home owner needs advice

Well un-baffle yourself.

The contacts are just "dry contacts" aka no voltage. You can apply a voltage to the C(Common) Terminal and when tripped the voltage will be applied to the NO(Normally Open) terminal. Or voltage will be removed from the NC(Normally Closed)

Just be advised that the contacts are only rated at 1 amp @ 50vac and 24vdc. More than that you will need a slave relay to handle heavier loads. Make sure you check the specs of the device you are connecting to before you become unhappy with yourself. :-)

Hope that helps.

Les

CalT wrote in news:XnsA1CC62B833B83samnonenet@207.246.207.122:

I guess I should have added that we cannot put up any motion dectectors outside to sound an alarm because we live in a rural area and there are too many critters walking around day and night.

So how did you plan on triggering the Optex???

"ABLE1" wrote in news:gBpot.41720$ snipped-for-privacy@en-nntp-12.dc.easynews.com:

That explanation I understand. :o)

This is exactly what I needed to know. I can not setup a relay system for an alarm.

I might explain that I have to use something simple like the Optex deal because my wife wants no part of zones or codes or anything like it would take for a real alarm system. I have many Optex receivers and two or three transmitters coded to each one of them. The receivers are all plugged into power strips that are controlled by a single wireless remote control power outlet. All my wife has to do is press the on/off button on the key pad to activate/deactivate all the Optex Annunciators. It's Rube Goldberg at his best, but it's better than no alarms at all. These things never have false alarmed after setting the proper beam pattern.

Thanks again for answering ABLE1.

"ABLE1" wrote in news:oSpot.241704$ snipped-for-privacy@en-nntp-03.dc.easynews.com:

I haven't really thought a lot about it yet, but I guess I'll keep it simple and just have a low voltage DP relay circuit closed by the Optex. The second set of relay contacts can close the siren relay and set it off.

Welcome!!!

It means you cannot run any kind of load current through the Optex device. The only thing those terminals can be used for is to feed an alarm panel or drive a relay.

Robert Neville wrote in news:qk35q855q01vv502m6t892ug4hlap6cbeo@None:

To me the term "zero voltage input" is what threw me. I thought they meant even the small amount of voltage/mA it would take to feed a small relay coil.Maybe I watched to much Sesame Street as a kid, because zero to me means zero. None. Nada. Zilch.

I guess I'm just going to have a small small relay feed the coil of a larger one which has the capability of handling a bigger amp load needed by a siren. I'll have to find out what the current requirements are for the coil of a huskier relay.

Thanks for the input.

You only need a Altronix RBST relay board to do the trick. Don't forget you will need a large enough DC power supply to handle the load of the siren. Then you will need the proper AC txfmr to power the power supply. Then you will need a battery to back up in case of a power failure. Then before you know it you would have better off installing in a full blown Alarm Panel that would use a wireless keyfob to arm and disarm so the wife can be happy.

Good Luck

Les

On Sunday, May 26, 2013 11:10:30 AM UTC-4, ABLE1 wrote:

nenet@207.246.207.122... >I have some Optex Annunciators protecting my rear laundry room > entrances. > >

s/rctd-20u > > I need a siren to be tripped by this to scare any burglar or whomever > away before they continue on into my home. In the Optex manual it > says: > > "Terminal Connection: Any device with a zero voltage input t erminal > can be connected to this terminal. This may include electronic lo cks, > emergency sounding devices, and automatic reporting equipment." > > I do not understand the term "zero voltage input terminal". > > When the Op tex triggers on movement it senses and the NO terminals > close, how can th ey activate any relay or whatever if the terminals > cannot have a voltage applied or current running through them? > > Somewhere I am not understandi ng something here. I am used to hooking > up relays in my screwing around o ver the years, but this has me > baffled. > Well un-baffle yourself. The co ntacts are just "dry contacts" aka no voltage. You can apply a voltage to t he C(Common) Terminal and when tripped the voltage will be applied to the N O(Normally Open) terminal. Or voltage will be removed from the NC(Normally Closed) Just be advised that the contacts are only rated at 1 amp @ 50vac a nd 24vdc. More than that you will need a slave relay to handle heavier load s. Make sure you check the specs of the device you are connecting to before you become unhappy with yourself. :-) Hope that helps. Les

Just a thought .............. If you didn't look up the spec's on the Optex ( I didn't ) and you are just assuming that what you said is true, .... you may want to consider that in stead of an actual "voltage" the output of the "contacts" might be a solid state positive or negative, limited current or "logic" output, to trip an a larm zone. Not enough to power a relay coil.

For help with your Concord 4 you may want to go here.

BTW they won't need all of the extended disertation.

"ABLE1" wrote in news:li1pt.196082$6r1.17301 @en-nntp-07.dc1.easynews.com:

Well, that's what you get when you reply to no-nothing amateurs who have to make up for the lack of quality with tons of quantity. At least that's how it's done in alt.talk.naught. :o)

CalT wrote in news:XnsA1CE9E14C692Csamnonenet@

207.246.207.124:

Forgotto thank you for the link. I'm sure it will come in *very* handy.

