Outdoor camera connections.

I have an installation of outdoor cameras on a brick building coming up. It 's a nice looking building and I'd like some ideas for mounting the cameras and find out how you-all are terminating the camera connections. On other jobs that I've done I've used treated wood either screwed or masonary naile d to the cement block and used a weather proof 4X4 plastic box for the conn ections. All mounted to a smooth cement brick surface. Really commercial an d not necessary to be "pretty".

This next job has colored unevenly textured bricks which is going to be har d to attach a board to evenly and a anyway ...... a piece of treated wood a nd a grey plastic box isn't going to look too good on the front of this nic e building. I'll be using bullet cameras and the connection leads are only about a foot long. I presently use compression fittings for the wires going into the bo x and caulk the wire hole through the wall. I'll be using baluns so I need the box.

Any suggestions?

Reply to
Jim
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Try some of these.. work good on some types of cameras.. You can add different extension rings or plates for the different camera styles

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RTS

I have an installation of outdoor cameras on a brick building coming up. It's a nice looking building and I'd like some ideas for mounting the cameras and find out how you-all are terminating the camera connections. On other jobs that I've done I've used treated wood either screwed or masonary nailed to the cement block and used a weather proof 4X4 plastic box for the connections. All mounted to a smooth cement brick surface. Really commercial and not necessary to be "pretty".

This next job has colored unevenly textured bricks which is going to be hard to attach a board to evenly and a anyway ...... a piece of treated wood and a grey plastic box isn't going to look too good on the front of this nice building. I'll be using bullet cameras and the connection leads are only about a foot long. I presently use compression fittings for the wires going into the box and caulk the wire hole through the wall. I'll be using baluns so I need the box.

Any suggestions?

Reply to
RockyTSquirrel

erent extension rings or plates for the different camera styles

formatting link
RTS

Thanks Rocky. I'll have to look more closely at their product line and mayb e even a phone call. At first glance I didn't see anything for mounting a b ullet camera or a little bit bigger box that would hold the cable, connecto rs and a balun and I'm still wondering about how to keep this all looking n ice mounting it on the uneven surface of the brickface. What the problem wi th the box is...... the strain relief on the connector end of the camera ca bles is so thick that the cables bend radius added to the length of the con nectors and balun requires a larger box. At least 4 x 4. Then I also need a n 1/2 or 3/4 inch hole in the box for a watertight fitting.

Anyway, thanks for the lead. I'll be following up.

If anyone eles has any more suggestions ......... ? Especially with the mou nting of the camera on the uneven surface of the brickface.

Reply to
Jim

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Thanks Rocky. I'll have to look more closely at their product line and maybe even a phone call. At first glance I didn't see anything for mounting a bullet camera or a little bit bigger box that would hold the cable, connectors and a balun and I'm still wondering about how to keep this all looking nice mounting it on the uneven surface of the brickface. What the problem with the box is...... the strain relief on the connector end of the camera cables is so thick that the cables bend radius added to the length of the connectors and balun requires a larger box. At least 4 x 4. Then I also need an 1/2 or 3/4 inch hole in the box for a watertight fitting.

Anyway, thanks for the lead. I'll be following up.

If anyone eles has any more suggestions ......... ? Especially with the mounting of the camera on the uneven surface of the brickface.

Jim,

Tough problem. Not going to be easy but if you can chisel and/or grind off a flat spot on your rough surface large enough for your 4x4 box to sit flat on top of your penetration hole in the wall. Plastic box can be painted to best match the wall color but you need to use the right paint. Be sure to caulk well around the box against the box.

Good luck.

Les

Reply to
ABLE1

Tough problem. Not going to be easy but if you can chisel and/or grind off a flat spot on your rough surface large enough for your 4x4 box to sit fla t on top of your penetration hole in the wall. Plastic box can be painted t o best match the wall color but you need to use the right paint. Be sure to caulk well around the box against the box. Good luck. Les

Thanks Les, I've been thinking about it and today I thought about buying some duct-seal and putting it on the back of a piece of Azek or PVC decking and just scre wing it to the wall. The weather wouldn't affect the board and the duct-sea l would steady the board and would "space it" too. Duct-seal wouldn't dry out and it would keep the board steady. I thought about epoxy on the back o f the board also but I'd be concerned about controling the epoxy so it didn 't run down the building before it dried. I'm thinking that there's all kin ds of "caulking" stuff out there too. I'll have to take a look next time I' m at Home Depot. Maybe just simple construction cement would work too.

