Re: Does a PS fan need to be completely exposed?
Bookmark this page:
 Yahoo!
 Google
 Windows Live
 del.icio.us
 digg
 Netscape
|
|
|||||||||||||
|
Posted by on March 8, 2008, 4:56 pm
Please log in for more thread options Thanks to everyone who replied. My 100W PS might have been powerful enough for the original computer, but I have added 2 hard drives, a better video card, and a whole bunch of external USB devices, including external drives. I likely overloaded it. I do not have bad caps, at least none are domed or bulging. I probably just overloaded the PS. Someone mentioned a nibbler. What is that? (I know it's some sort of metal cutting tool), but where do I get something like that? Right now I am doing ok with the PS sitting outside the computer case, but I have the cover off and it's a mess of parts. I cant leave it like this. A friend brought me a power supply yesterday. It's a 200W and it will fit in the case. All I will have to do is drill two 1/8" screw holes since the PS is a little wider. The only problem is whether this PS is ok. He said the computer worked until his hard drive died. He got a newer computer, and had this old one sitting outside in the snow because the trashmen would not take it. The PS was inside the case, so it was not full of snow. I have the whole computer in my house near a heat register. I want to make sure it's completely dry before I do anything with it. It looks like that PS will be a perfect fit. That reminds me. How does someone test these ATX power supplies. The old AT PSs could be plugged in and the fan would turn and one could measure voltages. These ATX ones have the switch thru the MB so nothing happens. I am a little hesitant to connect this to my MB since it was outside and somewhat wet. Are there certain wires to cross on the MB plug to make them power up, so voltages can be tested? Which wires? I think 200W should be fine since 100W was working before. I know I dont really need 300W. I'd just like to test this PS before I connect it to the computer. I considered using a larger case, but this IBM has special slide out drive brackets that I like. I can pull out drives really easily, and that is a great feature. Thanks again. Dave | |||||||||||||
|
Posted by Paul on March 8, 2008, 6:13 pm
Please log in for more thread options >
>> Since your old supply was rated at 100W, the new supply won't be asked
>> to deliver more than that. The efficiency of the supply, determines how >> much waste heat the supply would produce. The supply will adjust the >> fan speed, according to the level of heating, so up to a point, can >> compensate for less than ideal airflow. >> >> To give an example, my current computer has a large separate exhaust fan. >> The power supply also exhausts. It means the two of them, fight for the >> same supply of cooling air. If the power supply wanted to, it could >> compensate by increasing the fan speed. I can still feel air >> coming from the PSU exhaust, so the situation is not so bad that air >> is being drawn through the power supply backwards. >> >> Since the power supply doesn't have a monitoring facility, there is no >> easy way to tell how stressful any installation is. For controlled >> fans, they might run at minimum speed, up to a relatively high internal >> air temperature. Which means, when you aren't compromising their airflow, >> they would run cooler than the threshold of that fan curve. >> >> Another thing about a half covered fan, is the noise factor. If there >> is an impeding surface next to the blades, you could get some additional >> noise from that. >> >> I like to repackage computers, when the current packaging no longer suits. >> For some computers like that, they are non standard enough, to make >> such an option unpleasant. (Weird shaped motherboards, non-standard >> PANEL header etc.) >> >> Leaving the supply up on top is an option, if the cables are long enough. >> That means the power wires can function as an antenna, transferring >> internal electromagnetic interference, into the air. If you have >> a television receiving a broadcast signal, it might upset that a bit, >> or upset a neighbour's reception. >> >> You should also think carefully, about how the cooling in the box >> works, and what the designer's intentions were. If removing the >> supply entirely from the case, you'd no longer have a fan to move >> the air. In which case, you'd purchase a separate case fan of the appropriate >> size, and use that to replace what the old PSU used to do. >> >> Changing the direction of airflow, might mean that a sensitive item >> (like your hard drive), gets more or less air than it used to. But >> without a picture of the machine, it is hard to say what the consequences >> might be. Some prebuilt computers, make you ask the question "what >> were they thinking" when it comes to cooling, so sometimes their >> ideas are not worth preserving. >> >> Paul >
