Outdoor camera connections.

it, except for the feed hole. Instead take a mold of the surface > with that conformal foam, like they use in packing. That stuff is like > a squishy pad. You would make it flat on the outside mounting surface > and a 'perfect' fit on the inside towards the wall. If you want, you > could make it rigid using expandable fill-foam, cut to shape, then use > a thin sealant between the two. Then there's the fibre glass epoxy > method, too. That's used in boats so would be water proof and last a > while. I see somebody has started to think outside the box a little bit for camera mounting.

surface. No fancy brickwork. I wonder what the companies that do commercial installs on regular basis use nowdays. I'm thinking they just screw the brackets to the brick however they land and use the adjustments on the mounts to align the camera. Me? I'm to frickin fussy .... I guess.

section of the brick. That's what the Binford people on Tool Time would recommend.

Typically, for most of our camera installs where the surface is uneven it is made smooth using a chisel or grinder. It depends on the what sort of peaks and valleys you got. Some is harder to knock down than others.

The artistry comes when you put up the camera, box or bracket and there's no slop showing.

Same as putting a Knox Box up.

Reply to
JoeRaisin
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On Friday, March 29, 2013 6:00:57 AM UTC-4, JoeRaisin wrote: Typically, for most of our camera installs where the surface is uneven it is made smooth using a chisel or grinder. It depends on the what sort of pe aks and valleys you got. Some is harder to knock down than others. The arti stry comes when you put up the camera, box or bracket and there's no slop s howing. Same as putting a Knox Box up.

With a Knox Box, it's usually large enough so that the "average" of the lum ps and bumps just requires a few smacks with a hammer to knock of the large st peaks. With such a small surface as the round surface mount of a bullet camera it's got to be a lot smoother.

The more I ask around the more I'm leaning towards borrowing/renting a carb ide disk cutting tool to smooth the surface down.

I really appreciate all the input on this. Without this kind of help, you u sually wind up doing a job the way you think is the best and then when you' re done, someone sez ..... why didn't you do it THIS way? Which turns out i s 10 times easier than the way you did it.

At least if that happens on this job, I can blame all of you ...... !

Reply to
Jim

made smooth using a chisel or grinder. It depends on the what sort of peaks and valleys you got. Some is harder to knock down than others. The artistry comes when you put up the camera, box or bracket and there's no slop showing. Same as putting a Knox Box up.

and bumps just requires a few smacks with a hammer to knock of the largest peaks. With such a small surface as the round surface mount of a bullet camera it's got to be a lot smoother.

I like to mount them smooth - I just *know* that the one time i leave the slightest unevenness the damn rear tamper button won't clear.

Overkill, I know, but I always try to anticipate where problems could arise and eliminate the possibility if I can - if that makes any sense.

also silicon the top and sides so there's no chance of water doing anything with my wire hole, and I always (unless there's a reason I can't) drill my holes angled slightly down as they exit the building.

I'm one of those guys who would wear a belt AND suspenders...

disk cutting tool to smooth the surface down.

usually wind up doing a job the way you think is the best and then when you're done, someone sez ..... why didn't you do it THIS way? Which turns out is 10 times easier than the way you did it.

Reply to
JoeRaisin

And I thought I had cornered the market on the "belt AND suspenders" look!!

Dang it, a twin.

:-)

Reply to
ABLE1

On Saturday, March 30, 2013 6:57:35 AM UTC-4, JoeRaisin wrote: I like to mount them smooth - I just *know* that the one time i leave the slightest unevenness the damn rear tamper button won't clear. Overkill, I k now, but I always try to anticipate where problems could arise and eliminat e the possibility if I can - if that makes any sense. also silicon the top and sides so there's no chance of water doing anything with my wire hole, a nd I always (unless there's a reason I can't) drill my holes angled slightl y down as they exit the building. I'm one of those guys who would wear a be lt AND suspenders...

I know what you mean ...... and I DO wear a belt and suspenders .... but on ly because I have so much (cell phone pouch with small screwdrivers, pens, pencils and keys) hanging on my belt that I need the suspenders to hold it all up. Besides .... old guys can do that and get away with it.

Reply to
Jim

I know what you mean ...... and I DO wear a belt and suspenders .... but only because I have so much (cell phone pouch with small screwdrivers, pens, pencils and keys) hanging on my belt that I need the suspenders to hold it all up. Besides .... old guys can do that and get away with it.

My analogy is that you can't tie a string around a funnel. With out my belt and suspenders I would have plumbers crack. Believe me when I say, it is NOT a pretty site.

Les

Reply to
ABLE1

Great point!!!

I use a wrist monitor to adjust the camera so I don't have to go back up the ladder. Yep, gotta put a junction box on the outside with the camera.

Hi,

Actually, no, it's still a one-man job. If you can adjust the camera on the outside by yourself using a junction box, then I can adjust the camera all by myself without the box...same way, just slightly different. I never need a second man to adjust, wouldn't think of it.