Any other suggestions are welcome.

Reply to
Jim

a nice looking building and I'd like some ideas for mounting the cameras and find out how you-all are terminating the camera connections. On other jobs that I've done I've used treated wood either screwed or masonary nailed to the cement block and used a weather proof 4X4 plastic box for the connections. All mounted to a smooth cement brick surface. Really commercial and not necessary to be "pretty".

to attach a board to evenly and a anyway ...... a piece of treated wood and a grey plastic box isn't going to look too good on the front of this nice building.

long. I presently use compression fittings for the wires going into the box and caulk the wire hole through the wall. I'll be using baluns so I need the box.

Give the job to AGD.

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Reply to
Frank Kurz

off a flat spot on your rough surface large enough for your 4x4 box to sit flat on top of your penetration hole in the wall. Plastic box can be paint ed to best match the wall color but you need to use the right paint. Be sur e to caulk well around the box against the box. Good luck. Les

al and putting it on the back of a piece of Azek or PVC decking and just sc rewing it to the wall. The weather wouldn't affect the board and the duct-s eal would steady the board and would "space it" too.  Duct-seal wouldn't dry out and it would keep the board steady. I thought about epoxy on the ba ck of the board also but I'd be concerned about controling the epoxy so it didn't run down the building before it dried. I'm thinking that there's all kinds of "caulking" stuff out there too. I'll have to take a look next tim e I'm at Home Depot. Maybe just simple construction cement would work too.

If the brick wall is that nice, don't do anything that permanently mars it, except for the feed hole. Instead take a mold of the surface with that conformal foam, like they use in packing. That stuff is like a squishy pad. You would make it flat on the outside mounting surface and a 'perfect' fit on the inside towards the wall. If you want, you could make it rigid using expandable fill-foam, cut to shape, then use a thin sealant between the two. Then there's the fibre glass epoxy method, too. That's used in boats so would be water proof and last a while.

Reply to
Robert Macy

This next job has colored unevenly textured bricks which is going to be hard to attach a board to evenly and a anyway ...... a piece of treated wood and a grey plastic box isn't going to look too good on the front of this nice building. I'll be using bullet cameras and the connection leads are only about a foot long. I presently use compression fittings for the wires going into the box and caulk the wire hole through the wall. I'll be using baluns so I need the box.

Any suggestions?

Hi,

I am thinking perhaps outside the "box" here, or should I say inside. You say that the connection leads are about a foot long, and based upon this you want to use a box on the outside of this very nice building to hide your baluns and connectors.

If it was me, I would get some 2'-3' power extenders for the 12v or 24v lead from the camera; that should get you thru the wall into someplace more suitable for your final connectors.

For the video lead, do the same thing by making or buying a video extender cable. Again, that gets you thru the wall. Of course, I am assuming that this takes you into some kind of ceiling or something. If not, you could still put a box inside a building...usually looks better than outside the front of a building.

Now all you will need to do is to drill a hole about 3/4" to 1" thru the wall and pass the wires thru. The flange on a bullet camera should easily cover the hole that you drilled. Also, you should be able to find a spot that is smooth enough for the flange. Now all you will see on the outside is the camera...much prettier.

A video connector is just a hair under 5/8". I can get the cables thru on a

3/4" hole by first taping the video connector to the thin wire of the power lead. Basically, you are staggering your actual connectors so that they are offset to each other, the power and video connectors are never lined up together. Pretend that you have a shorter power lead from the camera than the video lead and I think you will get the picture.

I usually find a "T" in the grout joint between bricks to drill thru much softer cement than bricks. That is the place that the biggest hole can be drilled much more easily. Bring some aspirin for your shoulder if you drill thru the brick without a hammer drill. I attempted to do that a while ago. The hole had to be in a specific spot because of this particular building. I gave up after 20 minutes of fruitless drilling 16' up in a ladder. Home Depoed it the next morning with the "Holenator", makes brick feel like Swiss cheese instead.

Hope this helps you.

