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Cyclone alarm siren wiring?

Bought a cheap car alarm siren. Seller says it is Cyclone brand but no labels to that effect.

Wires: red (+), black (-), and 3 wires with a molex connector: blue, yellow, green.

Grounding the blue wire triggers a series of alarm tones that sound as long as the blue wire is grounded.

I'm trying to find out what functions the other 2 wires trigger.

Ideas?

Thanks,

Reply to
DaveC
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From what I was able to glean from a quick Google search, I believe the green and yellow leads have to do with the engine immobilizer.

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Reply to
Frank Olson

Thanks for the reply, Frank.

That one is a bit more sophisticated than what I have. Mine is a siren only, no "brain". Or the brain (such as it is) is included in the siren. Just 3 wires coming out of the siren (other than power -- red and black). These 3 other wires are blue, green, black (yes, 2 black wires).

Anyone seen these? I'll post a photo later.

Thanks,

Reply to
DaveC

A very common type of low-cost (but effective) alarm appears to be an alarm only. But there is a brain and it work on a very sinple princliple.

You hook it up to your battery only. When you engage the alarm (they usually come with two remotes) it senses ANY voltage decrease, and that causes the alarm to sound. Again, it is ingenious because if someone were to break into your car, although the breaking of the window would not set off the alarm, they would invariably open the door, causing the dome light to turn on. This slight decrease in voltage because of the dome light coming on is what causes the alarm to sound.

Although it has nothing to do with the ignition and anything that would prevent the car from starting (being hot-wired), the siren is VERY loud and might very well be enough to scare any would-be thief away.

Realisitic blinking red-lights cab be bought from radio shack for about $6. Properly inslalled, they can look VERY convincing. Also, a trip to your local car audio shop can often get you (for free) some stickers from major alarm companies (Code-Alarm, Viper, etc.) that they may have just laying around from previous jobs.

In any case, I have learned in my 25 years I have been into car audio (I am

41) that DETERANCE is everything. I have had my car broken into perhaps 9 times in my life (because I have always had large, expensive systems), but I can HONESTLY say I have never had a car invaded where there was simply a blinking red light. Thiefs are lazy. Why chance trouble when there are so many other fish in the sea. A blinking red light I KNOW has saved countless break-in attempts.

Take this advice to heart. I have worked in this industry and even spoken to ex-thiefs (well, they say they are ex-theifs). I mean, even if you have an ignition kill system or a simple voltage drop alarm, once your window is broken, there's an expense right there, whether they get your car or system. No, you want to prevent them from even breaking that first window. When I was in my 20's (and more influenced by sales people and had just had my entire $2000 system stolen) I spent $400 on a sophisticated CodeAlarm system (a car I sold with alarm 2 years later).

20 years wiser I have learned that perhaps simply the red light was all that was needed.

Keep in mind, if you do go the fake red light approach, it HAS to look real and professionaly installed. Thiefs can easily spot a fake. But done right, you can save hundreds of dollars vs. a real alarm.

My $.02,

MOSFET

Reply to
MOSFET

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