Alarm Purchase Help

Some responses inline....

If the house can be wired cost effectively then go that route. These days wireless is great, and very reliable but there is an overhead down the road....transmitter batteries last 3-5 years there is one in each door/window transmitter and two in PIRs and some glassbreaks. I sell the CR123s for 6 bucks each, but if you buy them at Walgreens they're like 8 bucks each...you do the math.

Anderson windows are a PITA to post wire, btw.

A wireless goes in relatively quickly, but there are a few wires to run. A post-wired house takes much longer.

| | 2) I have no problem letting them make their money back on the install | over the life of the original contract, but I see there are many places | to get CS much cheaper (i.e. nextalarm.com). What questions do I need | to ask upfront to ensure that once my initial contract is up that I can | take my alarm system, without additional costs, to another CS? Should I | have the contract noted that they'll provide me with codes (installer | code? user code? what codes do I ask for?) upon completion of the | contract? How do I know that the equipment they'll provide is not | propriatary and will work with another CS without some sort of major | upgrade? | Kinda tricky starting off a relationship with a company asking questions about how to move on later...but...

They won't give you the Installer code (I wouldn't either) but have them put it in writing that IF you ever decide to leave after the initial term of the contract is furfilled by you that they WILL remote program the Installer code and unlock any programming lockouts so that you can move on IF you want. Any reputable company wouldn't object to doint his...if you don't owe them money or something.

First Alert products like General Alarm sells is actually Ademco stuff that can be taken-over by anyone that knows Ademco (who doesnt)..but a company like Brinks sells only proprietary stuff that cannot be taken over. There are others that do this as well...make sure you're not buying proprietary stuff that can only report to they're own company.

| 3) Where do I really need glass breaks? Cost is certainly a factor, so | I don't want glass breaks where I don't really need them. The house is | just off the street and I have nearby neighbors on all sides. The front | of the house has a clear view to the street (and to the neighbors across | the street). I have all new Anderson casement windows. I figure the | windows in the back that are 8 feet or less off the ground are definite. | What about windows near the ground right in the front of the house? Is | it necessary to glass break those? Would it be almost a total waste to | get glass breaks on windows that are 15 feet off the ground in the front | of the house? Are glass breaks the right item for Anderson casements? |

Glassbreaks are great I have them in every room of my house including the upper level...but you have to be part of the design...what is your comfort level/cost/whatever?

Anderson's if latched properly are almost impossible to jimmy opened, imo. The proper mix of contacted windows & glassbreaks is up to you, your wallet and some help from your alarm professional...if he/she is good and can think like a burglar you should be able to come up with effective coverage.

| 3a) I'm a little confused as how the Slomin's rep counted the windows. | For example, I have 2 windows right next to each other. IIRC, when the | window people put it in, it's one big piece with 2 windows that open out | from each other. The Slomins rep counted that as one window as far as | glass breaks would be concerned. But there are 2 window panes, so I | don't understand how both panes are protected. I asked a few times and | she assured me it counted as one. But, then in another room, I have a | four panel casement (one piece) and it counted as 2. Can anyone explain | that? | Acoustic glassbreaks can cover a large area...usually 15-30 feet depending on pattern, room acoustics, shutters, blinds, drapery and other stuff (sound does not travel well around corners).

| 4) Any other suggestions on additional items and position placement | (i.e. 2nd motion detector)? The house is a hi-ranch with an entrance | with stairs leading up to the bedrooms, kitchen and living room and | stairs leading down to the den.

Hard to tell without seeing a floor plan. I usually like to use a mix of glassbreaks AND motion detectors...and of course contact all exterior operable doors and windows.

| | 5) My main phone is on a VoIP service now through the cable company. I | do have a 2nd line POTS (that I'm not sure if I'm keeping long term). | If the installer says they can get it to work on VoIP, is there any | reason not to? I also figure that if someone does try to cut a cable | out back, they might only figure to cut the phone line and not realize I | might be using the cable line for phone service. Also, Verizon is | wiring this area fast and there's a chance I might wind up with phone | service over their fiber eventually, I might not have a POTS line then.

Avoid VoIP it's not reliable...it might work for a week then stop...PITA.

You definitely want your system to send a daily test signal...not weekly, not monthly...but every day.

Next Alarm... they're not real...read other posts about them...you probably wanna stay away from these guys.

Fiber won't come into your home..I have fiber up to the box down the road...it's still a regular phone line into my house.