Reply to
E DAWSON

On Thursday, March 21, 2013 7:09:28 PM UTC-4, E DAWSON wrote: Hi, I am thinking perhaps outside the "box" here, or should I say inside. You say that the connection leads are about a foot long, and based upon thi s you want to use a box on the outside of this very nice building to hide y our baluns and connectors. If it was me, I would get some 2'-3' power exten ders for the 12v or 24v lead from the camera; that should get you thru the wall into someplace more suitable for your final connectors. For the video lead, do the same thing by making or buying a video extender cable. Again, that gets you thru the wall. Of course, I am assuming that this takes you i nto some kind of ceiling or something. If not, you could still put a box in side a building...usually looks better than outside the front of a building . Now all you will need to do is to drill a hole about 3/4" to 1" thru the wall and pass the wires thru. The flange on a bullet camera should easily c over the hole that you drilled. Also, you should be able to find a spot tha t is smooth enough for the flange. Now all you will see on the outside is t he camera...much prettier. A video connector is just a hair under 5/8". I c an get the cables thru on a 3/4" hole by first taping the video connector t o the thin wire of the power lead. Basically, you are staggering your actua l connectors so that they are offset to each other, the power and video con nectors are never lined up together. Pretend that you have a shorter power lead from the camera than the video lead and I think you will get the pictu re. I usually find a "T" in the grout joint between bricks to drill thru mu ch softer cement than bricks. That is the place that the biggest hole can b e drilled much more easily. Bring some aspirin for your shoulder if you dri ll thru the brick without a hammer drill. I attempted to do that a while ag o. The hole had to be in a specific spot because of this particular buildin g. I gave up after 20 minutes of fruitless drilling 16' up in a ladder. Hom e Depoed it the next morning with the "Holenator", makes brick feel like Sw iss cheese instead. Hope this helps you.

Your suggestion "sounds" good but I have a problem with the fact that there will be connectors ..... in the hole in the cement. Your suggestion would be great if the leads from the camera were two feet long so that the connec tons would be on the inside of the building. Also, I have no idea at this t ime as to how thick the wall really is. The building is concrete block on t he inside and textured brick on the outside. I'm guessing the the wall is p robably 8 to 10 inches thick .... but it could be more. I'll have to determ ine how thick it is before I make a decision how I'm going to do this. If t he outside textured brick is not too thick, I'm picturing making a "larger" hole in the "hollow" part of the cement brick on the inside of the buildin g then drilling the wire hole the rest of the way through to the outside. T he connectors would be accessable, and able to be protected and the hole co uld be covered with a backless 6 x 6 electrical box and cover. Up high on t he inside of the building it would hardly be noticed. The ceilings are 20 f eet.

The other problem I see is that the mounting flange of the camera is only about three and a half inches in diameter, so mounting it the way you sugge sted, directly to the brick would require being extremely lucky in finding four flat corners of the bricks that are all flat enough to mount the camer a. Then drilling at the very edges of the brick is very likely to crack the corners of at least one and maybe all the bricks. If that happens then I'm screwed. I still think I need some kind of a mounting surface/material for the cameras.

What do you think!

Reply to
Jim

"Jim" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com...

Your suggestion "sounds" good but I have a problem with the fact that there will be connectors ..... in the hole in the cement. Your suggestion would be great if the leads from the camera were two feet long so that the connectons would be on the inside of the building. Also, I have no idea at this time as to how thick the wall really is. The building is concrete block on the inside and textured brick on the outside. I'm guessing the the wall is probably 8 to 10 inches thick .... but it could be more. I'll have to determine how thick it is before I make a decision how I'm going to do this. If the outside textured brick is not too thick, I'm picturing making a "larger" hole in the "hollow" part of the cement brick on the inside of the building then drilling the wire hole the rest of the way through to the outside. The connectors would be accessable, and able to be protected and the hole could be covered with a backless 6 x 6 electrical box and cover. Up high on the inside of the building it would hardly be noticed. The ceilings are 20 feet.

The other problem I see is that the mounting flange of the camera is only about three and a half inches in diameter, so mounting it the way you suggested, directly to the brick would require being extremely lucky in finding four flat corners of the bricks that are all flat enough to mount the camera. Then drilling at the very edges of the brick is very likely to crack the corners of at least one and maybe all the bricks. If that happens then I'm screwed. I still think I need some kind of a mounting surface/material for the cameras.

What do you think!

Two more thoughts for you. You could use some brass pipe over long lag bolts to mount the box on the outside. Consider them as stand-offs of sorts. Doing this would allow the box to sit square to the wall and make it secure. Just cut the brass pipe to length as needed. Use a piece of Conduit to pass through the back into the wall to protect the cables.

