It's was just a rant. I've been doing this over 22 years. The LSD drill wouldn't have worked and I wouldn't have taken the chance of killing my wires on these expensive doors. (Above the wooden header there were old steel lintels...ah trust me it was a PITA)
| >Why the f*ck would you urethane foam insulate all my door contact wires into | >the header? | >
| >Oh, it's good insulation. | >
| >I f****ng know that, your f****ng moron. But, now you left me 3 inches of my | >wire stubbed out through a 3/8" hole (nice) but I can't push them up, or | >pull them down. | >
| >Took me 4 hours to install 9 stupid contacts. | >
| >dickwadidiots | >
| >
| >
| | | Wow! A whole bunch of 'alarm professionals' here and nobody points you | to the proper tool? | | You could have saved yourself a whole bunch of time with the LSD | Rebore-Zit drill bit: | |
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| | You may need an extension, but the bit works enough on its own. | | If this is a common problem - it is in my area - there is an easier | solution. When leaving slack, take about 1 foot of the end of the | wire, fold it back 180 degrees and twist the two wires together as you | feed it back up the hole. Remember to leave some slack - at least one | foot - above the header, so you can pull your wire down. | | The wire will still be insulated in place, but when the wire is pulled | down, it leaves a large enough hole to push the wire back up once you | have the contact installed. | | Or use the Rebore-Zit. | | | Julian