> Thanks to everyone who replied. My 100W PS might have been powerful > enough for the original computer, but I have added 2 hard drives, a > better video card, and a whole bunch of external USB devices, > including external drives. I likely overloaded it. I do not have bad > caps, at least none are domed or bulging. I probably just overloaded > the PS. > > Someone mentioned a nibbler. What is that? (I know it's some sort of > metal cutting tool), but where do I get something like that? > > Right now I am doing ok with the PS sitting outside the computer case, > but I have the cover off and it's a mess of parts. I cant leave it > like this. > > A friend brought me a power supply yesterday. It's a 200W and it will > fit in the case. All I will have to do is drill two 1/8" screw holes > since the PS is a little wider. The only problem is whether this PS > is ok. He said the computer worked until his hard drive died. He got > a newer computer, and had this old one sitting outside in the snow > because the trashmen would not take it. The PS was inside the case, > so it was not full of snow. I have the whole computer in my house > near a heat register. I want to make sure it's completely dry before > I do anything with it. It looks like that PS will be a perfect fit. > > That reminds me. How does someone test these ATX power supplies. The > old AT PSs could be plugged in and the fan would turn and one could > measure voltages. These ATX ones have the switch thru the MB so > nothing happens. I am a little hesitant to connect this to my MB > since it was outside and somewhat wet. Are there certain wires to > cross on the MB plug to make them power up, so voltages can be tested? > Which wires? > > I think 200W should be fine since 100W was working before. I know I > dont really need 300W. I'd just like to test this PS before I connect > it to the computer. > > I considered using a larger case, but this IBM has special slide out > drive brackets that I like. I can pull out drives really easily, and > that is a great feature. > > Thanks again. > > Dave Quick feedback. Water and electricity ? Sounds like a recipe for disaster. If the supply you've been given was 200W, it may have come from an Emachine. There were certain of those, that when they fail, they ruin the motherboard, as well as the supply. What brand name appears on the supply you have ? A nibbling tool is suited to cutting thin aluminum. A computer case made from thick steel, would not easily be cut by a nibbler, and would ruin the blade. (At least my nibbler, is not rated for work like that.) This is the same model I've got. A nibbler is ideal for small aluminum project boxes, where you want to make a neat square hole. http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Nibbling-Tool/dp/B0002KRACO/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1205016353&sr=8-1 To test an ATX power supply - 1) Provide a small load. If you have a couple old hard drives that are no longer of value to you, connect two drives as a bit of load for the power supply. 2) Connect PS_ON# to COM with a wire or paper clip. As long as the switch is on at the back, now you'll hear the PSU fan start to spin. 3) Measure voltages with a multimeter. That is not a load test, and you don't know if the supply would work correctly when a full load is applied. This device provides a small load, and would connect the PS_ON# signal to COM for you. Then, all you'd need, is to use your multimeter to check the DC voltage levels on the ATX supply pins. http://www.startech.com/Product/ItemDetail.aspx?productid=PSUTEST20&c=CA Power supply pinouts can be found in the following documents. These will help you identify the PS_ON# wire. http://web.archive.org/web/20030424061333/http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/atx/ATX_ATX12V_PS_1_1.pdf http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/atx/ATX12V_1_3dg.pdf http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/ATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf Paul | |||||||||||||
|
Posted by on March 9, 2008, 4:07 am
Please log in for more thread options
>davepoint@no-email.com wrote:
>>
>>> Since your old supply was rated at 100W, the new supply won't be asked
>>> to deliver more than that. The efficiency of the supply, determines how >>> much waste heat the supply would produce. The supply will adjust the >>> fan speed, according to the level of heating, so up to a point, can >>> compensate for less than ideal airflow. >>> >>> To give an example, my current computer has a large separate exhaust fan. >>> The power supply also exhausts. It means the two of them, fight for the >>> same supply of cooling air. If the power supply wanted to, it could >>> compensate by increasing the fan speed. I can still feel air >>> coming from the PSU exhaust, so the situation is not so bad that air >>> is being drawn through the power supply backwards. >>> >>> Since the power supply doesn't have a monitoring facility, there is no >>> easy way to tell how stressful any installation is. For controlled >>> fans, they might run at minimum speed, up to a relatively high internal >>> air temperature. Which means, when you aren't compromising their