Welcome!!

Use it to trigger a low current relay (Elk has one that will trigger at

1.2ma) and/or place a clamping diode across the terminals to protect the switch on your sensor.

ELK 924

1.2 mills to trigger 7 amps at upto 30VDC on terminals. Double Pole, Double Throw so you can trigger two different things.

Like ..... how much time out of your day do you want to have to spend tending to your alarm system? How much time do you want to spend tweeking it? If you don't want to have a professional do it then you might be able to get some ideas from them to even out the operation of the system. Don't worry about your wife. If you want security and it's set up properly you should wind up with only a few options for arming the system. She'll learn it. Obviously if you ask first, you'll only make it more complicated trying to allow for every contingency she'll bring up.

You seem to be stuck on using motion detectors outside. If motion detectors are used outside they should be used in a controlled environment. If your back yard has animals running around in it, that's not controlled. Not perfect but better is the use of photo electric beams. They can be paralleled and paralleled with motion detectors and with the proper alarm panel .... "zone anding" with multiple zones and "local alarm on first zone trip" can be used to reduce false alarms. With an appropriate camera, an IPhone and a reasonably priced DVR you can be notified by E-mail and look in on events and can look back at events. You can even utilize the motion sensing options of the DVR paralleled with your Photo beams and other devices to further "logic out" false alarms.

And all of this is available in the hookup and programing of the system. Obviously it would take some planning but usually a favorable compromise can be arrived at and it all takes place behind the scenes simply by arming the system in the home or away mode. The one thing that gets in the way is that you've taken the easy way out by buying a really inexpensive system and it's a wireless system to boot. You can't easily parallel devices with a wireless system. I'm sure you don't have the expertise to do a system like this and the learning curve is too steep a climb for a one time installation. That's why there are professionals out there. I hear your reluctance to use an alarm installation company but the chances of them even caring about what you have or don't have for nefarious purposes is so remote it's almost laughable. If you do your research properly, you'll find an accepable company to work with. And it won't be ADT.

If you want it to work and be easy to use ya gotta pay up front. You can't have a Cadilac for the price of a Kia. The Kia will get you there but everytime you don't have the pickup or comfort or convenience you know you could have had, you'll wish you'd saved up for the better car. And an alarm system is going to in your life a lot longer than a car.

Bottom line? My suggestion is to bite the bullet, put your effort and obvious tenacity into locating a professional who can provide you with the system that you need rather than wasting your time trying to learn how to install and Rube Goldburg a cheap panel that requires constant attention and fiddling and which you will probably not use to it's greatest worth in the end ..... anyway. Which ... by the way .... could very well be the reason your wife is so reluctant to have an alarm system.

Don't take this personal. I've been in this industry for 43 years. I've met you before.

===================================================================== Jim,

You just wasted a whole lot of typing time on a guy that has his mind made up and you will never convince him with the facts. I have met him as well.

BTW, Nice typing skills.

Les

I think we've all met him. Walking away politely of course. :-)

On Thursday, May 30, 2013 6:59:47 AM UTC-4, ABLE1 wrote: Jim, You just wasted a whole lot of typing time on a guy that has his mind made up and you will never convince him with the facts. I have met him as w ell. BTW, Nice typing skills. Les

Wellll,..... Just maybe...... some of it will get through, ya never know.

An aww shucks ..... tks for the complement.

There was a time here, in spite of all the in-fighting, that in all the cla tter you could occasionally find some diamonds buried in the bullshit. Ther e were threads that went on for weeks about different methods to program or install certain devices. If anyone ever wanted to expend the time and ener gy to pull all the great ideas out of the garbage that went on here, there' d be enough info to write a decent book. There were people here from all ov er the US, Some from Canada, South America, Europe, Africa, Asia. It was qu ite the "Newsgroup" There were people from various manufacturers and some o f the larger alarm companies in the US, security consultants .... some pret ty impressive people. But ..... they've all gone and the reputation from al l the BS that went on .... I guess .... still keeps them away. OR .... I ma ybe it could also be due to the gradual decline of the use of Newsgroups in favor of other types of Social Media. I occasionally look for other groups to get involved with but I haven't found any that keep my interest or they would require me to reveal personal information or name my company. So, I don't "FaceBook" or "Twitter" or Linkdin. I just don't want to spread my pe rsonal information all over the Internet, nor do I want anyone to link my p ersonal information to my company. I don't know if you've noticed or not bu t as long as I've participated in this group, no one knows who I am or my c ompany name or exactly where I'm located. I paid attention to that when I f irst got involved with ASA back in 1998 when I started posting here and ... . considering what went on here ... it's a damn good thing that I did. Ther e was someone here that if you had a disagreement, he would letter bomb you , call your neighbors, call your suppliers, spreading lies and false inform ation about you. Use your E-mail address to annoy other people, .... and th en sometimes he'd do some really nasty stuff.

So .... anyway, that's why I don't care to get involved with social media s tuff nowdays or the moderated groups.

By the way, do you know of any other groups that are similar to ASA?