Reply to
E DAWSON

e no way to trouble shoot or adjust the view of the > camera from outside A T the camera, now it just became a TWO MAN JOB. Great point!!! I use a wris t monitor to adjust the camera so I don't have to go back up the ladder. Ye p, gotta put a junction box on the outside with the camera.

Hi, Actually, no, it's still a one-man job. If you can adjust the camera on the outside by yourself using a junction box, then I can adjust the camera all by myself without the box...same way, just slightly different. I never need a second man to adjust, wouldn't think of it.

Well ..... don't keep it a secret ............... How would you do it?

I'm thinking that .... with the video connection in the wall that you could possibly set the camera up before you permanently mount it .... then stuff the connections in the wall and caulk the hole ...... but that wouldn't ma ke it very easy if you had to go back and tweek the setting a little bit, l ater on.

Reply to
Jim

"Jim" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com... On Tuesday, April 2, 2013 9:27:39 AM UTC-4, E DAWSON wrote:

Hi, Actually, no, it's still a one-man job. If you can adjust the camera on the outside by yourself using a junction box, then I can adjust the camera all by myself without the box...same way, just slightly different. I never need a second man to adjust, wouldn't think of it.

Well ..... don't keep it a secret ............... How would you do it?

I'm thinking that .... with the video connection in the wall that you could possibly set the camera up before you permanently mount it .... then stuff the connections in the wall and caulk the hole ...... but that wouldn't make it very easy if you had to go back and tweek the setting a little bit, later on.

Hi,

Sorry I am taking so long to get back to you. I don't know if you did the job by now, but anyway, this is how I install them if I do not want an ugly box on the front of a building.

Since you say that your wall/brick facing is so uneven, and I did not want to deface this building front, nor install a box on top of that, I would be using either screw/bolt studs or just long screws-stainless steel of course. You drill your holes in the softer mortar joints, as mentioned much earlier in the posts, and you insert your plastic or lead plugs into the three holes. You will need also the washers as mentioned before. You will have to estimate about how many washers for each screw that you will need to make that camera parallel with the wall. A little trial or error, but that does not take long at all. The camera will have uneven space between it and the brick which could possibly vary from 1/8" to maybe 3/8" or more. It is now fastened to the wall with screws and washers that keep it away from the wall to offset the unevenness of it. That space at the biggest point is where you will also have left your video wire unconnected and dangling outside of your camera for you to now adjust it with your wrist monitor or small portable HD TV set. That is what I use because it gives a much better picture and it is easier to view also. We now use only cams which come with button-control to adjust all kinds of settings on the camera such as WDR, BLC, etc., so I do need to be able to adjust it out there. We also use only varifocal for almost everything, this way, no matter what the view that is required for a job, it is very easily achievable for any project.

So now it is perfectly adjusted and it is parallel with the wall and no ugly box either. The video/power connectors are in an almost bomb proof environment "loosely" in the hole in the wall. They pull right out if you need to get to them again because you bought or made extension wires long enough to do that.

All you have to do now is remove 2 screws out of 3 while keeping track of how many washers for each screw that you took off. You loosen the 3rd screw that is still holding the camera. Now you can tilt or rotate the cam to hook up your video connection and place it into the larger hole in the wall. A little electrical tape to prevent any grounding possibilities on the connectors would be a good idea.

Insert your 2 other screws with their respective amount of washers and screw them back into your plugs. Camera is now parallel, perfectly adjusted by ONE man, and very well secured. I will only have drilled 4 holes including the video/power wire hole, all in the mortar joints-none in the bricks. If need be that at a later time that the customer wanted to remove that camera, it can be easily removed, and with very little mortar patch, I could make those holes disappear.

So you say, ok, but what about the gaps? That is why, as I mentioned in the previous posts, that I use that flexible type gasket material that is similar to the gaskets that come with those grey pvc outdoor boxes. I will have cut out previously a gasket for it, with the screw/washers holes and video/power hole already cut out. I am sure that you can figure out when that gets put in. A 'small' amount of carefully applied 50-year silicone on the outside will finish the product beautifully. You can get it with colour matching if need be.

By the way, to drill all 4 holes in mortar only, you have to view it as a symmetrical "Y" . So if you are looking at it, the center hole for video/power and the bottom fastening screw are in the same vertical mortar joint. The left and right fastening screws are in the horizontal mortar joint directly above and adjoining the vertical joint. If you just play with it, you will see how simple it is. It can also be installed backward or upside down. I believe you had a 3" flange as mentioned earlier so that should be easily done.

Hoping this helps you in some way. This is not theory, just how I do it 'alone' and it looks great and all the while the connections are always readily accessible. By the way, I do not remember the last time when I've had to go and re-adjust a camera again. Take care.

Reply to
E DAWSON

Where to buy? How to do without junction box?