airflow, >>> they would run cooler than the threshold of that fan curve. >>> >>> Another thing about a half covered fan, is the noise factor. If there >>> is an impeding surface next to the blades, you could get some additional >>> noise from that. >>> >>> I like to repackage computers, when the current packaging no longer suits. >>> For some computers like that, they are non standard enough, to make >>> such an option unpleasant. (Weird shaped motherboards, non-standard >>> PANEL header etc.) >>> >>> Leaving the supply up on top is an option, if the cables are long enough. >>> That means the power wires can function as an antenna, transferring >>> internal electromagnetic interference, into the air. If you have >>> a television receiving a broadcast signal, it might upset that a bit, >>> or upset a neighbour's reception. >>> >>> You should also think carefully, about how the cooling in the box >>> works, and what the designer's intentions were. If removing the >>> supply entirely from the case, you'd no longer have a fan to move >>> the air. In which case, you'd purchase a separate case fan of the appropriate >>> size, and use that to replace what the old PSU used to do. >>> >>> Changing the direction of airflow, might mean that a sensitive item >>> (like your hard drive), gets more or less air than it used to. But >>> without a picture of the machine, it is hard to say what the consequences >>> might be. Some prebuilt computers, make you ask the question "what >>> were they thinking" when it comes to cooling, so sometimes their >>> ideas are not worth preserving. >>> >>> Paul >>
>> Thanks to everyone who replied. My 100W PS might have been powerful >> enough for the original computer, but I have added 2 hard drives, a >> better video card, and a whole bunch of external USB devices, >> including external drives. I likely overloaded it. I do not have bad >> caps, at least none are domed or bulging. I probably just overloaded >> the PS. >> >> Someone mentioned a nibbler. What is that? (I know it's some sort of >> metal cutting tool), but where do I get something like that? >> >> Right now I am doing ok with the PS sitting outside the computer case, >> but I have the cover off and it's a mess of parts. I cant leave it >> like this. >> >> A friend brought me a power supply yesterday. It's a 200W and it will >> fit in the case. All I will have to do is drill two 1/8" screw holes >> since the PS is a little wider. The only problem is whether this PS >> is ok. He said the computer worked until his hard drive died. He got >> a newer computer, and had this old one sitting outside in the snow >> because the trashmen would not take it. The PS was inside the case, >> so it was not full of snow. I have the whole computer in my house >> near a heat register. I want to make sure it's completely dry before >> I do anything with it. It looks like that PS will be a perfect fit. >> >> That reminds me. How does someone test these ATX power supplies. The >> old AT PSs could be plugged in and the fan would turn and one could >> measure voltages. These ATX ones have the switch thru the MB so >> nothing happens. I am a little hesitant to connect this to my MB >> since it was outside and somewhat wet. Are there certain wires to >> cross on the MB plug to make them power up, so voltages can be tested? >> Which wires? >> >> I think 200W should be fine since 100W was working before. I know I >> dont really need 300W. I'd just like to test this PS before I connect >> it to the computer. >> >> I considered using a larger case, but this IBM has special slide out >> drive brackets that I like. I can pull out drives really easily, and >> that is a great feature. >> >> Thanks again. >> >> Dave >
>Quick feedback. > >Water and electricity ? Sounds like a recipe for disaster. > >If the supply you've been given was 200W, it may have come >from an Emachine. There were certain of those, that when they >fail, they ruin the motherboard, as well as the supply. >What brand name appears on the supply you have ? > >A nibbling tool is suited to cutting thin aluminum. A computer >case made from thick steel, would not easily be cut by a nibbler, >and would ruin the blade. (At least my nibbler, is not rated >for work like that.) This is the same model I've got. A >nibbler is ideal for small aluminum project boxes, where you >want to make a neat square hole. > >http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Nibbling-Tool/dp/B0002KRACO/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1205016353&sr=8-1 > >To test an ATX power supply - > >1) Provide a small load. If you have a couple old hard drives > that are no longer of value to you, connect two drives as a > bit of load for the power supply. > >2) Connect PS_ON# to COM with a wire or paper clip. As long as > the switch is on at the back, now you'll hear the PSU fan > start to spin. > >3) Measure voltages with a multimeter. > >That is not a load test, and you don't know if the supply would >work correctly when a full load is applied. > >This device provides a small load, and