The other thought would be if you wanted to use a compound that can be found it the paint dept at Lowes. It comes out of the tub in a very think past. Apply in layers behind the box to fill in the opening giving a better look. It has sand in it that gives the look of mortar or stone grout. Can't think of the actual name but if you ask or look on the caulk or concrete fill or patch it should show up. It is a light gray in color.

I am sure with all this thinking you will find something that will work. Posting pictures somewhere would be nice.

Les

Reply to
ABLE1

Two more thoughts for you. You could use some brass pipe over long lag bol ts to mount the box on the outside. Consider them as stand-offs of sorts. D oing this would allow the box to sit square to the wall and make it secure. Just cut the brass pipe to length as needed. Use a piece of Conduit to pas s through the back into the wall to protect the cables. The other thought w ould be if you wanted to use a compound that can be found it the paint dept at Lowes. It comes out of the tub in a very think past. Apply in layers be hind the box to fill in the opening giving a better look. It has sand in it that gives the look of mortar or stone grout. Can't think of the actual na me but if you ask or look on the caulk or concrete fill or patch it should show up. It is a light gray in color. I am sure with all this thinking you will find something that will work. Posting pictures somewhere would be nic e. Les

Spacers would be ok and probably not be able to be seen from the ground tha t good either but I've got seven outdoor cameras. That's a lot of brass and a lot of custom length cutting. Is that the stuff that they put down to ne st a tub in? Or it just might be Quick Patch. I'd have to see how well it drilled and st uck to the textured brick.

All good things I'd have to look at on my next "Depot" run and to try out.

I just replaced my digital camera that I lost, so if I think of it I'll tak e some pic's. It'll be a couple of months. I'll just have to have someone tell me how to post them so people in the group can see them.

Reply to
Jim

"Jim" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com... On Thursday, March 21, 2013 7:09:28 PM UTC-4, E DAWSON wrote: Hi, I am thinking perhaps outside the "box" here, or should I say inside. You say that the connection leads are about a foot long, and based upon this you want to use a box on the outside of this very nice building to hide your baluns and connectors. If it was me, I would get some 2'-3' power extenders for the 12v or 24v lead from the camera; that should get you thru the wall into someplace more suitable for your final connectors. For the video lead, do the same thing by making or buying a video extender cable. Again, that gets you thru the wall. Of course, I am assuming that this takes you into some kind of ceiling or something. If not, you could still put a box inside a building...usually looks better than outside the front of a building. Now all you will need to do is to drill a hole about 3/4" to 1" thru the wall and pass the wires thru. The flange on a bullet camera should easily cover the hole that you drilled. Also, you should be able to find a spot that is smooth enough for the flange. Now all you will see on the outside is the camera...much prettier. A video connector is just a hair under 5/8". I can get the cables thru on a 3/4" hole by first taping the video connector to the thin wire of the power lead. Basically, you are staggering your actual connectors so that they are offset to each other, the power and video connectors are never lined up together. Pretend that you have a shorter power lead from the camera than the video lead and I think you will get the picture. I usually find a "T" in the grout joint between bricks to drill thru much softer cement than bricks. That is the place that the biggest hole can be drilled much more easily. Bring some aspirin for your shoulder if you drill thru the brick without a hammer drill. I attempted to do that a while ago. The hole had to be in a specific spot because of this particular building. I gave up after 20 minutes of fruitless drilling 16' up in a ladder. Home Depoed it the next morning with the "Holenator", makes brick feel like Swiss cheese instead. Hope this helps you.

Your suggestion "sounds" good but I have a problem with the fact that there will be connectors ..... in the hole in the cement. Your suggestion would be great if the leads from the camera were two feet long so that the connectons would be on the inside of the building. Also, I have no idea at this time as to how thick the wall really is. The building is concrete block on the inside and textured brick on the outside. I'm guessing the the wall is probably 8 to 10 inches thick .... but it could be more. I'll have to determine how thick it is before I make a decision how I'm going to do this. If the outside textured brick is not too thick, I'm picturing making a "larger" hole in the "hollow" part of the cement brick on the inside of the building then drilling the wire hole the rest of the way through to the outside. The connectors would be accessable, and able to be protected and the hole could be covered with a backless 6 x 6 electrical box and cover. Up high on the inside of the building it would hardly be noticed. The ceilings are 20 feet.

