inline...
It would be a good excuse to buy a new tool, but you can solder with a match or butane lighter if you're careful. But use heatshrink tubing not tape.
| | I personally could not think of anything that would be as reliable, but I | thought that the industry would have adopted a less time consuming method. | | I didn?t recognize the phrases, ?Dry B-Beans,? or ?Gel filled B-Beans?. I | googled them with unrelated results.
Formal name: B-Connectors, we call them beanies. The dry ones, are just that...dry inside. The jelly ones have a gel inside to prevent corrosion.
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These are very overpriced...just wanted to show ya what they look like.
| | I?m not familiar with the ?the great-eol-discussion?, but it sounds like the | contentious, ?should totals be at the top of a spread sheet column, or at | the bottom of the column? debate. I looked in our company?s professionally | installed alarm system?s control box. There I saw a mess of loose and | connected wires, some with dangling resisters, and others without.
Yah, that would get the discussion going...end of line resistor in the panel instead of out where they belong. Personally, I use a balance of in panel, and eol...but sshhhh!
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| > Glad you amended that in your second post, 'cause you'd hate yourself when | > trying to connect 16/2 to a switch in a 3/8" recessed door hole! | > Methods to connect: | > Solder & Heat Shrink - if you have time, this is the best | > Dry B-Beans | > Gel filled B-Beans | > Where we are we NEVER use tape, the heat makes the tape fall off or move. | > Better yet use switches that have micro-screw terminals! | >
| > | | > | I can think of a dozen ways to connect the 12 inch lead wires to the | > cable, | > | but what is the "proper" way to make the connection? | > | | > | I have not decided on the actual alarm system yet. Do I need to add a | > | resister to the ends of the cable where the switches are? If resisters | > are | > | needed, can they be connected to the end of the wire inside the control | > box? | > | Each cable is connected to only one switch, except the double French | door. | > | I will put a switch in for each door in series. | >
| > Technically the resistors belong at the end of the line...at the device. | But | > if you dont know what panel you are going to install you won't know what | > resistor value to put out there. Also, you won't know where to put them if | > you are looping doors/windows in the same zone - you only put one resistor | > per zone. If all your doors/windows will be on a separate zone then you | > would need one at each. | >
| > Although I am tempted, I will refrain from starting the | great-eol-discussion | > :-) | >
| > | | > | Seems like information I should be able to find published, but I've | > searched | > | the web and many books from the library. I can't find exact | instructions | > on | > | the correct way to connect the cable to the lead wires. | >
| > No doubt. | >
| > | | > | Thanks, | > | John | > | | > | | >
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