would connect the PS_ON# >signal to COM for you. Then, all you'd need, is to use your >multimeter to check the DC voltage levels on the ATX supply >pins. > >http://www.startech.com/Product/ItemDetail.aspx?productid=PSUTEST20&c=CA > >Power supply pinouts can be found in the following documents. >These will help you identify the PS_ON# wire. > >http://web.archive.org/web/20030424061333/http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/atx/ATX_ATX12V_PS_1_1.pdf > >http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/atx/ATX12V_1_3dg.pdf > >http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/ATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf > > Paul I agree about the water, but as I said, it's dry now. Having it on a heat register for the last 24 hours made sure it was dry. I dont think it really got all that wet anyhow, the case was shut, but some snow blew into the drive port holes. It could have blown into the fan though. I opened it and only saw moisture inside which was mostly from bring it into the house from the cold. The drive is a ASTEC Model ATX202-3515 Looks like it was made in 1997, date code says 9723. A upc sticker says 10/16/97. My computer is an IBM Netvista 1000mhz PIII made in 2000. It came with Win2k, but I run Win98se on it, since I wont use any M.S. OS above Win98se. I did not buy it in 2000, I bought it used in 2006 and the seller left Win2K on it, but just the OS, nothing else. It was just a 10giig drive anyhow, so I just left 2K on that drive and installed another larger drive. It's been a good computer and fast enough for my needs, except for when it started to reboot whenever it wanted to. It has not done that with the new PS. This computer is a homebuilt at this point. Aside from the case, MB with CPU, and floppy drive, nothing else is original anymore. What PS came with an Emachine? This 200W PS is a perfect fit, even has the fan on the inside like the old one, it just needs the two screw holes drilled because this PS is abotu one inch thicker. Otherwise it's identical in size. I hope it will work. Besides fitting, it has 5 of the 4 wire drive plugs. The old PS only had 3 and I had to use a bunch of Y adaptors to power everything. Thanks for the nibbler info and the hotwiring the plug links. I have not looked at those sites yet because I am downloading something large and being on dialup, I know better than to download too many things at one time. I have several bad hard drives that will be a good load on it. They still spin, just have lots of errors. I'll let you know how this PS measures out with my multimeter. | |||||||||||||
|
Posted by philo on March 13, 2008, 7:25 am
Please log in for more thread options
>
> >davepoint@no-email.com wrote:
> >>
how
> >>> Since your old supply was rated at 100W, the new supply won't be asked > >>> to deliver more than that. The efficiency of the supply, determines > >>> much waste heat the supply would produce. The supply will adjust the
fan.
> >>> fan speed, according to the level of heating, so up to a point, can > >>> compensate for less than ideal airflow. > >>> > >>> To give an example, my current computer has a large separate exhaust > >>> The power supply also exhausts. It means the two of them, fight for
the
> >>> same supply of cooling air. If the power supply wanted to, it could
internal
> >>> compensate by increasing the fan speed. I can still feel air > >>> coming from the PSU exhaust, so the situation is not so bad that air > >>> is being drawn through the power supply backwards. > >>> > >>> Since the power supply doesn't have a monitoring facility, there is no > >>> easy way to tell how stressful any installation is. For controlled > >>> fans, they might run at minimum speed, up to a relatively high > >>> air temperature. Which means, when you aren't compromising their
airflow,
> >>> they would run cooler than the threshold of that fan curve.
additional
> >>> > >>> Another thing about a half covered fan, is the noise factor. If there > >>> is an impeding surface next to the blades, you could get some > >>> noise from that.
suits.
> >>> > >>> I like to repackage computers, when the current packaging no longer > >>> For some computers like that, they are non standard enough, to make
enough.
> >>> such an option unpleasant. (Weird shaped motherboards, non-standard > >>> PANEL header etc.) > >>> > >>> Leaving the supply up on top is an option, if the cables are long > >>> That means the power wires can function as an antenna, transferring
appropriate
> >>> internal electromagnetic interference, into the air. If you have > >>> a television receiving a broadcast signal, it might upset that a bit, > >>> or upset a neighbour's reception. > >>> > >>> You should also think carefully, about how the cooling in the box > >>> works, and what the designer's intentions were. If removing the > >>> supply entirely from the case, you'd no longer have a fan to move > >>> the air. In which case, you'd purchase a separate case fan of the > >>> size, and use that to replace what the old PSU used to do.
