Assistance with DWL-2700A access point
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Posted by Bob on June 21, 2008, 9:32 am
Please log in for more thread options park. The owners are unhappy with the company that installed the unit and would like to sever their relationship. Thus, I was preparing to make a configuration manual (via screen shots) of the setup for their records. I believe the default IP address was changed to 192.168.0.2. However, attempting to login to the WEB interface from a Vista machine (wired connection or wireless) is not successful (Page not found error). I downloaded a setup program from D-Link. It finds the access point (when a wired connection is used, but not wireless) but will not permit access with the password that was given to the park owner. The owner suspects that the company changed the password the last time they were on site without telling the owner. Job Security! The password to the phone company DSL modem also doesn't work -- that one we can get back by reseting the modem. The downloaded manual says there is a reset button, however the D-Link WEB site indicates the only way to reset is via the WEB interface. In my case that is a chatch-22. The unit is mounted on a pole on the roof, so it not readily accessable. Read that: "I don't want to climb up on the roof if I don't have to." Any hints as to gaining access would be appreciated. TIA | ||||||||||||||||
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Posted by Jeff Liebermann on June 21, 2008, 7:53 pm
Please log in for more thread options Not too horrible a unit. It should work. <http://www.dlink.com/products/?pid=303>
Practice on the emulator before you destroy something: <http://support.dlink.com/Emulators/dwl2700ap_revb/html/index.htm>
>The owners are unhappy with the company that installed the unit
>and would like to sever their relationship. Ah yes. The divorce ceremony. Wear safety glasses and a helmet. >Thus, I was preparing to
>make a configuration manual (via screen shots) of the setup for their >records. I believe the default IP address was changed to 192.168.0.2. >However, attempting to login to the WEB interface from a Vista machine >(wired connection or wireless) is not successful (Page not found >error). I downloaded a setup program from D-Link. It finds the >access point (when a wired connection is used, but not wireless) but >will not permit access with the password that was given to the park >owner. The device is an access point, not a router. Access points do bridging (IP layer 2) and NOT routing (IP layer 3). You will not see the access point's IP address in any traffic that is not specifically directed at the access point. My guess(tm) it was left at the default IP of 192.168.0.10. Try it. >The owner suspects that the company changed the password the last time
>they were on site without telling the owner. Job Security! The >password to the phone company DSL modem also doesn't work -- that one >we can get back by reseting the modem. I do that even to my best customers. All of them seem to have friends and relatives that are hackers. If I'm expected to guarantee reliable service, I also have to protect the system against friends and relatives as well as hackers. The password to your unspecified model DSL modem is usually printed on the bottom of the modem. If it's an AT&T system, which uses SpeedSteam 4100 DSL modems, the password can be changed. However, you will need to reset the modem to defaults in order to use the printed password. Perhaps it would helpful if you would kindly describe the system and all it hardware and software. DO *NOT* try to configure the DWL-2600 via a wireless connection. Not only does it often screwup, cause a disconnect, or otherwise ruin my day, but admin access via wireless can be blocked. That might be what's happening to you. Find a cheap ethernet 10/100 switch and stuff it between the DSL modem and the DWL-2600. Plug in your Vista nightmare laptop. All the lights should indicate a connection. Now try http://192.168.0.10 or whatever. If you can't get a web page, look on the DWL-2600 for the MAC address. You can miss it although it might look like a serial number. If your Vista hasn't crashed, try: Start -> Run -> cmd <enter>
to get to the DOS prompt. Then run:
arp -s 192.168.0.99 00-aa-00-aa-00-aa That sets the IP address of 192.168.0.99 to the MAC address of the DWL-2600. Then try: http://192.168.0.99 There are a few other things that may screw this up, but if you've made the appropriate sacrifices to the wireless gods before starting, it usually works. >The downloaded manual says there is a reset button, however the D-Link
>WEB site indicates the only way to reset is via the WEB interface. In >my case that is a chatch-22. The unit is mounted on a pole on the >roof, so it not readily accessable. Read that: "I don't want to climb >up on the roof if I don't have to." That's what kids are for. Kids are ideal for suicidal repair jobs and futile efforts. They don't know any better, are comparatively cheap to hire, and are somewhat expendable. Of course, it might be easier to lower the pole than to raise the kids, but I'll leave you with the obvious decision. What's more important? Wireless connectivity or the life of the neighbors obnoxious brat? If undecided, I suggest the software reset route. >Any hints as to gaining access would be appreciated. TIA
