x10 activehome pro

I assume you upgraded to the CM15A from the CM11A. Did you check the box in each timer to have it downloaded to the interface? Do you have the time zone properly specified in your computer OS? Have you added any signal suckers recently? i.e. TV set, computer, Uninterruptable Power Supply, etc.? Do you have a phase coupler installed? Do you have transceive enabled for all house codes that you use? Do you have more than one transceiver installed? (Not a good idea unless you isolate them from each other)

It's been too long for my enfeebled memory to recall the details and I no longer have the X-10 software installed but I vaguely recall there was a checkbox that wasn't very clearly labelled that you needed to check in order to make use of timers. (I think it had to do with storing them in EEPROM. I do recall that I answered a similar question a couple of times shortly after the CM15A was introduced so you might find it with a search of this newsgroup using my name and "CM15A" (and maybe "AHP").

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John, & Dave, thank you for your replies. In answer to your questions and suggestions: Yes, the box is checked to d/l to interface Yes the time zone is correct Signal suckers? I do have TV's, computer and a power supply for power outages. I have a capacitor installed to link the phases. The transceiver enabled box was on auto and I changed it to "specific" and selected "A" I only have one Transceiver. New symptom: now the switches do not work either the screen of the Active Home Pro but the hand held remotes work just fine. Thanks again.

It sounds like you are having USB interface problems. Set the monitored house code to A and do a download to the interface. Change the state of a light using an RF type control (palm pad etc) and see if the state change is reflected in the AHP screen display of that module. If you are using an external USB hub, change the connection so the CM15A is connected directly to the computer. There have been reports of the USB interface going to sleep. So far it hasn't happened to mine but the only cure that I have heard is to unplug the unit and remove the batteries.

Are you aware of the X10 forum?

To my knowledge all Usenet groups prefer bottom posting.

You don't have to download the timers. They are stored in non-volatile memory (EEPROM). You do have to connect the cable to the computer so that the clock in the CM15A can be set to the current time. The time was lost when the batteries were removed. Your interface does not appear to be sleeping, however, since the graphic display is responding to changes initiated by a handheld controller. I am out of ideas to explain your problem. There is only one PLC line transmitter in the CM15A. It is triggered either by an RF signal going through the repeater or by an internal timer or by manually changing the state of a graphic in AHP.

John

John, I have a Cyber Power 525sl "intelligent backup power" unit plugged into the wall outlet. It has a bunch of things plugged into it. I'll need some kind of power strip to replace it because I don't have enough outlets. Is there some kind of filter that I can plug the back up unit in to?

I have several AF100 filters isolating APC UPSs and one AF300 isolating an entire circuit at the power panel.

gives a description of them and is also where I purchased them.

Hi John, I went to the site and read about the items. It appeared to be an adobe format without links to purchase the products. In my searches, I found similar products from smarthome. It was a phase coupler and filter and a booster that plugged into a electric dryer plug. I think it was $79. Will that help my activehome pro work again?

Here is a link to the store on the site for filters.

I use AF100 filters on 4 different appliances and the XPF filter on an entire circuit.

I think you said that you already had a capacitor across the phases so I'm not sure that the $79. device would help.

You need a filter on each appliance that is reducing the level of the X10 signal. APC UPSs are almost a short circuit for the X10

120 KHz signal. Many TV sets and most computer power supplies also are a significant load on the X10 signal.

If you don't have a meter to measure X10 signal levels, you can verify that the phase coupling capacitor is doing the job by testing with an electric clothes dryer or an electric range to see if it has any effect on X10 operation. Since both of those appliances operate on 240 volts and use a resistance heating element, they provide a good coupling of the X10 signal between phases when they are in operation.

I use the ELK ESM1 tester to measure X10 signal levels.

John

Before spending money on a coupler that you may or may not need, get an ELK ESM1 X-10 Signal Strength Meter. You can "borrow" one from Automated Outlet.

The thread has become rather confused and hard to follow but it would seem that your problems are not related to the need for a coupler.

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A good solution to the question of "Is it coupling problem?" that can also be part of a wiring upgrade to better accommodate Powerline Control (PLC : x-10, INSTEON, UPB) can be implemented for $5 and an hour's work by installing a junction box with duplex outlets connected to each phase immediately adjacent to the entrance panel.

