Got a new Altronix power supply. The punch-outs don't seem to be punched out enough. Should I be able to remove one by pushing hard from the inside with a large screw driver? Or punch with a hammer? Or, is it possible these were only partially punched? I've pushed and banged pretty hard, and they don't budge.
Best, Christopher
Some cans are worse than others. I usually use a hammer and a punch.
Some cans are worse than others. I usually use a hammer and a punch.
I ran into the same problem with a couple of units as well. I always carry a small chisle and a hammer in the van for just such an occasion. Start at the part of the insert across from the tab on the inside of the can. Once you get it to partially "open", use a pair of needlenose pliers to work away at the insert. The die Alltronix is using must be old or the guy that's operating the machine doesn't have it set correctly. I wound up with the same problem on a DSC 1864 can as well. Instead of removing the 1/2" knock out (as I intended), the 3/4" came away. Bummer.
I ran into the same problem with a couple of units as well. I always carry a small chisle and a hammer in the van for just such an occasion. Start at the part of the insert across from the tab on the inside of the can. Once you get it to partially "open", use a pair of needlenose pliers to work away at the insert. The die Alltronix is using must be old or the guy that's operating the machine doesn't have it set correctly. I wound up with the same problem on a DSC 1864 can as well. Instead of removing the 1/2" knock out (as I intended), the 3/4" came away. Bummer.
I ran into the same problem with a couple of units as well. I always carry a small chisle and a hammer in the van for just such an occasion. Start at the part of the insert across from the tab on the inside of the can. Once you get it to partially "open", use a pair of needlenose pliers to work away at the insert. The die Alltronix is using must be old or the guy that's operating the machine doesn't have it set correctly. I wound up with the same problem on a DSC 1864 can as well. Instead of removing the 1/2" knock out (as I intended), the 3/4" came away. Bummer.
I ran into the same problem with a couple of units as well. I always carry a small chisle and a hammer in the van for just such an occasion. Start at the part of the insert across from the tab on the inside of the can. Once you get it to partially "open", use a pair of needlenose pliers to work away at the insert. The die Alltronix is using must be old or the guy that's operating the machine doesn't have it set correctly. I wound up with the same problem on a DSC 1864 can as well. Instead of removing the 1/2" knock out (as I intended), the 3/4" came away. Bummer.
What he said, but be aware that in rare occasions you may still end up bending the can in ways you don't want. I give a couple of good whacks but when I get to the point that past experience tells me I am entering the danger zone I pull out the hole saw of the appropriate size.
It ticks me off to no end.
On Mar 6, 12:00=EF=BF=BDpm, "Christopher Glaeser" wrote= :
is it possible
Whenever this happens to me I always think............
I hope the SOB who's responsible for this is buried alive in a box and his only means of of getting air, is by getting one of his f*#@ing knockouts open.
I use a step drill bit this way can is not bent . problem comes down to bad punch dies not cutting properly. manufactuer should know better before shipping out.
That's kuality control for you... :)
Jim Rojas
nick markowitz wrote:
Y'know... You've really gotta wonder about some electricians. This guy's installing a fire alarm system (Edwards Quickstart). There's a knockout next to the high voltage connection terminal for the transformer on the lower left of the can. The conduit wound up terminating about 1/2" below where the knockout was. I'll give you one guess (you don't get three) where he drilled the hole rather than bending the pipe up just a little... "But it wouldn't look neat," he says... "Who cares?" I say, "It's behind the drywall. No-one's ever going to see it."
Then there's another electrician that can't take the time to read the freakin' manual. The Potter 9000 states that power for the control has to enter through one of the side knockouts provided, and the low voltage/power limited wire has to enter through the top. The conduit (for the SLIC loop comes up through the floor) which means... you guessed it... He's drilled into the bottom of the can. The AC comes from the top of the can... so why not use the convenient knockout located there... And to keep things really neat, let's tie-wrap the AC and the SLIC loop wiring together down the inside of the can... Da-ooooohhh!
Silly you.
Having lived all these years and still think that everything is going to work out right.
Could you imagine how dull life would be if that were so?
That's what happened to the Eloi.
As a result, they simply became fodder
Thanks. A hammer and long punch with the enclosure on its side over a hole did the trick.
Best, Christopher
his only means of of getting air, is by getting one of his f*#@ing knockouts open.
You know what Elvis would say if he was alive today?
... uhhh ... uhhh ... what the .... there's no air in this box.....
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