If you're concerned about phone line cuts consider a radio backup.

| | 6)Protectamerica.com looks really cheap. What's the gimmick/catch with | them? Crappy propriatary wireless alarm system?

My grandfather had a saying: "Cheap is dear"

| | Well, I know I've asked a lot here. Hopefully, someone could take the | time out to respond. Thanks in advance to all who do.

Ask your friends/neighbors if they are happy with their alarmco. Go with someone you like...you are buying a relationship, service, knowledge - the equipment used is almost secondary (almost). I have clients that have been using us for 20 years, I've seen their kids grow up, and I've installed alarm after alarm for them as they grew from start homes to huge houses. It's not all about the money.

| | David | |

Reply to
Crash Gordon
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I may be mistaken, but I still think it's copper inside your house, not FO.

| > Avoid VoIP it's not reliable...it might work for a week then | > stop...PITA. | >

| > You definitely want your system to send a daily test signal...not | > weekly, not monthly...but every day. | >

| > Next Alarm... they're not real...read other posts about them...you | > probably wanna stay away from these guys. | >

| > Fiber won't come into your home..I have fiber up to the box down the | > road...it's still a regular phone line into my house. | >

Reply to
Crash Gordon

Sir, you have asked a lot of questions and I certainly can't answer them all in the contents of a post; however, there are a few givens that you should be cautious of:

1- There is no such thing as a "free system". Figure out your costs over five years when doing your comparison pricing between companies (get three quotes). The basic system is written off over the term of the contract; however, as you can see, add ons are usually expensive to try to make more up front. 2- Alarms currently do not work RELIABLY over VoIP. Be extremely cautious of anyone telling you otherwise ! 3- Make sure you put it in the contract that they will default the installer code back to factory at the end of the contract, or at the end of the time when you are with them, whichever comes last. Also, ensure they write in that they will unlock your panel once the system is paid for (at the end of the first term). And, if you're dealing with a small company, make that NEVER lock it ! With a big company, there's a better chance they will still be around when it's time to unlock it ! 4- The use of proprietary equipment seems to be falling out of favour. However, it does still exist, and you can only take the word of the company in this regard. Also, find out the make and model of panel they plan to install and post it here. Someone can usually tell you.. 5- Generally speaking, a hardwired system is better and more troublefree over the longer term than wireless. Although today's wireless is very good, it is usually best to go wired if possible.

There's a lot more to consider; however, the above may assist in a general way.

R.H.Campbell Home Security Metal Products Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

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Reply to
R.H.Campbell

Long Island? Isn't that Jim's neck of the woods? If you are indeed looking for a professionally installed system, he's the guy

Reply to
mikey

I'm a newbie looking for an alarm system. I really know little about alarm systems and am coming here in the hopes that I can learn enough to ensure that I get the right system.

I live on Long Island and am looking for a professionally installed system.

So far, I've contacted both General Security

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've been a happy oil customer of General Utilities for a long time now) and Slomins
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Both are very large/well known installers/monitors here on Long Island.

I need to double check some things with General, but Slomins offered a free fully hardwired system that includes a panel, keypad, siren, 1 motion detector, 1 smoke alarm, 3 door alarms and professional installation. Window breaks were $125/window and I probably need around

  1. A 2nd smoke alarm is another 0. 5 year CS contact at .95/mo. The will connect the system to a VoIP service for free (if I wanted to go that route).

Now, some questions.

1) Wired or Wireless? Forgetting about price, is fully wired a superior solution?

2) I have no problem letting them make their money back on the install over the life of the original contract, but I see there are many places to get CS much cheaper (i.e. nextalarm.com). What questions do I need to ask upfront to ensure that once my initial contract is up that I can take my alarm system, without additional costs, to another CS? Should I have the contract noted that they'll provide me with codes (installer code? user code? what codes do I ask for?) upon completion of the contract? How do I know that the equipment they'll provide is not propriatary and will work with another CS without some sort of major upgrade?

3) Where do I really need glass breaks? Cost is certainly a factor, so I don't want glass breaks where I don't really need them. The house is just off the street and I have nearby neighbors on all sides. The front of the house has a clear view to the street (and to the neighbors across the street). I have all new Anderson casement windows. I figure the windows in the back that are 8 feet or less off the ground are definite. What about windows near the ground right in the front of the house? Is it necessary to glass break those? Would it be almost a total waste to get glass breaks on windows that are 15 feet off the ground in the front of the house? Are glass breaks the right item for Anderson casements?

