Alarm Panel For Detached Garage

Hi,

I am looking for a security system for my detached unheated Chicago garage. I would like a system that has a key fob where a push of the button will disarm the system AND operate the garage door. Another button on the fob would disarm the system only. I would like the system to automatically arm several minutes after all the doors are closed and no motion is detected. This would allow the garage to be protected when people come & go without having to use the keypad or press any additional buttons over the present system (garage door opener only)

The system will have a siren and 3 zones: an entry door, garage door, and motion detector. The garage system will not connected to a phone line.

I would also like the garage system to have an output that would be connected to the main house alarm panel so that when the garage system is in an alarm state it would violate a zone called garage on the main house alarm. I plan to use an EOL resistor in the garage panel in case the wire is cut. The main house alarm is monitored.

The system would function as follows:

If the garage alarm goes off when I'm home (house is disarmed), only the garage siren will go off. If the garage alarm goes off when I'm away (house is armed), the house alarm garage zone will cause an alarm, call the monitoring company, and report a garage zone violation. If the garage alarm goes off when I'm asleep (housed armed in stay mode), the house alarm goes off, I run to the keypad and see that the violation is in the garage. I can relax a bit knowing the intruder is not in the house.

Are there any alarm panels these features? My main house system is DSC

5100, but I could go with another brand for the garage. I would also appreciate any other suggestions for setting up this system.

Thanks so much! bjordan

Reply to
bjordan
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I dunno much about the DSC stuff.

But if you had a system in the main house that was partionable you could set up the house as partition 1 and the garage as partition 2. A partition has the ability to act as a totally separate alarm system but using one panel.

Yes you can do stuff like you want with the garage door too, but it gets a little tricky. I usually give the ohd a longer delay than the door into the house..but in your case you could give the mandoor a shorter delay time than the ohd. You'd probably still need a keypad in the garage (I hate keyfobs as the sole control) but you could certainly rig them up as well.

There was another similar thread on this within the past few weeks.

Reply to
Crash Gordon

Are you sure that it is a 5100 and not a 5010? the 5010 panel is partionable and will do the things you want including the auto arming.

Reply to
T. Lee

Unheated garage in Chicago...hmm...I wouldn't put a panel in there or a motion. It would probably be ok most of the time but when it gets to be -20F you're gonna have some issues. I would recomend hard wired contacts on the doors and wire them into a panel in the house.

Most of the panels are only listed for use only to 32F. Yes, you can use them to lower temps but electronics dont like it and become unreliable.

Just a thought

Reply to
jewellfish

You make a good point. down here in good ole' boy land. we have to worry more about the humidity and heat.

Reply to
T. Lee

My bad. That panel in the main house is DSC PC5010. I know I can out the garage on another partition, but that DSC is maxed out on power because I already have 4 keypads, 6 motions, and an escort voice (telephone) interface hooked up. Actually, I'm slightly over on power usage, but it works fine.

I can add an additional power to the DSC (pc5204, battery, transformer, cabinet), but I figure I can get a separate system whole system for th garage for about the same cost.

Reply to
bjordan

Add an eight zone expander to the mix and you'll have an extra eight zones you can play with. Run a single quad out to the garage, mount your zone expander there (DSC sells a small can that fits this application and which you can tamper using the expander's on board switch) and "Bob's your Uncle". Wire up a heat detector to one of the eight zones, contacts on the windows and man door, and an overhead door contact on the garage door. An OPTEX outdoor PIR may be worth lookin' at too (but since you're in the "windy city", that may not be the best option).

The extra power supply will ensure you're not maxing out the system's power (which can cause early failure) and you'll be able to add the garage on a seperate partition and have it annunciate in the house. What's more, if your main system is monitored, you can program the garage zones to communicate burg and fire. BONUS!!

Reply to
Frank Olson

Frank's right. an eight zone expander will fit the bill as it pulls it's power off the keybus. HOWEVER, if you want anything that is not a "dry contact" (ie. magnetic contact, heat detector) I would put in a seperate power supply.

Reply to
T. Lee

and common ground reference on pwr supply to main alarm

| >> I can add an additional power to the DSC (pc5204, battery, transformer, | >> cabinet), but I figure I can get a separate system whole system for th | >> garage for about the same cost. | >

| >

| > Add an eight zone expander to the mix and you'll have an extra eight zones | > you can play with. Run a single quad out to the garage, mount your zone | > expander there (DSC sells a small can that fits this application and which | > you can tamper using the expander's on board switch) and "Bob's your | > Uncle". Wire up a heat detector to one of the eight zones, contacts on | > the windows and man door, and an overhead door contact on the garage door. | > An OPTEX outdoor PIR may be worth lookin' at too (but since you're in the | > "windy city", that may not be the best option). | >

| > The extra power supply will ensure you're not maxing out the system's | > power (which can cause early failure) and you'll be able to add the garage | > on a seperate partition and have it annunciate in the house. What's more, | > if your main system is monitored, you can program the garage zones to | > communicate burg and fire. BONUS!! | |

Reply to
Crash Gordon

I'll need the extra power supply, because I'll want an LED keypad and motion detection (or two twinned) in the garage.

The PC5204 manual indicates that it pulls 20mA off the keybus. I suppose the 1A of power it adds comes off the AUX terminal. Can I jump the AUX to the incoming keybus red so that the PC5204 powers itself? I ask because the main house system (PC5010) is already maxed out on keybus power.

Also, can the PC5204 both power itself and add power back through the keybus that connects it to the panel? In other words, if a system was overtaxed on power, can a PC5204 be added to the system with the AUX connected to the system keybus?

The PC5204 manual is very brief!

T. Lee wrote:

Reply to
bjordan

My suggestion would be to put the 5204 either in the can with the main panel if room allows or put it in a can adjacent and pull the appropriate sized wires put to the garage. this will allow you to redistribute the power load on the main panel and the 5204. Take some devices off the main panel and put the 5204 on it, then power the devices you took off the main panel from the

5204 and the devices you are putting in the garage.

take the yellow and green off the keybus and power from the 5204 to the garage to run the 8 zone expander. be sure to size your wires appropriately and make sure that you don't exceed the keybus wire length limit.

Reply to
T. Lee

appropriately

There won't be room for the 5204 in the control can. Don't forget, the 5204 needs its own battery too. Also, the 5204 will use about 20 ma from the control panel's power supply, so you need to account for that in the load calcs. The 5204 will repower the keybus from that point on however, just follow the directions in the box. js

Reply to
alarman

Thanks for all the great information.

I'll go with a PC5204 in the main house and run a 4-wire conductor out to the garage. In the garage will be the magnetic sensors, 8 zone expander, and an LED keypad. All the garage stuff will be on a second partition. I hope the garage components can handle the cold.

I can also add a Street Smart Code Encryptor II keyfob in the garage, right next to the keypad. The street smart will also operate the garage door opener.

emulate a keypad. I hope it will work if the keypad it emulates is on partition 2. There is no mention of partitions in the Street Smart manual.

Reply to
bjordan

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