Is the system currently working and functional? If so, an IP scanner will find the device. The DWL-2600 MAC address starts with 00:15:e9 so that should help. I suggest the command line version of NMAP at: <http://nmap.org>
Running NMAP on my office network: C:\Nmap>nmap -sP 192.168.111.*
Starting Nmap 4.01 ( http://www.insecure.org/nmap ) at 2008-06-21 16:46 Pacific Daylight Time Host router (192.168.111.1) appears to be up. MAC Address: 00:13:10:8C:14:A9 (Cisco-Linksys) Host 192.168.111.2 appears to be up. MAC Address: 00:00:C0:9F:FF:11 (Western Digital) Host SLOTH (192.168.111.9) appears to be up. Host ZULIMDG9P3041 (192.168.111.185) appears to be up. MAC Address: 00:0C:F1:8A:34:FC (Intel) Nmap finished: 256 IP addresses (4 hosts up) scanned in 7.171 seconds Yeah, I know it's an old version. There's also a Windoze version that is probably easier to use, but I'm too lazy to try it. -- # Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060 # 831-336-2558 jeffl@comix.santa-cruz.ca.us # http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com # http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS | ||||||||||||||||
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Posted by Jeff Liebermann on June 22, 2008, 11:36 am
Please log in for more thread options wrote:
>That one doesn't look like the installed modem, this is the one we
>have >http://www.qwest.com/internethelp/modems/2wire2701/index.html?option=installation Ooops. I didn't know that Quest had switched vendors to 2wire routers. My appologies. That makes more sense as to the NMAP returns. 2wire makes (IMHO) very good products and is the only product line that is secure by default instead of wide open. The router password is on a yellow sticker on the 2701HG. <http://www.2wire.com/?p=106>
Incidentally, the Wi-Fi xmitter power output is 400mw, which 10 times
what a typical wireless router outputs. It also has 3 antennas. Two for diversity receive and a seperate antenna for xmit. Seems to work quite well. >If I do a reset button, it will reset to the default setting,
>including having no Qwest account setting. I know the account name, >but I'm not sure the owner has the account password. If the owner does not have the account password, the best he can do is get it changed. Most ISP's do not store and record customer passwords for obvious security reasons. If Quest is anything like PBI/SBC/AT&T on the left coast, you can do the whole thing over the phone without talking to India, using the IVR (interactive voice response) support system. >That isn't hard
>to get from Qwest (we just haven't done it yet as we are not sure that >the problem is really Qwest's.) You should have the password anyway. It's apparently now your system. >>I'm not sure exactly what's going on here. Methinks you'll have to
>>use the NMAP scan trick. >Apparently you were reading Top Down. To be expected.
Actually, I bounce around considerably, reply in stages, forget what I previous wrote, hate to read my own drivel, and generally reply in a disorganized manner. In this case, it was 102F at my house, so I decided to spend the afternoon in my palatial and air conditioned office. My reply was assembled in approximately 5 short sessions while I waited for Windoze (yawn) to update, reboot, scan, or otherwise waste my time. If my ranting seems a bit disjointed, my appologies, but I don't have the time to reply in one session. >Then a10/12 INCH Cat5 cable to a small
>rectangular aluminium box. I assume (you know what that means -- >ass-u-me). "Assumption, the mother of all screwups". (Me, about 1971, running for my life, after making a very bad assumption). This one perhaps? <http://www.dlink.com/products/?sec=0&pid=368>
The DWL-2700 supports 802.3af PoE and does not specifically require a
Dlink PoE box. It can be anyones. If it has a wall wart coming out of the box, and the wall wart says 48VDC, then it's probably a real 802.3af power injector. However, if the wall power supply says 12VDC or something else, I would be seriously suspicious of its quality and function. >that this is some kind of lightning protection box since it
>has, what appears to be, a ground connection. However, there isn't a >ground attached. UGH! Then they connect the cable going outside to >the D-Link(down through the floor). The owner paid how much to have this done to them? I'm not very familiar with Florida weather, but I do read that you have a potential lightning problem. While this "protector" (probably just a PoE injector) will probably not survive a direct hit, a bit of grounding might be useful. >Two things that bother me. No actual ground and the short
>interconnect cable. If there are ethernet transceivers inside that >box, then the 10" cable is way too short. Nope. I have CAT5 jumpers that are 4" long, that work fine. You're thinking of the bad old days of 10base2 (coax cheapernet) that had a minimum cable length limitation, that would not work with T connectors spaced less than about 2ft apart. 10baseT and 100baseT do not have this problem and can use cables as short as can be crimped. A clue is that the average ethernet switch INTERNALLY has CAT5 connections about 1/2" apart. >I'm going to replace with a
>longer one as a test. As a test, I'm also going to totally remove the >aluminium box from the circuit. It probably won't work. My guess(tm) is that it has the PoE injector circuitry inside. >I'm at a disadvantage here, I'm located about 400 feet from the