consequences
> >>> > >>> Changing the direction of airflow, might mean that a sensitive item > >>> (like your hard drive), gets more or less air than it used to. But > >>> without a picture of the machine, it is hard to say what the > >>> might be. Some prebuilt computers, make you ask the question "what
> >>> were they thinking" when it comes to cooling, so sometimes their > >>> ideas are not worth preserving. > >>> > >>> Paul > >> > >> Thanks to everyone who replied. My 100W PS might have been powerful > >> enough for the original computer, but I have added 2 hard drives, a > >> better video card, and a whole bunch of external USB devices, > >> including external drives. I likely overloaded it. I do not have bad > >> caps, at least none are domed or bulging. I probably just overloaded > >> the PS. > >> > >> Someone mentioned a nibbler. What is that? (I know it's some sort of > >> metal cutting tool), but where do I get something like that? > >> > >> Right now I am doing ok with the PS sitting outside the computer case, > >> but I have the cover off and it's a mess of parts. I cant leave it > >> like this. > >> > >> A friend brought me a power supply yesterday. It's a 200W and it will > >> fit in the case. All I will have to do is drill two 1/8" screw holes > >> since the PS is a little wider. The only problem is whether this PS > >> is ok. He said the computer worked until his hard drive died. He got > >> a newer computer, and had this old one sitting outside in the snow > >> because the trashmen would not take it. The PS was inside the case, > >> so it was not full of snow. I have the whole computer in my house > >> near a heat register. I want to make sure it's completely dry before > >> I do anything with it. It looks like that PS will be a perfect fit. > >> > >> That reminds me. How does someone test these ATX power supplies. The > >> old AT PSs could be plugged in and the fan would turn and one could > >> measure voltages. These ATX ones have the switch thru the MB so > >> nothing happens. I am a little hesitant to connect this to my MB > >> since it was outside and somewhat wet. Are there certain wires to > >> cross on the MB plug to make them power up, so voltages can be tested? > >> Which wires? > >> > >> I think 200W should be fine since 100W was working before. I know I > >> dont really need 300W. I'd just like to test this PS before I connect > >> it to the computer. > >> > >> I considered using a larger case, but this IBM has special slide out > >> drive brackets that I like. I can pull out drives really easily, and > >> that is a great feature. > >> > >> Thanks again. > >> > >> Dave > >
> >Quick feedback. > > > >Water and electricity ? Sounds like a recipe for disaster. > > > >If the supply you've been given was 200W, it may have come > >from an Emachine. There were certain of those, that when they > >fail, they ruin the motherboard, as well as the supply. > >What brand name appears on the supply you have ? > > > >A nibbling tool is suited to cutting thin aluminum. A computer > >case made from thick steel, would not easily be cut by a nibbler, > >and would ruin the blade. (At least my nibbler, is not rated > >for work like that.) This is the same model I've got. A > >nibbler is ideal for small aluminum project boxes, where you > >want to make a neat square hole. > > >
sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1205016353&sr=8-1
>http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Nibbling-Tool/dp/B0002KRACO/ref=pd_bbs_ > >
> >To test an ATX power supply - > > > >1) Provide a small load. If you have a couple old hard drives > > that are no longer of value to you, connect two drives as a > > bit of load for the power supply. > > > >2) Connect PS_ON# to COM with a wire or paper clip. As long as > > the switch is on at the back, now you'll hear the PSU fan > > start to spin. > > > >3) Measure voltages with a multimeter. > > > >That is not a load test, and you don't know if the supply would > >work correctly when a full load is applied. > > > >This device provides a small load, and would connect the PS_ON# > >signal to COM for you. Then, all you'd need, is to use your > >multimeter to check the DC voltage levels on the ATX supply > >pins. > > > >http://www.startech.com/Product/ItemDetail.aspx?productid=PSUTEST20&c=CA > > > >Power supply pinouts can be found in the following documents. > >These will help you identify the PS_ON# wire. > > >
per/specs/atx/ATX_ATX12V_PS_1_1.pdf
>http://web.archive.org/web/20030424061333/http://www.formfactors.org/develo > >
> >http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/atx/ATX12V_1_3dg.pdf > > > >http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/ATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf > > > > Paul >