Then test X-10 performance with each phase. Because you are near the main panel, you can also can also handily reach the breaker panel to remove/isolate branch circuits to determine which have devices that attenuate the X-10 signal excessively or contribute noise.

If you also install a second double switch box in line with the outlets, you can install an (eg) ACT CR230 coupler in compliance with US National Electrical Code (NEC) should it turn out that one is needed.

ABIK, a coupler requires separate circuit breakers. Another approach is to arrange the circuits in the panel so that all circuits with Powerline Control devices (X-10, INSTEON, UPB) are on the same phase. You might want to have an electrician assess/do this, because there are load distribution requirements that need to be met/maintained.

See

As shown in the second photo of my installation, this is also a good place to install/park an Elk ESM and(or) ACT Scopetest2

HTH ... Marc Marc_F_Hult

Hmm. If you do that you ought to use bridged breakers to make certain that both phases are dead while working in the box.

It seems like a good idea, Marc, but I'd also check with the local inspector to make sure they will approve it unless you're only using this as a temporary testing point. The only issue about which I'm concerned is the matter of two phases in a box supplying 110V outlets. There is the possibility that a future owner or worker may switch off only one breaker, think the box is dead and get a shock.

I would use a bridged pair of breakers for the same reason mentioned above.

Yes. Good points. That's what I did. I also used red and black wires for the hot conductors which is another indicator that the two outlets might be on two different circuits, and, in this case, on different phases.

As I understand it, and according to Leviton's instructions for their phase coupler(s) -- I've had two different Leviton couplers -- the US National Electrical Code (NEC) requires double pole ("bridged") breakers for the X-10 phase coupler.

For example, the Leviton product bulletin for the HCA02-10E "System Amplifier/ Repeater/Coupler Module With Test Signal Generator" states clearly:

"Connects to a 15A double-pole breaker or two 15A S.P. breakers equipped with handle tie to attach two 120V legs in main panel box". I powered the 'test points' of the duplex outlets from the circuit for the ACT X-10 phase coupler. So tripping the breaker for one phase opens up both sets of outlets. Our local electrical inspector has seen this setup at least twice and approved w/ sticker additions to panel. (There was other, much more extensive work done during remodeling.)

As always, folks would be wise to know what the inspector for their Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) for the NEC might have to say about the matter. That's the opinion that ultimately matters most wrt code compliance.

... Marc Marc_F_Hult

Thanks John, It appears that moving the Acitvehome pro unit away from the computer and in a more central area did the trick. I didn't have a handle on how it worked and I thought that it also had to be plugged into a port of the computer. Because some lights a timed to go on and off at night etc. it may take me a few attempts to verify all of my events. Thanks again, Tim fm CT

Marc, Robert and Dave, Wow, so much of that is over my head. I think it's been twenty years since I inserted the capacitor between phases. Then I haven't dealt with this stuff since. So, now I recall enough to be dangerous. (vbg) You might get a kick out of this. The last time I couldn't help from x-10 people which was before I found you guys, I got so annoyed with x-10 I bought the smarthome automation system AND COULDN'T FIGURE OUT HOW TO PROGRAM IT. Thank goodness I'm older and retired and don't let so many things annoy me. LIFE IS GOOD. Thanks again for helping me. Tim fm CT

Thanks Marc,

Knowing you I figured you got it right. :^) I just wanted to make sure newbies know about the safety issue. Done right it's entirely safe. Also, I agree completely about consulting the local AHJ. If you approach them right those guys can be a very valuable resource (well, some of them can; the rest are a royal...:^)).

I am new to the group but I have been using X-10 in my home for many years. I had my phases coupled with a capacitor. Somewhat recently I began to make another expansion of my system. I began to experience problems. Filters did not seem to help. I finally ended up buying a meter to check signal strength. The problem was low signal strength. Electric heaters really absorb the signal as do motion floods. I added a bridge amplifier from Smarthome.com and that has resolved the problems.

My old controller which is still working well is a SmartLink with Plato software. I bought a second home and wanted a new controller. I am not very pleased with the one from Smarthome.com. After reading this I went to X-10's site and ordered the activehome pro. I hope this was a wise decision.