>office, which is not always open. By the time, I get there and locate >the owner, the problem is over. I'm going to have the owner turn the >Qwest modem around physically, so that I can see the lights through a >nearby window. Run some temporary CAT5 cable between the 2701HG and your computah. Take the wireless out of the picture. (Note: I've gone considerably farther than 400ft so don't worry about CAT5 cable length). Monitor the 2701HG ADSL connection *AND* the DWL-2700 signal quality web pages. In other words, try to isolate the exact location of the disconnects. You might also wanna try your microwave oven to see if you can detect it on the DWL-2700 signal quality indication. >I put the modem and the access point on a UPS on Wednesday -- and yes
>it works -- we had a power glitch and it stayed up this time. A week >ago we had a power glitch and it was down for hours -- partially our >fault and partially Qwest (they were out over a wide area around >here). Once you establish connectivity to both devices, methinks you need to do some monitoring. Since you're addicted to free software, I sugges Free Ping: <http://www.tools4ever.com/products/free/freeping/>
Set it up to monitor connectivity to:
1. The 2701HG router 2. The DWL-2700 access point 3. The ISP's internet gateway IP 4. Some nearby web site on the internet. That will give you a good clue as to what actually happens when it disconnects. At this point, we only have my admittedly marginal guesswork as to the where the disconnects are happening. While wireless inteference is the most likely culprit, there are plenty of other things that could go wrong. Incidentally, I spent about 15 minutes listening to a customers expert detail why my wireless installation was defective and unreliable. A few minutes later, I had found that he had set the router to disconnect from the ISP after about 1 minute of inactivity. The ISP's authentication servers was overloaded and would frequently fail to authorize and authenticate, resulting in a fairly good simulation of an unreliable wireless system. As I mumbled, "Assumption, the mother of all screwups". >According the emulator screens this unit keeps some loging
>information. In the sample, there was a listing about loosing >connection with ethernet ports. That is what pointed me into getting >into the access point. Good plan. Reading log files is a great way to do troubleshooting. I have a somewhat different style, but I eventually get around to inspecting the logs. The problem is that the log files rarely disclose the cause of a problem, only the effect on the device. >A hint please as to a good Syslog server, preferably free -- I'm
>cheap. Free Syslog server: <http://www.kiwisyslog.com/kiwi-syslog-daemon-overview/>
Note that the DWL-2700 supports SNMP. It's on the Tools -> Administrator Settings -> SNMP
pull down menu. You might want to try SNMP monitoring using PRTG:
<http://www.paessler.com/prtg>
The free version only allows monitoring 3 OID's (object identifiers)
but will be good enough for monitoring traffic, signal strength, and whatever else the DWL-2700 offers. You might need the 802.11-MIB. I archive it at: <http://www.LearnByDestroying.com/crud/IEEE802dot11-MIB.my>
There are plenty of other SNMP MIB browsers and monitors to choose
from. However, learning to use SNMP at this point is probably a major distraction and should be avoided. The PRTG demo program should be sufficient to get something running quickly. Ask if you want more on SNMP. >I have a Toshiba laptop with a switch that I used to trun off the
>WiFi. Remember that I was able to get to the Qwest modem setup pages >when I was wired to the modem port 3. But not to the D-link. You should be able to get to the web servers on both devices. If not, this should be investigated. The IP addresses (and MAC addresses) are now known, so there should be no problem. Start with ping. If that doesn't work, HTTP probably won't. Look for configuration or wiring problems. Avoid doing troubleshooting via wireless at this point. >When we loose connection, I can, from the wireless side) successfully
>ping the D-Link but not the modem. Thus, my conclusion that there is >something a rye between the two units. Agreed. It can also be something causing the DWL-2700 to hang or go insane. Power cycling the DWL-2700 might bring it back. The 10 minute delay might be the time needed for some kind of watchdog timer to realize that the DWL-2700 is hung, and to reboot it. I didn't see any evidence of this in the DWL-2700 setup, but it is a common feature in allegedly high uptime devices. >Do you know if the D-Link supplied 30m cable had connectors
>pre-installed. The run from the POE box to the antenna is within 30 >meters. However, I didn't see any extra cable coiled up. It is >possible that it is under the floor. Dunno and I doubt it. DLink sells boxes, not cables. If the PoE injector does NOT say DLink on the box, then it's likely that the service company assembled their own cables, connectors, and accessories. If they crimped their own connectors, a bad crimp job is a real possibility. Since the CAT5 cable goes through the floor, you might have vermin chewing on the cable. I kinda like the "pull test". I pull on both ends. If the cable falls apart, it's bad. >Just thought, what if the