The other problem I see is that the mounting flange of the camera is only about three and a half inches in diameter, so mounting it the way you suggested, directly to the brick would require being extremely lucky in finding four flat corners of the bricks that are all flat enough to mount the camera. Then drilling at the very edges of the brick is very likely to crack the corners of at least one and maybe all the bricks. If that happens then I'm screwed. I still think I need some kind of a mounting surface/material for the cameras.

What do you think!

Hi again,

The video and power connectors in the cement hole can be wrapped in electrical tape so that there will be no grounding possibilities to the concrete. Whether the connectors are in the hole or somewhere else does not bother me in the least bit. They are loosely in the round cavity and perfectly well protected. If you need to get to them, they can be easily pulled back out. They are really going to be a permanent connection and extension of your short leads coming out of the camera.

You also mentioned that you are concerned about attaching the camera directly to the brick and finding enough of a flat surface. If you drill even a 1" hole for your video and power leads to go thru, in the mortar joint spot where the horizontal and vertical mortar joints meet, you will find that your fasteners will be in 3 individual bricks-based on an average brick size. Normally, on a round flange, you should have only 3 holes for fasteners. So, with as large a flange as you describe, 3 1/2", and based upon the average distance of the holes in the flange to be about 3/8" in from the edge, coupled with a 1" hole in the center for your wiring, that leaves a distance of about 3/4" of net brick/mortar in between the center hole and your fastening holes. That is plenty of space so that nothing will crack. I am assuming that you are drilling a 1/4" hole into the brick for your fasteners. Unless your cameras are going to be used for wall climbing exercises, there is no need to use any larger fasteners than that. By using

3 bricks, you can create a more even surface for your flange. Think of it as a three-legged stool.

Let me take you further outside the box again. You keep looking at the flange like all of it has to be perfectly flat up against the brick. It does not, only the 3 points where your fasteners are, need to be parallel with the wall surface. You can use a nifty little invention called 'washers' to adjust your camera flange to that it clears any obstruction in the brick surface. Also, as one person mentioned earlier, a tiny bit of carefully applied chiseling will work wonders. By the way, make sure you buy stainless steel washers and fasteners also.

So now you'll say, but what about the gap between the flange and the brick because of the washers? Well, what I would use is the same similar type of gasket stuff that comes with a pvc electrical box. It is spongy and will adapt to any surface. I have some in sheets of about 1' x 1'. It can come in different thicknesses, I have some that is 3/8" thick. You just cut it to size of flange, in your case 3 1/2". Cut a 1" hole in the middle for the wiring and cut out your holes for the fasteners. Now that makes a custom well-fitted seal. Additionally, I would then apply a thin layer of nicely-applied 50-year silicone to the edge between the flange and the brick for added protection.

That's how I would do it without going to any further extreme. It will be very sturdy, it will look very good, it will be flat, it will be well sealed, and you can get at any of the wiring anytime.

About finding where you can buy that sheet gasket material, I have had mine for quite a long time. I cannot remember exactly how it came into my possession. But, by using this internet, a dedicated researcher can find out soon enough. If you cannot find it, let me know. When I have some time I will find it for you. No, I really doubt that it will be a Home Depot or Lowes available product, but you could be pleasantly surprised.

I hope this has helped you further.

Reply to
E DAWSON

It's a nice looking building and I'd like some ideas for mounting the camer as and find out how you-all are terminating the camera connections. On othe r jobs that I've done I've used treated wood either screwed or masonary nai led to the cement block and used a weather proof 4X4 plastic box for the co nnections. All mounted to a smooth cement brick surface. Really commercial and not necessary to be "pretty".

ard to attach a board to evenly and a anyway ...... a piece of treated wood and a grey plastic box isn't going to look too good on the front of this n ice building.

ot long. I presently use compression fittings for the wires going into the box and caulk the wire hole through the wall. I'll be using baluns so I nee d the box.

Use a 3 to 4 Inch flat masonry chisel and a large hammer to prepare the sur face flat where you will mount the equipment with just a small amount of ex tra flattened area to caulk around mount and box edges.

