Want to Use Existing House Wiring ... however a simple test fails

I've just signed-up with Sunrocket (too early to give an accurate opinion, but so far no problems (knock wood!)) and would like to eventually use the existing house wiring.

As a simple test, I first wanted to see and expected the "gizmo" (what sunrocket calls the device) would work if I plug two separate phones into the single gizmo jack using a dual phone jack adapter. But both phones didn't work! If I unplug either one of them from the adapter, the connected phone works.

The reason I'm testing in this way is because I ultimately would like to use the existing house wiring (yes I know I would need to make sure the house wiring is no longer connected to the land-based provider). So I thought a simple test like I described above would work.

Note: I know the dual jack adapter is working fine, as well both phones because I'm still able to test this configuration on my landline phone (landline service hasn't been cancelled yet).

All I'm basically doing is "splitting" the phone line connected to the gizmo and attaching two separate phones, and expecting both phones to work. What am I missing here in my assumption ??????

Reply to
cpurvis3
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I'm simply testing for a dial tone in both phones. It's funny, but if I disconnect the cable going from the gizmo to the comcast HS modem, then reconnect the cable, for a brief period (5 - 10 seconds) I get dial tones in both phones.

I've seen/read in other post that they have a similiar configuration (i.e. - splitter from the gizmo to two phones) with no problems.

Can it be with the gizmo itself? Could it be that I need to simply "reset" the gizmo by some orderly combination of diconnecting the power, cable to HS modem, etc.? Could the provider (i.e. - Sunrocket) somehow have some kind of control over this? I hope not!!

If it is the REN # of the gizmo (1st I ever heard of this), how do i get this value (call support?). How do I go about getting the REN of my indiviual phones?

Reply to
cpurvis3

Are you testing by "dial tone" or by an incoming "ring?" If the latter, you will need to know the REN (ringer equivalent number) of your "gizmo" (normally called an ATA (analog telephone adapter)) AND the REN of your various phones which must total less than the gizmo REN.

Reply to
Rick Merrill

I think I resolved it (but still don't know the true total REN values or how to determine it) !!!!

It turns out the 2nd phone (an older model) I was test splitting with, it appears, was drawing some kind of additional voltage - just enough to put my test over the limit. Funny thing is, the only other phone I ultimately wanted to connect to my VOLP system with in the house - which is a talking caller id phone with message capability - appears to work with the VOLP system. I would of thought this phone would not pass the test, thus I didn't originally attempt it.

So what I plan to do is buy 1 or two more expandable phones (for a total of 3 or 4) and add my Caller ID phone.

IF this all works, my only other question has to deal with how/which phone I will use to capture incoming messages. I don't think I can use both.

Reply to
cpurvis3

REN:: the phone (or modem) is required by law to have the REN number printed or embossed on it, usually on the bottom. The problem is that the ATA is not requied to tell you what REN it supports.

Reply to
Rick Merrill

Rick -

The REN for my two phones I intend to use are ...

1.) Uniden 2.4 Ghz expandable - REN = 0.0B 2.) Panasonic Talking Caller Id - REN = 0.1B

Thus the total REN = 0.1 B (whatever the "B" means)

Sunrocket's response to their gizmo REN value was to not exceed 4.0, thus I'm in good shape.

Just a few more questions: a.) What's the "B" stand for ? b.) What are some typical REN ranges for some phones. I would of thought a new phone to have a higher value, but it seems the opposite - some of my old laying-around-the-basement phones may have high REN values - what's your take?

Reply to
cpurvis3

You ARE in good shape. (that 0.0 is dubious however: 0.2?) AND the REN only affects the "ring". FYI: In the United States 1 REN is equivalent to a 6930 ohm resistor in series with an 8 µF ( microfarad) capacitor. In Europe 1 REN is equivalent to a 1800 ohm resistor in series with an 1 µF capacitor. (Source: partly from Federal Standard 1037C) [No, I didn't know that; google/wikipedia did!-]

Reply to
Rick Merrill

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What does the B or A after an REN mean?

I think I covered this in an earlier posting, but then I could have glossed over it. The letter at the end of the REN numbers covers the "Ringing type" from the notorious Table I. A Ringing type A ringer is sensitive to 20 Hz +-3 and 30 Hz +-3. A B type ringer is sensitive to AC voltage between 15.3 and 68.0 Hz. Just for the curious, a C type ringer is sensitive between 15.3 and 17.4 Hz. There are many classes of ringers. I know that the class is supposed to refer to the frequency coverage, but owing to obscurity in the FCC regs, some labs measure type B ringers (Electronic warble type) as a type A so they can get a lower REN.

This does not make it a type A ringer. This makes it a type B ringer measured as a type B. Apart from type B, other ringers cover a narrow frequency range. This frequency selectivity is sometimes used with party lines. It is also one of the factors that limits bell tap in US phones. See an earlier posting of mine where I waffle about this. Yes, most Type B ringers will also respond to frequencies above 68 Hz, like

100 Hz.
Reply to
R-Guy

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