>installation company put on new connectors and didn't do a good job. I >think that I'll take my crimping tool up and apply some more pressure. >Can't hurt. (Let's hope that this isn't the problem and it isn't the >connector up on the pole. UGH! Unplug the PoE injector power supply before you do that. Re-crimping a bad connector is worth doing. However, my attitute is that if I have to go through all that trouble, I might as well chop it off and replace it with a connector that I know works. I've had lots of issues with users installing RJ45 connectors made for stranded wire, on solid CAT5 wires. That doesn't work and *WILL* be intermittent. Also, if you're going to be working with CAT5, spend the money and get a decent _ratcheting_ crimper and a continuity tester. You don't really need a cable certifier if you're not doing this professionally. Total cost is about $80 for both. Look for a "network cable tester" with 8/9 lights, not 4. Also, avoid cheap crimpers that look like a nut cracker. Bug me if you want recommendations. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 | ||||||||||||||||
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Posted by Bob on June 22, 2008, 1:23 pm
Please log in for more thread options wrote:
>wrote:
> >>That one doesn't look like the installed modem, this is the one we
>>have >>http://www.qwest.com/internethelp/modems/2wire2701/index.html?option=installation >
>Ooops. I didn't know that Quest had switched vendors to 2wire >routers. My appologies. That makes more sense as to the NMAP >returns. 2wire makes (IMHO) very good products and is the only >product line that is secure by default instead of wide open. The >router password is on a yellow sticker on the 2701HG. ><http://www.2wire.com/?p=106> >Incidentally, the Wi-Fi xmitter power output is 400mw, which 10 times >what a typical wireless router outputs. It also has 3 antennas. Two >for diversity receive and a seperate antenna for xmit. Seems to work >quite well. > >>If I do a reset button, it will reset to the default setting,
>>including having no Qwest account setting. I know the account name, >>but I'm not sure the owner has the account password. >
>If the owner does not have the account password, the best he can do is >get it changed. Most ISP's do not store and record customer passwords >for obvious security reasons. If Quest is anything like PBI/SBC/AT&T >on the left coast, you can do the whole thing over the phone without >talking to India, using the IVR (interactive voice response) support >system. I have the same Qwest modem at home and when I lost my configuration book, which had the account password in it, I called Qwest and asked for the account password. After a few questions to verify I was who I said I was, they gave me the password for the account. I didn't ask for the LAN side password as I knew it. >
>>That isn't hard
>>to get from Qwest (we just haven't done it yet as we are not sure that >>the problem is really Qwest's.) >
We will do this. It is only a matter of time before we will need it.
>You should have the password anyway. It's apparently now your system. >
>>>I'm not sure exactly what's going on here. Methinks you'll have to
>>>use the NMAP scan trick. >
>>Apparently you were reading Top Down. To be expected.
>
>Actually, I bounce around considerably, reply in stages, forget what I >previous wrote, hate to read my own drivel, and generally reply in a >disorganized manner. In this case, it was 102F at my house, so I >decided to spend the afternoon in my palatial and air conditioned >office. My reply was assembled in approximately 5 short sessions >while I waited for Windoze (yawn) to update, reboot, scan, or >otherwise waste my time. If my ranting seems a bit disjointed, my >appologies, but I don't have the time to reply in one session. > >>Then a10/12 INCH Cat5 cable to a small
>>rectangular aluminium box. I assume (you know what that means -- >>ass-u-me). >
The wall wart is a 48 volt unit and according to D-Link's downloaded
>"Assumption, the mother of all screwups". (Me, about 1971, running >for my life, after making a very bad assumption). > >This one perhaps? ><http://www.dlink.com/products/?sec=0&pid=368> >The DWL-2700 supports 802.3af PoE and does not specifically require a >Dlink PoE box. It can be anyones. If it has a wall wart coming out >of the box, and the wall wart says 48VDC, then it's probably a real >802.3af power injector. However, if the wall power supply says 12VDC >or something else, I would be seriously suspicious of its quality and >function. manual, page4 the DWL-2700A, the package contains: D-Link AirPremierTM DWL-2700AP Wireless G Outdoor AP/Bridge Eight screws & one rubber ring Two rubber dipole antennas Manual on CD Quick Installation Guide 2 Mounting Kits PoE base unit Power adapter Power cord RF jumper cable Grounding wire Surge arrestor 30m Ethernet cabler The photo shows the cable coiled up -- probably without connectors. >
>>that this is some kind of lightning protection box since it
>>has, what appears to be, a ground connection. However, there isn't a >>ground attached. UGH! Then they connect the cable going outside to >>the D-Link(down through the floor). >
A little over $1.5k
>The owner paid how much to have this done to them? > I'm not very
Not in Florida -- try NM.
