What is the "Proper" way to attach lead wire to in wall wire

Hi:

I'm pre-wiring my house, and have a 16/2 homerun wire to each of my doors. My exterior doors are hung. I have recessed magnetic switches, Senco

1125W-N, that I would like to install now, before the drywall and moldings are in place.

I can think of a dozen ways to connect the 12 inch lead wires to the cable, but what is the "proper" way to make the connection?

I have not decided on the actual alarm system yet. Do I need to add a resister to the ends of the cable where the switches are? If resisters are needed, can they be connected to the end of the wire inside the control box? Each cable is connected to only one switch, except the double French door. I will put a switch in for each door in series.

Seems like information I should be able to find published, but I've searched the web and many books from the library. I can't find exact instructions on the correct way to connect the cable to the lead wires.

Thanks, John

Reply to
Artistry
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Opps, I mean 2 / 22 wire.

Thanks, John

Reply to
Artistry

inline...

Glad you amended that in your second post, 'cause you'd hate yourself when trying to connect 16/2 to a switch in a 3/8" recessed door hole! Methods to connect: Solder & Heat Shrink - if you have time, this is the best Dry B-Beans Gel filled B-Beans Where we are we NEVER use tape, the heat makes the tape fall off or move. Better yet use switches that have micro-screw terminals!

| | I can think of a dozen ways to connect the 12 inch lead wires to the cable, | but what is the "proper" way to make the connection? | | I have not decided on the actual alarm system yet. Do I need to add a | resister to the ends of the cable where the switches are? If resisters are | needed, can they be connected to the end of the wire inside the control box? | Each cable is connected to only one switch, except the double French door. | I will put a switch in for each door in series.

Technically the resistors belong at the end of the line...at the device. But if you dont know what panel you are going to install you won't know what resistor value to put out there. Also, you won't know where to put them if you are looping doors/windows in the same zone - you only put one resistor per zone. If all your doors/windows will be on a separate zone then you would need one at each.

Although I am tempted, I will refrain from starting the great-eol-discussion :-)

| | Seems like information I should be able to find published, but I've searched | the web and many books from the library. I can't find exact instructions on | the correct way to connect the cable to the lead wires.

No doubt.

| | Thanks, | John | |

Reply to
Crash Gordon

Great!

All my soldering equipment is in storage, hence the need to build a new house. This FINALLY gives me a justification to purchase one of those cordless Cold Heat soldering tools.

I personally could not think of anything that would be as reliable, but I thought that the industry would have adopted a less time consuming method.

I didn?t recognize the phrases, ?Dry B-Beans,? or ?Gel filled B-Beans?. I googled them with unrelated results.

I?m not familiar with the ?the great-eol-discussion?, but it sounds like the contentious, ?should totals be at the top of a spread sheet column, or at the bottom of the column? debate. I looked in our company?s professionally installed alarm system?s control box. There I saw a mess of loose and connected wires, some with dangling resisters, and others without.

I very much appreciate your response. It will be applied tonight.

Thanks, John

great-eol-discussion

instructions

Reply to
Artistry

inline...

It would be a good excuse to buy a new tool, but you can solder with a match or butane lighter if you're careful. But use heatshrink tubing not tape.

| | I personally could not think of anything that would be as reliable, but I | thought that the industry would have adopted a less time consuming method. | | I didn?t recognize the phrases, ?Dry B-Beans,? or ?Gel filled B-Beans?. I | googled them with unrelated results.

Formal name: B-Connectors, we call them beanies. The dry ones, are just that...dry inside. The jelly ones have a gel inside to prevent corrosion.

formatting link
These are very overpriced...just wanted to show ya what they look like.

| | I?m not familiar with the ?the great-eol-discussion?, but it sounds like the | contentious, ?should totals be at the top of a spread sheet column, or at | the bottom of the column? debate. I looked in our company?s professionally | installed alarm system?s control box. There I saw a mess of loose and | connected wires, some with dangling resisters, and others without.

Yah, that would get the discussion going...end of line resistor in the panel instead of out where they belong. Personally, I use a balance of in panel, and eol...but sshhhh!

| >

| >

| > Glad you amended that in your second post, 'cause you'd hate yourself when | > trying to connect 16/2 to a switch in a 3/8" recessed door hole! | > Methods to connect: | > Solder & Heat Shrink - if you have time, this is the best | > Dry B-Beans | > Gel filled B-Beans | > Where we are we NEVER use tape, the heat makes the tape fall off or move. | > Better yet use switches that have micro-screw terminals! | >

| > | | > | I can think of a dozen ways to connect the 12 inch lead wires to the | > cable, | > | but what is the "proper" way to make the connection? | > | | > | I have not decided on the actual alarm system yet. Do I need to add a | > | resister to the ends of the cable where the switches are? If resisters | > are | > | needed, can they be connected to the end of the wire inside the control | > box? | > | Each cable is connected to only one switch, except the double French | door. | > | I will put a switch in for each door in series. | >