Reply to
spam

. It's a nice looking building and I'd like some ideas for mounting the cam eras and find out how you-all are terminating the camera connections. On ot her jobs that I've done I've used treated wood either screwed or masonary n ailed to the cement block and used a weather proof 4X4 plastic box for the connections. All mounted to a smooth cement brick surface. Really commercia l and not necessary to be "pretty".

hard to attach a board to evenly and a anyway ...... a piece of treated wo od and a grey plastic box isn't going to look too good on the front of this nice building.

foot long. I presently use compression fittings for the wires going into th e box and caulk the wire hole through the wall. I'll be using baluns so I n eed the box.

urface flat where you will mount the equipment with just a small amount of extra flattened area to caulk around mount and box edges.

Keeping in mind connectors are never a good idea to bury in a wall (which I see you already agree) but also, with the connectors of a factory pre-wire d "Pigtail" you will have no way to trouble shoot or adjust the view of the camera from outside AT the camera, now it just became a TWO MAN JOB.

Reply to
spam

On Saturday, March 23, 2013 9:38:01 AM UTC-4, E DAWSON wrote: Hi again, The video and power connectors in the cement hole can be wrappe d in electrical tape so that there will be no grounding possibilities to th e concrete. Whether the connectors are in the hole or somewhere else does n ot bother me in the least bit. They are loosely in the round cavity and per fectly well protected. If you need to get to them, they can be easily pulle d back out. They are really going to be a permanent connection and extensio n of your short leads coming out of the camera. You also mentioned that you are concerned about attaching the camera directly to the brick and finding enough of a flat surface. If you drill even a 1" hole for your video and p ower leads to go thru, in the mortar joint spot where the horizontal and ve rtical mortar joints meet, you will find that your fasteners will be in 3 i ndividual bricks-based on an average brick size. Normally, on a round flang e, you should have only 3 holes for fasteners. So, with as large a flange a s you describe, 3 1/2", and based upon the average distance of the holes in the flange to be about 3/8" in from the edge, coupled with a 1" hole in th e center for your wiring, that leaves a distance of about 3/4" of net brick /mortar in between the center hole and your fastening holes. That is plenty of space so that nothing will crack. I am assuming that you are drilling a 1/4" hole into the brick for your fasteners. Unless your cameras are going to be used for wall climbing exercises, there is no need to use any larger fasteners than that. By using 3 bricks, you can create a more even surface for your flange. Think of it as a three-legged stool. Let me take you furt her outside the box again. You keep looking at the flange like all of it ha s to be perfectly flat up against the brick. It does not, only the 3 points where your fasteners are, need to be parallel with the wall surface. You c an use a nifty little invention called 'washers' to adjust your camera flan ge to that it clears any obstruction in the brick surface. Also, as one per son mentioned earlier, a tiny bit of carefully applied chiseling will work wonders. By the way, make sure you buy stainless steel washers and fastener s also. So now you'll say, but what about the gap between the flange and th e brick because of the washers? Well, what I would use is the same similar type of gasket stuff that comes with a pvc electrical box. It is spongy and will adapt to any surface. I have some in sheets of about 1' x 1'. It can come in different thicknesses, I have some that is 3/8" thick. You just cut it to size of flange, in your case 3 1/2". Cut a 1" hole in the middle for the wiring and cut out your holes for the fasteners. Now that makes a cust om well-fitted seal. Additionally, I would then apply a thin layer of nicel y-applied 50-year silicone to the edge between the flange and the brick for added protection. That's how I would do it without going to any further ex treme. It will be very sturdy, it will look very good, it will be flat, it will be well sealed, and you can get at any of the wiring anytime. About fi nding where you can buy that sheet gasket material, I have had mine for qui te a long time. I cannot remember exactly how it came into my possession. B ut, by using this internet, a dedicated researcher can find out soon enough . If you cannot find it, let me know. When I have some time I will find it for you. No, I really doubt that it will be a Home Depot or Lowes available product, but you could be pleasantly surprised. I hope this has helped you further.

Good ideas. All will be considered when I finally get a chance to see how t hick and strong the textured brick is. The weather is still a little cold y et and I've got a lot of wiring to do on the inside for alarms, access cont rol, and computer networking that are all more important right now. I figur e it should work out timing/weather wise in a few weeks to do the cameras.