>familiar with Florida weather, > but I do read that you have a potential
There are 2 boxes, the protector and the injector.
>lightning problem. While this "protector" (probably just a PoE >injector) will probably not survive a direct hit, a bit of grounding >might be useful. >
>>Two things that bother me. No actual ground and the short
>>interconnect cable. If there are ethernet transceivers inside that >>box, then the 10" cable is way too short. >
>Nope. I have CAT5 jumpers that are 4" long, that work fine. You're >thinking of the bad old days of 10base2 (coax cheapernet) that had a >minimum cable length limitation, that would not work with T connectors >spaced less than about 2ft apart. 10baseT and 100baseT do not have >this problem and can use cables as short as can be crimped. A clue is >that the average ethernet switch INTERNALLY has CAT5 connections about >1/2" apart. > >>I'm going to replace with a
>>longer one as a test. As a test, I'm also going to totally remove the >>aluminium box from the circuit. >
If so, why the seperate POE box?
>It probably won't work. My guess(tm) is that it has the PoE injector >circuitry inside. >
>>I'm at a disadvantage here, I'm located about 400 feet from the
>>office, which is not always open. By the time, I get there and locate >>the owner, the problem is over. I'm going to have the owner turn the >>Qwest modem around physically, so that I can see the lights through a >>nearby window. >
Don't have that much cable with me.
>Run some temporary CAT5 cable between the 2701HG and your computah. >Take the wireless out of the picture. (Note: I've gone considerably >farther than 400ft so don't worry about CAT5 cable length). > Monitor
>the 2701HG ADSL connection *AND* the DWL-2700 signal quality web >pages. In other words, try to isolate the exact location of the >disconnects. You might also wanna try your microwave oven to see if >you can detect it on the DWL-2700 signal quality indication. > >>I put the modem and the access point on a UPS on Wednesday -- and yes
>>it works -- we had a power glitch and it stayed up this time. A week >>ago we had a power glitch and it was down for hours -- partially our >>fault and partially Qwest (they were out over a wide area around >>here). >
I don't think this is the case here as I have watched the Qwest modem
>Once you establish connectivity to both devices, methinks you need to >do some monitoring. Since you're addicted to free software, I sugges >Free Ping: ><http://www.tools4ever.com/products/free/freeping/> >Set it up to monitor connectivity to: >1. The 2701HG router >2. The DWL-2700 access point >3. The ISP's internet gateway IP >4. Some nearby web site on the internet. >That will give you a good clue as to what actually happens when it >disconnects. At this point, we only have my admittedly marginal >guesswork as to the where the disconnects are happening. While >wireless inteference is the most likely culprit, there are plenty of >other things that could go wrong. > >Incidentally, I spent about 15 minutes listening to a customers expert >detail why my wireless installation was defective and unreliable. A >few minutes later, I had found that he had set the router to >disconnect from the ISP after about 1 minute of inactivity. The ISP's >authentication servers was overloaded and would frequently fail to >authorize and authenticate, resulting in a fairly good simulation of >an unreliable wireless system. As I mumbled, "Assumption, the mother >of all screwups". for quite a while and I've never seen it disconnect. >
>>According the emulator screens this unit keeps some loging
>>information. In the sample, there was a listing about loosing >>connection with ethernet ports. That is what pointed me into getting >>into the access point. >
>Good plan. Reading log files is a great way to do troubleshooting. I >have a somewhat different style, but I eventually get around to >inspecting the logs. The problem is that the log files rarely >disclose the cause of a problem, only the effect on the device. > >>A hint please as to a good Syslog server, preferably free -- I'm
>>cheap. >
I take it this is on the DWL-2700A page, if so, I can't get there yet,
>Free Syslog server: ><http://www.kiwisyslog.com/kiwi-syslog-daemon-overview/> > >Note that the DWL-2700 supports SNMP. It's on the > Tools -> Administrator Settings -> SNMP but good to know. >pull down menu. You might want to try SNMP monitoring using PRTG:
><http://www.paessler.com/prtg> >The free version only allows monitoring 3 OID's (object identifiers) >but will be good enough for monitoring traffic, signal strength, and >whatever else the DWL-2700 offers. You might need the 802.11-MIB. I >archive it at: ><http://www.LearnByDestroying.com/crud/IEEE802dot11-MIB.my> >There are plenty of other SNMP MIB browsers and monitors to choose >from. However, learning to use SNMP at this point is probably a major >distraction and should be avoided. The PRTG demo program should be >sufficient to get something running quickly. Ask if you want more on >SNMP. > >>I have a Toshiba laptop with a switch that I used to trun off the
>>WiFi. Remember that I was able to get to the Qwest modem setup pages >>when I was wired to the modem port 3. But not to the D-link. >
This is the major task at the moment.