Reply to
Robert Macy

On Sunday, May 5, 2013 10:49:20 PM UTC-4, E DAWSON wrote:

c12... On Tuesday, April 2, 2013 9:27:39 AM UTC-4, E DAWSON wrote: > also, with the connectors of a factory pre-wired > "Pigtail" you will have > no w ay to trouble shoot or adjust the view of the > camera from outside AT > th e camera, now it just became a TWO MAN JOB. Great point!!! I use a wrist > monitor to adjust the camera so I don't have to go back up the ladder. > Ye p, gotta put a junction box on the outside with the camera. Hi, Actually, n o, it's still a one-man job. If you can adjust the camera on the outside by yourself using a junction box, then I can adjust the camera all by myself without the box...same way, just slightly different. I never need a second man to adjust, wouldn't think of it. Well ..... don't keep it a secret .... ........... How would you do it? I'm thinking that .... with the video conn ection in the wall that you could possibly set the camera up before you per manently mount it .... then stuff the connections in the wall and caulk the hole ...... but that wouldn't make it very easy if you had to go back and tweek the setting a little bit, later on. Hi, Sorry I am taking so long to get back to you. I don't know if you did the job by now, but anyway, this i s how I install them if I do not want an ugly box on the front of a buildin g. Since you say that your wall/brick facing is so uneven, and I did not wa nt to deface this building front, nor install a box on top of that, I would be using either screw/bolt studs or just long screws-stainless steel of co urse. You drill your holes in the softer mortar joints, as mentioned much e arlier in the posts, and you insert your plastic or lead plugs into the thr ee holes. You will need also the washers as mentioned before. You will have to estimate about how many washers for each screw that you will need to ma ke that camera parallel with the wall. A little trial or error, but that do es not take long at all. The camera will have uneven space between it and t he brick which could possibly vary from 1/8" to maybe 3/8" or more. It is n ow fastened to the wall with screws and washers that keep it away from the wall to offset the unevenness of it. That space at the biggest point is whe re you will also have left your video wire unconnected and dangling outside of your camera for you to now adjust it with your wrist monitor or small p ortable HD TV set. That is what I use because it gives a much better pictur e and it is easier to view also. We now use only cams which come with butto n-control to adjust all kinds of settings on the camera such as WDR, BLC, e tc., so I do need to be able to adjust it out there. We also use only varif ocal for almost everything, this way, no matter what the view that is requi red for a job, it is very easily achievable for any project. So now it is p erfectly adjusted and it is parallel with the wall and no ugly box either. The video/power connectors are in an almost bomb proof environment "loosely " in the hole in the wall. They pull right out if you need to get to them a gain because you bought or made extension wires long enough to do that. All you have to do now is remove 2 screws out of 3 while keeping track of how many washers for each screw that you took off. You loosen the 3rd screw tha t is still holding the camera. Now you can tilt or rotate the cam to hook u p your video connection and place it into the larger hole in the wall. A li ttle electrical tape to prevent any grounding possibilities on the connecto rs would be a good idea. Insert your 2 other screws with their respective a mount of washers and screw them back into your plugs. Camera is now paralle l, perfectly adjusted by ONE man, and very well secured. I will only have d rilled 4 holes including the video/power wire hole, all in the mortar joint s-none in the bricks. If need be that at a later time that the customer wan ted to remove that camera, it can be easily removed, and with very little m ortar patch, I could make those holes disappear. So you say, ok, but what a bout the gaps? That is why, as I mentioned in the previous posts, that I us e that flexible type gasket material that is similar to the gaskets that co me with those grey pvc outdoor boxes. I will have cut out previously a gask et for it, with the screw/washers holes and video/power hole already cut ou t. I am sure that you can figure out when that gets put in. A 'small' amoun t of carefully applied 50-year silicone on the outside will finish the prod uct beautifully. You can get it with colour matching if need be. By the way , to drill all 4 holes in mortar only, you have to view it as a symmetrical "Y" . So if you are looking at it, the center hole for video/power and the bottom fastening screw are in the same vertical mortar joint. The left and right fastening screws are in the horizontal mortar joint directly above a nd adjoining the vertical joint. If you just play with it, you will see how simple it is. It can also be installed backward or upside down. I believe you had a 3" flange as mentioned earlier so that should be easily done. Hop ing this helps you in some way. This is not theory, just how I do it 'alone ' and it looks great and all the while the connections are always readily a ccessible. By the way, I do not remember the last time when I've had to go and re-adjust a camera again. Take care.

Hi,

Well ..... thanks alot for that. Sounds like a great way to do it. I think I'll be getting to the first outdoor camera in a couple of weeks. I'm going to do the camera that's way in the back of the building first, in case I r un into some "trial and error" problems. I'll look into where to obtain tha t gasket material you described. I don't remember ever seeing anything like that sold seperately but I'll ask at the local electrical supply. If not, I'm a great fan of duct seal which would eliminate the need for caulking an d is removeable, even after many years.

Again, thanks for taking the time for the detailed description.

Reply to
Jim

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