resistor.
Hell no. The ones that would tolerate a wide range of voltages were the Linksys WRT4G, WAP54G, and BEFW11S4. All of these will run on anything between about 4VDC and perhaps 18VDC. They have a nifty switching supply inside the box which allows this type of operation. I just happen to look at the guts of a DI-624 last week and noticed that it also had a switcher. However, it was a tiny little thing which made me worry about the range that it would handle. My guess is that it might go down to 4VDC, but I'm not sure how high it will go. I can trace out a schematic, but that would be too much work.
I just happen to have a Netgear ME102 in the pile. It's the original version with the added USB cable. The power supply is a switcher rated at 5VDC 1A. The guts are the same as a Linksys WAP11v1.1. I also have a DLinks DWL-900AP (no +) version A1, which is exactly the same guts, but with a much larger 5V 2A power adapter. I'll measure the drain when I have time.
It was Linksys. Use Google Groups search.
The connector on the ME102 is rather odd. You might have trouble finding a replacment. I don't wanna tear it apart quite yet (not sure who owns it yet) or experiment with it. Therefore, I suggest going with the stock replacement. Netgear P/N PWR-050-111 Model: ADP-5DB Delta Electronics: 91-56062 Input: AC 100-120V 14VA Output: 5V 1.0A All bets are off if you have a later version of the ME102 which probably has a different connector and possibly different adapter.
Cabling-Design.com Forums website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.