| > Technically the resistors belong at the end of the line...at the device. | But | > if you dont know what panel you are going to install you won't know what | > resistor value to put out there. Also, you won't know where to put them if | > you are looping doors/windows in the same zone - you only put one resistor | > per zone. If all your doors/windows will be on a separate zone then you | > would need one at each. | >

| > Although I am tempted, I will refrain from starting the | great-eol-discussion | > :-) | >

| > | | > | Seems like information I should be able to find published, but I've | > searched | > | the web and many books from the library. I can't find exact | instructions | > on | > | the correct way to connect the cable to the lead wires. | >

| > No doubt. | >

| > | | > | Thanks, | > | John | > | | > | | >

| >

| |

Reply to
Crash Gordon

First of all, don't buy the Cold Heat tool. It's a toy. If you insist on a portable soldering iron, get one that runs on butane. However, if all you want to do is solder contacts to wire, just buy a disposable butane lighter, preferably with an adjustable flame. Before you start talking about cold solder joints, realize that a butane flame is considerably hotter than the tip of a soldering iron. Plus, a butane lighter fits in your pocket, and cools down almost instantly. Stagger the splices to minimize the overall diameter of the splice, i.e., don't put the two splices side by side.

I'm an old-timer, so I prefer solder and tape. If you want to look at solderless connectors that are widely used in the alarm industry, search on the term "B wire connector." That's the term Western Electric used when they invented them. They don't stuff up a small hole nearly as nicely as a soldered, staggered splice.

- badenov

Reply to
Nomen Nescio

They do if you bend them a little...but screw terminal stubbies are the way to go.

| >I personally could not think of anything that would be as reliable, but I | >thought that the industry would have adopted a less time consuming method. | >

| >I didn't recognize the phrases, "Dry B-Beans," or "Gel filled B-Beans". I | >googled them with unrelated results. | | First of all, don't buy the Cold Heat tool. It's a toy. If you insist on | a portable soldering iron, get one that runs on butane. However, if all | you want to do is solder contacts to wire, just buy a disposable butane | lighter, preferably with an adjustable flame. Before you start talking | about cold solder joints, realize that a butane flame is considerably | hotter than the tip of a soldering iron. Plus, a butane lighter fits in | your pocket, and cools down almost instantly. Stagger the splices to | minimize the overall diameter of the splice, i.e., don't put the two | splices side by side. | | I'm an old-timer, so I prefer solder and tape. If you want to look at | solderless connectors that are widely used in the alarm industry, search on | the term "B wire connector." That's the term Western Electric used when | they invented them. They don't stuff up a small hole nearly as nicely as a | soldered, staggered splice. | | - badenov |

Reply to
Crash Gordon

Now you're talkin'!!! GRI rules!

Reply to
Frank Olson

Well worth the extra few cents paid, for the time saved. That's all I use now, unless I absolutely need leads now. Trying to fish beanies up into a

3/8" hole above your head with bifocals on is a bitch!!

The ONLY complaint I have is that the ridges don't bite into the wood enough, so if your 3/8" hole is a "ch" bigger you have a loose contact to deal with.

Reply to
Crash Gordon

I carry a roll of "33" vinyl electrical tape with me for that problem. = usually one wrap will add enough to the diameter to seat in the hole.

Reply to
Tommy

When you live in an oven....

Reply to
Tommy

Tape melts out here, I find that papertape (the blue painter's stuff) works ok...or a flat wood toothpick.

"Tommy" wrote in message news:4526515d$0$19714$ snipped-for-privacy@free.teranews.com... I carry a roll of "33" vinyl electrical tape with me for that problem. usually one wrap will add enough to the diameter to seat in the hole.

Reply to
Crash Gordon

I remember Bob La Londe posting a message about two years ago where he was servicing a client's system and a dead scorpion falls out of the can. That, my friend, would freak me right out. Time to "pull up stakes" and move to Canada. At least I don't have to check under my porch for rattlesnakes every morning. :-)

Reply to
Frank Olson

I've searched and searched, manuals, internet, Google, reference books, gone to the library...... and no where do I find a conversion chart reference for converting ch to inches.

Reply to
Jim

I had a scorpion (dead) fall out of a can too...scared the crap outta me. Now I aways stand back when I open the panels up. We caught a rattler back in August...cute little one. He was napping under some plywood on the job site. Then a real cute lady walked by with her two llamas...it's weird out here man.

Reply to
Crash Gordon

You're gonna laugh but an engineer told me that a rch has an actual value. He may have been joking but it didn't sound like it. And only the red ones.

| > The ONLY complaint I have is that the ridges don't bite into the wood | > enough, so if your 3/8" hole is a "ch" bigger you have a loose contact to | > deal with. | >

| >

| | I've searched and searched, manuals, internet, Google, reference | books, gone to the library...... and no where do I find a conversion | chart reference for converting ch to inches. |

Reply to
Crash Gordon

And did newspaper taxis appear on the shore, waiting to take them away? js

Reply to
alarman

Isn't that a line from the Beatles..... "Lucy in the sky with Diamonds" ....?

Reply to
Jim

No, but the cellophane flowers of yellow and green made me sneeze.

Reply to
Crash Gordon

Reply to
Roland Moore

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