Battery Load Testing

When performing PM services, how you you guys load test sealed lead acid batteries?

I'm seeing two schools of thought around here:

Some say to disconnect the AC from the panel and let it sit for one minute, then check to ensure the battery has dropped less than 1 volt.

Some say to disconnect the battery from the panel check the voltage the battery holds at, connect a 1 amp load for a minute, remove the load and ensure the voltage has dropped less than 1 volt.

For the most part I am talking about household systems generally using FA162's-168's or commercial situations using fire rated vista's or first alerts.

Thoughts?

Reply to
JoeRaisin
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Canadian Tire (sorry, it's a "Canadian" company) sells this really nifty

12 volt battery load meter. It actually places a one amp load across the battery and gives you a voltage reading. Elk sells a battery tester but FWIW, I'd go with the $15.00 CT special... :-)
Reply to
Frank Olson

There's an extensive discussion of battery testing in a book on fire alarm system operation from the NFPA. The book is "Operation of Fire Protection Systems". Here's a link to an older release. You may find it helpful not only about batteries but fire protective systems in general.

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Reply to
Robert L Bass

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Reply to
Joe

wonder why my computer said 'spy site blocking' and didn't want me to go there when I clicked on that link?

Reply to
Joe

ps, what does PM stand for?

Reply to
Joe

There are two possible reasons:

  1. Your PC is FOS.
  2. You are.

I'm betting the PC is fine.

Reply to
Robert L Bass

ELK Products makes a decent battery life tester called ELK-BLT. I sell them online but since you're a dealer you can buy it from ADI or whichever distributor you use. Here's my URL for the unit.

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Reply to
Robert L Bass

I use these and although they are a bit expensive, you get what you pay for.

Reply to
Paul Ekins

now when I click on the link my browser says 'internet explorer cannot display the webpage' and I cannot go there.

Reply to
Joe

I have a 10 Ohm 25 watt, wirewound resistor with clipleads soldered on the end.

Disconnect the battery from the panel, put your volt meter across the battery terminals. (should read something over 12 volts) Clip the resistor across the battery terminals. Watch the voltmeter. If the reading goes below 12 volts within aprox a minute, change the battery.

Watch it .......... the resistor gets hot.

Reply to
Jim

LOL - now you tell me!

I decided to get fancy and tried to build a load tester with a built-in meter. My theory was, connect the leads and read the voltage, throw a switch to connect the load (same resistor you use) and watch how things progress. The whole thing was to be in a plastic project box from rat-shack - but I didn't think it through. Luckily I tested the circuits outside the box first so I never got to smell the melting plastic.

I now have a 12volt, 12 watt light bulb externally mounted. The box has a magnet on the back which makes it a handy meter for all my panel metering needs...

Reply to
JoeRaisin

Old school! I bet you use a Simpson 260 meter.

Reply to
mbbaker

Nah, it fell off a ladder lotsa years ago. Nostalgically I still have it down in my junk pile though.

But .... yes it is "old school"

You're gonna tell me it doesn't work .......... ?

I'll bet you have a shinny new battery tester in a bright plastic yellow case with a meter in it, that cost $50.00 ....... that contains a solid state equivalent of a 10 ohm 25 watt wirewound resistor.

Reply to
Jim

Short the terminals with a screwdriver. If it leaves a big enough pit in the blade and the battery doesn't explode, the battery was okay before you tested it.

Reply to
Just Looking

I know, that's the best way, but my boss kept giving me shit for it...

Reply to
JoeRaisin

it gives me voltage and Ah rating that I can write down on the form for proof the battery is still good. great for fire alarm inspection forms. what info does the old school tester give you for documentation?

Reply to
Joe

I'll bet you quit doing that when he stopped buying your replacement screwdrivers too...

Reply to
Frank Olson

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that's what I thought

Reply to
Joe

How can that be "proof" ?

If the meter gave you a printed form from the reading it took with a "marker" identifiying the meter and somehow identifying the battery ..... "That" might be considered proof. Anything other that that is ......... just a reading on a meter.

If I were to put a 10 ohm 25 watt resistor across the battery while monitoring the voltage and the current with a volt and ammeter and manually calculate the ampere hours ......... and enter it on the form, would that be considered proof?

Proof? Proof? Dat aint no steenking Proof!!!!!!

Reply to
Jim

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