>You should be able to get to the web servers on both devices. If not, >this should be investigated. > The IP addresses (and MAC addresses) are
Pinging the D-Link works both from the wired side and the wireless
>now known, so there should be no problem. Start with ping. If that >doesn't work, side, but HTTP doesn't work from either side. > HTTP probably won't. Look for configuration or wiring
>problems. Avoid doing troubleshooting via wireless at this point. > >>When we loose connection, I can, from the wireless side) successfully
>>ping the D-Link but not the modem. Thus, my conclusion that there is >>something a rye between the two units. >
Done that several time, fixes it most of the time, but the problem
>Agreed. It can also be something causing the DWL-2700 to hang or go >insane. Power cycling the DWL-2700 might bring it back. will reoccur again several hours later. > The 10
>minute delay might be the time needed for some kind of watchdog timer >to realize that the DWL-2700 is hung, and to reboot it. I didn't see >any evidence of this in the DWL-2700 setup, but it is a common feature >in allegedly high uptime devices. > >>Do you know if the D-Link supplied 30m cable had connectors
>>pre-installed. The run from the POE box to the antenna is within 30 >>meters. However, I didn't see any extra cable coiled up. It is >>possible that it is under the floor. >
It does
>Dunno and I doubt it. DLink sells boxes, not cables. If the PoE >injector does NOT say DLink on the box, >then it's likely that the
Good point. The building is a double wide mobile home. I haven't
>service company assembled their own cables, connectors, and >accessories. If they crimped their own connectors, a bad crimp job is >a real possibility. Since the CAT5 cable goes through the floor, you >might have vermin chewing on the cable. investigated where the cable comes out on the back side of the building (where the DWL-2700A is pole mounted). >I kinda like the "pull test".
>I pull on both ends. If the cable falls apart, it's bad. > >>Just thought, what if the
>>installation company put on new connectors and didn't do a good job. I >>think that I'll take my crimping tool up and apply some more pressure. >>Can't hurt. (Let's hope that this isn't the problem and it isn't the >>connector up on the pole. UGH! >
I was going to compeletly remove the cables.
>Unplug the PoE injector power supply before you do that. >
I have both the crimping tool and the tester. I just haven't doug
>Re-crimping a bad connector is worth doing. However, my attitute is >that if I have to go through all that trouble, I might as well chop it >off and replace it with a connector that I know works. I've had lots >of issues with users installing RJ45 connectors made for stranded >wire, on solid CAT5 wires. That doesn't work and *WILL* be >intermittent. > >Also, if you're going to be working with CAT5, spend the money and get >a decent _ratcheting_ crimper and a continuity tester. them out of the trailer storage tool box yet. Now on my ToDo list for today. > You don't
>really need a cable certifier if you're not doing this professionally. >Total cost is about $80 for both. Look for a "network cable tester" >with 8/9 lights, not 4. Also, avoid cheap crimpers that look like a >nut cracker. Bug me if you want recommendations. Would you please check your email account, as I sent some additional (none public) information directly to you. Thanks, Bob | ||||||||||||||||
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| Need an access point | April 5, 2005, 1:25 pm |
| When to use an access point? | May 31, 2005, 7:15 am |
| Access Point | June 7, 2005, 1:17 am |
| Access Point | August 11, 2005, 12:33 pm |
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