Re: Why?

>Why the f*ck would you urethane foam insulate all my door contact wires into >the header? > >Oh, it's good insulation. > >I f****ng know that, your f****ng moron. But, now you left me 3 inches of my >wire stubbed out through a 3/8" hole (nice) but I can't push them up, or >pull them down. > >Took me 4 hours to install 9 stupid contacts. > >dickwadidiots > > >

Wow! A whole bunch of 'alarm professionals' here and nobody points you to the proper tool?

You could have saved yourself a whole bunch of time with the LSD Rebore-Zit drill bit:

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You may need an extension, but the bit works enough on its own.

If this is a common problem - it is in my area - there is an easier solution. When leaving slack, take about 1 foot of the end of the wire, fold it back 180 degrees and twist the two wires together as you feed it back up the hole. Remember to leave some slack - at least one foot - above the header, so you can pull your wire down.

The wire will still be insulated in place, but when the wire is pulled down, it leaves a large enough hole to push the wire back up once you have the contact installed.

Or use the Rebore-Zit.

Julian

Reply to
Julian
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It's was just a rant. I've been doing this over 22 years. The LSD drill wouldn't have worked and I wouldn't have taken the chance of killing my wires on these expensive doors. (Above the wooden header there were old steel lintels...ah trust me it was a PITA)

| >Why the f*ck would you urethane foam insulate all my door contact wires into | >the header? | >

| >Oh, it's good insulation. | >

| >I f****ng know that, your f****ng moron. But, now you left me 3 inches of my | >wire stubbed out through a 3/8" hole (nice) but I can't push them up, or | >pull them down. | >

| >Took me 4 hours to install 9 stupid contacts. | >

| >dickwadidiots | >

| >

| >

| | | Wow! A whole bunch of 'alarm professionals' here and nobody points you | to the proper tool? | | You could have saved yourself a whole bunch of time with the LSD | Rebore-Zit drill bit: | |

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| | You may need an extension, but the bit works enough on its own. | | If this is a common problem - it is in my area - there is an easier | solution. When leaving slack, take about 1 foot of the end of the | wire, fold it back 180 degrees and twist the two wires together as you | feed it back up the hole. Remember to leave some slack - at least one | foot - above the header, so you can pull your wire down. | | The wire will still be insulated in place, but when the wire is pulled | down, it leaves a large enough hole to push the wire back up once you | have the contact installed. | | Or use the Rebore-Zit. | | | Julian

Reply to
Crash Gordon

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I bought that tool lots of years ago. Used it a few times. But learned that is was best to use it when there was no other choice. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. I find it works better with twisted stranded wire than 4 conductor ..... but even then, sometimes it just twists the crap out of the wire, until it breaks, before you get the hole drilled.

Reply to
Jim

`You don't need any special tools -- you drill a f****ng 3/8" hole vertically right next to the f****ng hole you have that you wallered t0 3/4". The b-connect's go right up the hole and you plug the other one as a service access point. If the builder or homoowner bitches you tell them that's the cost of doing business.

This aint rocket science.

Reply to
G. Morgan

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