> I agree about the water, but as I said, it's dry now. Having it on a > heat register for the last 24 hours made sure it was dry. I dont > think it really got all that wet anyhow, the case was shut, but some > snow blew into the drive port holes. It could have blown into the fan > though. I opened it and only saw moisture inside which was mostly > from bring it into the house from the cold. > > The drive is a ASTEC Model ATX202-3515 > Looks like it was made in 1997, date code says 9723. A upc sticker > says 10/16/97. My computer is an IBM Netvista 1000mhz PIII made in > 2000. It came with Win2k, but I run Win98se on it, since I wont use > any M.S. OS above Win98se. I did not buy it in 2000, I bought it used > in 2006 and the seller left Win2K on it, but just the OS, nothing > else. It was just a 10giig drive anyhow, so I just left 2K on that > drive and installed another larger drive. It's been a good computer > and fast enough for my needs, except for when it started to reboot > whenever it wanted to. It has not done that with the new PS. > > This computer is a homebuilt at this point. Aside from the case, MB > with CPU, and floppy drive, nothing else is original anymore. > > What PS came with an Emachine? > > This 200W PS is a perfect fit, even has the fan on the inside like the > old one, it just needs the two screw holes drilled because this PS is > abotu one inch thicker. Otherwise it's identical in size. I hope it > will work. Besides fitting, it has 5 of the 4 wire drive plugs. The > old PS only had 3 and I had to use a bunch of Y adaptors to power > everything. > > Thanks for the nibbler info and the hotwiring the plug links. I have > not looked at those sites yet because I am downloading something large > and being on dialup, I know better than to download too many things at > one time. I have several bad hard drives that will be a good load on > it. They still spin, just have lots of errors. > > I'll let you know how this PS measures out with my multimeter. > Here is the tool I use http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/nibblingtool.php It will cut steel with no problem. I've been using mine for years. I recommend you wear a light glove though. as unless you have been using one for years as I have... you may get blisters | |||||||||||||
| Similar Threads | Posted |
| Re: Does a PS fan need to be completely exposed? | March 7, 2008, 5:35 pm |
| Re: Does a PS fan need to be completely exposed? | March 8, 2008, 4:56 pm |
| PC completely locks/hangs up | June 3, 2007, 12:29 pm |
| Laptop sudden shut off, completely - help please | September 26, 2005, 8:48 am |
>to deliver more than that. The efficiency of the supply, determines how
>much waste heat the supply would produce. The supply will adjust the
>fan speed, according to the level of heating, so up to a point, can
>compensate for less than ideal airflow.
>
>To give an example, my current computer has a large separate exhaust fan.
>The power supply also exhausts. It means the two of them, fight for the
>same supply of cooling air. If the power supply wanted to, it could
>compensate by increasing the fan speed. I can still feel air
>coming from the PSU exhaust, so the situation is not so bad that air
>is being drawn through the power supply backwards.
>
>Since the power supply doesn't have a monitoring facility, there is no
>easy way to tell how stressful any installation is. For controlled
>fans, they might run at minimum speed, up to a relatively high internal
>air temperature. Which means, when you aren't compromising their airflow,
>they would run cooler than the threshold of that fan curve.
>
>Another thing about a half covered fan, is the noise factor. If there
>is an impeding surface next to the blades, you could get some additional
>noise from that.
>
>I like to repackage computers, when the current packaging no longer suits.
>For some computers like that, they are non standard enough, to make
>such an option unpleasant. (Weird shaped motherboards, non-standard
>PANEL header etc.)
>
>Leaving the supply up on top is an option, if the cables are long enough.
>That means the power wires can function as an antenna, transferring
>internal electromagnetic interference, into the air. If you have
>a television receiving a broadcast signal, it might upset that a bit,
>or upset a neighbour's reception.
>
>You should also think carefully, about how the cooling in the box
>works, and what the designer's intentions were. If removing the
>supply entirely from the case, you'd no longer have a fan to move
>the air. In which case, you'd purchase a separate case fan of the appropriate
>size, and use that to replace what the old PSU used to do.
>
>Changing the direction of airflow, might mean that a sensitive item
>(like your hard drive), gets more or less air than it used to. But
>without a picture of the machine, it is hard to say what the consequences
>might be. Some prebuilt computers, make you ask the question "what
>were they thinking" when it comes to cooling, so sometimes their
>ideas are not worth preserving.
>
> Paul