3a) I'm a little confused as how the Slomin's rep counted the windows. For example, I have 2 windows right next to each other. IIRC, when the window people put it in, it's one big piece with 2 windows that open out from each other. The Slomins rep counted that as one window as far as glass breaks would be concerned. But there are 2 window panes, so I don't understand how both panes are protected. I asked a few times and she assured me it counted as one. But, then in another room, I have a four panel casement (one piece) and it counted as 2. Can anyone explain that?

4) Any other suggestions on additional items and position placement (i.e. 2nd motion detector)? The house is a hi-ranch with an entrance with stairs leading up to the bedrooms, kitchen and living room and stairs leading down to the den.

5) My main phone is on a VoIP service now through the cable company. I do have a 2nd line POTS (that I'm not sure if I'm keeping long term). If the installer says they can get it to work on VoIP, is there any reason not to? I also figure that if someone does try to cut a cable out back, they might only figure to cut the phone line and not realize I might be using the cable line for phone service. Also, Verizon is wiring this area fast and there's a chance I might wind up with phone service over their fiber eventually, I might not have a POTS line then.

6)Protectamerica.com looks really cheap. What's the gimmick/catch with them? Crappy propriatary wireless alarm system?

Well, I know I've asked a lot here. Hopefully, someone could take the time out to respond. Thanks in advance to all who do.

David

Reply to
David L

Good help, thanks. No, it's not all about the price. I want a decent system, installed correctly at a competitive price. I think that's reasonable to expect and that's why I'm attempting to do the research.

Just as an FYI on the Fiber, Verizon's FIOS project is indeed FTTH. When they wire up a house, they wire the fiber right to the house and cut the copper line forever. It's costing them a fortune up front, obviously. I figure they'll get to me in the next year or two at the pace they are going.

Thanks again for your responses so far.

"Crash Gordon" wrote in news:ysr6f.3$ snipped-for-privacy@news.uswest.net:

Reply to
David L

Who is Jim and how do I reach him then?

"mikey" wrote in news:at-dnX9crOtRzcfeRVn- snipped-for-privacy@rogers.com:

Reply to
David L

OT here, but yes, it's fiber to a box at the back of the house. They don't rewire your whole house with fiber.

"Crash Gordon" wrote in news:LBs6f.20$ snipped-for-privacy@news.uswest.net:

Reply to
David L

So The Slomin's system will cost you around $ 2,957.00 Thank God it's free! Look for more dealers who'll deceive you, or find a smaller dealer who is an actual professional, not a salesman.

Reply to
Jackcsg

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com , he posts here as Jim

Reply to
mikey

Crash, please e-mail me at snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com I have a possible lead for you. js

Reply to
alarman
20P is fine. Sounds like a fair deal too.

|

Reply to
Crash Gordon

Look for a 70-year-old geezer in a checkered shirt with a pocket protector driving an orange 1978 Dodge van with no bumpers. He hangs out at Wal Mart in the vitamin aisle js

Reply to
alarman

otay

Reply to
Crash Gordon

ps. most salesmen don't know nuttin' abt alarms except how to stick their foot in your door.

when I had a sales staff, I made everyone of them actually install alarms before I let them go out and sell...that got rid of a few I tell ya.

|| | |

Reply to
Crash Gordon

Nah, he gets those at K-mart. js

Reply to
alarman

You mean the Geritol and Depends aisle don't you?

Reply to
Mark Leuck

That's what I did. I had a local dealer come in that I found on servicemagic.com.

He suggested an Ademco Vista 20P wireless system, 3 doors (the sliding french door will also get a shock), 8 windows (the ones in the rear accessible from the ground), 2 smoke detectors, 2 motion detectors, siren, slightly upgraded keypad (the one that talks and has more descriptive info), battery backup, RX31x phone jack and a keychain remote. Came to about $1100 and $26.99/mo (local and UL Listed) with a 36 month term.

He'll reset the system to default any time after 36 months. Contract renews month to month after 36 months.

Anything missing? How's the Vista 20P?

This seemed to be a pretty good deal for me.

He was much more professional and knowledgable than the Slomin's rep. He spent a good hour and a half with me on a Saturday evening.

Thanks! David

"Jackcsg" wrote in news:l9GdnbFqxshsAMfeRVn- snipped-for-privacy@adelphia.com:

Reply to
David L

Reply to
Mike Sokoly

Oh my God, Ha ha ha ha ha.......... That was rough.......

Reply to
Russell Brill

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