Aritech GS 610 Shock Sensor

Hi,

I need to remove an Aritech Shock sensor from a window that is being replaced. The solution I want is to permanently remove it.

There are four wires going in, two to the intertia bit (which has ball bearings inside I think), and the two other wires are connected to either side of the sensor base.

Is it simply a case of connecting the two base wires together and the two shock sensor wires together?

Thanks

Reply to
David
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some versions had a built in switch in addition to the roller shock sensor ... you have to figure out with pair goes together (should be easy to tell by loooking at the terminal strip).

personally, I'd disable it from the panel, rather than having that live wired buried.

Reply to
Crash Gordon

The problem being that other windows may be on that zone as well.

Reply to
Frank Olson

yah, if they're looped in the wall (yuck). call the rocket scientists!

Reply to
Crash Gordon

Had one years ago where the homeowner drywalled over two bedroom windows leaving the contacts in the system. On the outside he closed in a carport to make a garage, leaving the windows exposed on the interior of the garage. Ok, once I realized what he did, fixing it wasn't much of a problem. Along with multiple windows on one drop, unloading all the crap he piled up in the garage, which hid the windows on that side to begin with, reminded me of why I hate taking over systems.

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Reply to
Bob Worthy

yah; "oh yeah!!!! I forgot to tell you we USED to have windows in the garage (this after spending 2 hours trying to figure out where those extra wires go...right?)

Reply to
Crash Gordon

When there all covered up and painted prudy, who'd to know.

Reply to
Bob Worthy

went to one a few months ago...when I get there the keypads are missing...just wires hanging out...so like where are the keypads? oh they were beeping so my hubby took them down (9 year old battery...new owners in one of my older houses). Hubby...what did you do with the keypads when you took them down...uhhhhhhhhhhhhhh (that was the 350$ uhhhhhh) He couldn't remember so we sold him new ones...but that didn't matter much because his OTHER attempt to silence the keypad beeping was to remove the main processor chip....oh shit dood. Yah...new motherboard, 2 new keypads! Nice quick repair.

he fried the panel, lost the keypads...hah...! numnuts

and remember...it ain't rocket science!

Reply to
Crash Gordon

Nuthin tew it.

Reply to
alarman

I've mentioned this here before but .... a long time ago, a DIY'er called me to trouble shoot his system. He couldn't seem to isolate the problem. He had wired the house while it was under construction and by looking at the diagram on the door of the control panel concluded that only one single wire needed to be attached to the terminal on the board ...... go out to each of the contacts in a zone in series and then one single wire from the last contact return to the panel ...... all wires behind the wall.

Try and trouble shoot THAT!

Reply to
Jim

Ha! Had the same thing many years ago. A doctor had installed his own Radio Shack system, and wired it just that way. I ended up installing a proper system, and he's still a customer.

Reply to
alarman

I took over a system that another alarm installer had wired somewhat differently. The site was the rectory of St. Mary's Catholic Church in East Hartford, CT. During construction the "professional" installer had wired all the windows and doors. The splices were made behind the sheetrock. A single twisted pair of wires was connected to the delay zone on the panel. When tested nothing worked. After a while the installer gave up and just walked away from the job. An official of the church called me to look at it.

The sensors were all NC (circuit closed with magnet present). All sensors were wired in parallel. I pulled the sensors and replaced them with NO (circuit closed when magnet is removed). That solved the problem for the time being but if they ever have a bad sensor it's going to be a real pain in the olson figuring it out.

Reply to
Robert L Bass

how about an entire house with all windows looped in walls and open circuit switches!...pita

Reply to
Crash Gordon

I found this guys problem .... it was one of those "butterfly takeoffs on his sliding glass door that was dirty. But the next time he called ...... "I was busy".....

Reply to
Jim

Ya know ......... back when I started, we used to run into a lot of open circuit jobs that had been installed in the "early" days of the industry. I've still got some of the "F" contacts and leaf springs on bakeilite. I don't know if many remember that these were originally used open circuit and evolved into closed circuit systems as they became more popular. I've got a couple of double bullet takeoffs and resetable door trips too ... the forerunner to the Ademco # 35 push button shunt contact.

What I'd like to find is what used to be called a "bell drop relay" or a "Constant ringing drop" This was a little self contained alarm "panel" in a small metal container about 4" X 4". It had a few terminals on it to which you attached a battery, a bell and an OC contact to it. When the contact closed the bell rang and locked in. It could be reset by pushing a button on the side. They were great for emergency door opening notification.

Reply to
Jim

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