I really appreciate your suggestions. Many years ago, when cameras used to weigh 5 pounds, I used to do commercial cameras. But I stopped when it got to the point that some of the local trunk slammers were installing video fo r the cost of equipment and $100.00 a day. And in recent years I've shyed away from commercial work in favor of residential where I enjoy testing my snaking and concealment skills. However, one of the "hazzards" of being in business so long is having a client like this one for over 25 years who's m oving to a much larger location. We've become friends through the years and I "have to" do the job, as much as I would avoid it if it were for a new c lient. So I appreciate your help in refreshing my memory about the cameras. Thanks.

Reply to
Jim

I don't use many bullet cameras, but those that have pass through wiring usually have a threaded removable mounting plate, Depending on the size of the camera the thread should match either 1/2 or

3/4 rigid electrical conduit, You could use a short length of rigid conduit with a threaded coupling and attach the camera (without the mounting plate) directly to the threaded coupling. maybe use a little loctite. You may have to extend the cables which would leave the connection inside the conduit, and as someone else mentioned it makes adjusting the camera more difficult . Drill an appropriate conduit size hole through the mortar between the bricks, use a coupling sized drill and enlarge the hole the depth of the coupling. Slide the conduit through until the coupling is flush, you will have to secure it on the inside of the building to prevent it moving, you could use an electrical box but that would require the conduit be cut to an exact length and threaded so you could use a U bolt and angle iron. Use a little caulk to finish the job. I have never tired this, so at this point its just a theory, but I think it should work OK

Doug

Reply to
doug

surface flat where you will mount the equipment with just a small amount of extra flattened area to caulk around mount and box edges. Keeping in mind connectors are never a good idea to bury in a wall (which I see you already agree) but also, with the connectors of a factory pre-wired "Pigtail" you will have no way to trouble shoot or adjust the view of the camera from out side AT the camera, now it just became a TWO MAN JOB.

Great point!!!

I use a wrist monitor to adjust the camera so I don't have to go back up th e ladder. Yep, gotta put a junction box on the outside with the camera.

Reply to
Jim

usually have a threaded removable mounting plate, Depending on the size of the camera the thread should match either 1/2 or 3/4 rigid electrical condu it, You could use a short length of rigid conduit with a threaded coupling and attach the camera (without the mounting plate) directly to the threaded coupling. maybe use a little loctite. You may have to extend the cables wh ich would leave the connection inside the conduit, and as someone else ment ioned it makes adjusting the camera more difficult . Drill an appropriate c onduit size hole through the mortar between the bricks, use a coupling size d drill and enlarge the hole the depth of the coupling. Slide the conduit t hrough until the coupling is flush, you will have to secure it on the insid e of the building to prevent it moving, you could use an electrical box but that would require the conduit be cut to an exact length and threaded so y ou could use a U bolt and angle iron. Use a little caulk to finish the job. I have never tired this, so at this point its just a theory, but I think i t should work OK Doug

I don't like dome cameras because I've had too many problems with refection s from the IR emitters. I've tried a few of those "eyeball" cam's but not e nough faith in them yet to use 7/8 of them out side on a commercial buildin g.

But, the cam's I use don't have threaded couplings. The bracket is part of the body of the cam with two swivel points ..... horozontal and vertical wi th the lead fed out through the back of the mounting ring.

Reply to
Jim

I see somebody has started to think outside the box a little bit for camera mounting.

Reply to
Bob La Londe

On Thursday, March 28, 2013 2:25:40 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote: If the brick wall is that nice, don't do anything that permanently > mars it, except for the feed hole. Instead take a mold of the surface > with tha t conformal foam, like they use in packing. That stuff is like > a squishy pad. You would make it flat on the outside mounting surface > and a 'perfec t' fit on the inside towards the wall. If you want, you > could make it rig id using expandable fill-foam, cut to shape, then use > a thin sealant betw een the two. Then there's the fibre glass epoxy > method, too. That's used in boats so would be water proof and last a > while. I see somebody has sta rted to think outside the box a little bit for camera mounting.

As I said, years ago, on commercial jobs, the mounts were always on flat su rface. No fancy brickwork. I wonder what the companies that do commercial i nstalls on regular basis use nowdays. I'm thinking they just screw the brac kets to the brick however they land and use the adjustments on the mounts t o align the camera. Me? I'm to frickin fussy .... I guess.

I've even thought about renting a carbide disk cutter to flatten out a smal l section of the brick. That's what the Binford people on Tool Time would r ecommend.

Haven't been there in awhile but maybe I'll take a look over in the cctv fo rum.

Reply to
Jim

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