The..."oh, while your up there in the attic can you check my TV antenna" clause! Sorry, we're busy working on the alarm you contracted us to install. We'd be glad to fix that later when we're done with what you have agreed to pay us for!
Heck, usually I fix it anyway...but shure is darn annoying.
In BC - you ARE from eh Frank - all alarm technicians who have a Trades Qualification Cert can make one change to the electrical system of a building. They can install a wire-in transformer on any existing electrical outlet or suitable junction box. An extension ring can be installed if the outlet is flush mounted. But that's it folks, electricians must be called in to do everything else.
If you are a lick-and-stick company - Alarmforce are you listening? - you can get around having qualified techs by using wall warts. SNIF alarms was the same.
The only reason I now use the plug-in xfomer when possible is to provide surge protection. But plug-ins must be out of the way - basically inaccessible - or the place gets a wire-in.
Actually, the last one we did I couldn't handle the stress so I had the locksmith drill the door and he screwed up one of the 5. Glad I didn't.
| >
| > | > As far as core drilling a door... what we do is use 2 people. One as a | > | > spotter and one as a driller. The spotter just makes sure that the | > | > drill bit is going straight. Just do it very slow and constanly clean | > | > the drill bit. If you try and rush it you'll pop out. | > | >
| > | that's gotta be nerve wracking! But then you get to charge alot.;) | >
Solid core is fine if the tech knows what he is doing. One of the biggest problems with solid wire I have seen is stripping the wire with a cutting type stripper and nicking the wire and then you get a close intermittent break in the wire.
One the other hand stranded wire is less problem prone since it takes more effort to nick all the strands and overall more flexible. The danger here is that you have to use a spade or crimped connector on the end (or tin the end) so that no loose strands touch a neighboring terminal on the panel.
Bingo! The proper technique is not hard to learn. Instead of _cutting_ the insulation you use your cutter to grab and _pull_ it off the end of the conductor.
As to the other gentleman's question about flexing, in the USA most burglar alarms utilize plug-in "wall wart" transformers. The first few inches of the low voltage wire from the transformer to the control panel is exposed. The transformer is sometimes removed when the panel is being serviced, the wall is being painted or whatever. Any time that happens the wire is flexed a few times. Using stranded cable for this run simply avoids possible problems down the line.
Exactly. That will help avoid problems.
There's another reason I like using solid core wire for sensors. Solid,
22/4 cable happens to be an almost perfect fit for the 1/4" hole we would make with a feeler bit when drilling through wall headers and footers. Unlike stranded core cable, it will remain pretty straight when you poke it through, making it easier to thread the wall, especially when there are gaps like the shim space around a window or door. It's just easier to use and if you strip it right it doesn't create problems.
looks cool, used it yet? do you need one to feed wire while 1 magnapulls? or can 1 person do it. looks like it would be easy to make something like it. ya think?
I just bought it a few months ago, and have used it several times. It's a MAJOR time saver pulling through an insulated wall...the magnets are incredibly strong and you can just rip your way through, or behind the insulation. You can use it solo. Tell ya you can't believe how strong these mags are!
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