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Problem With X10 Transceiver Module (RR501)

I got this thing many years ago in a group-buy of new X10 stuff from X10.com. Never needed it until now. I need and extra lamp module and figured I could just use this. No need for radio-control, just want control from normal, wired controllers.

But the thing does not appear to be working. In the online manual, I read:

  1. Plug the RR501 Transceiver into any 120V AC outlet. Fully extend its antenna.
  2. Use a dime to set the Housecode dial on the RR501 to match the X10 Modules and remote control you will be using it with.
  3. Set the slide switch on the RR501 to the code you want it to respond to (1 or 9).
  4. Plug a lamp or appliance into the outlet on the RR501 (observe the ratings on the back of the RR501).
  5. Press the small button on the RR501 to test that the lamp/ appliance goes on and off.

I get nothing when pressing the small button. Further, when I try to control it using a controller plugged into the same outlet, I get nothing. I am sure the house and unit codes are set appropriately.

Is this thing just dead? Perhaps it was DOA? Do X10 modules die just lying around in a box? Is there anything I can try inside to fix this thing?

Thanks.

Reply to
David White
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In general, they don't die from inactivity but the code wheels are lubricated where they contact the circuit board. I've had new modules that would not work due to excess lubricant (lots of it - the module worked once I removed most of it) and have seen reports from others about dried up lubricant that interfered with setting house/unit codes.

Do you have any way to m>I got this thing many years ago in a group-buy of new X10 stuff from

Reply to
Dave Houston

Thanks Dave,

I will open it up and look for the lubrication issues on the code wheel. I actually have other lamp modules in the vicinity and they are working when this does not respond. So I am pretty sure it is this module alone.

David

Dave Houst> In general, they don't die from inactivity but the code wheels are

Reply to
David White

| I will open it up and look for the lubrication issues on the code wheel. | I actually have other lamp modules in the vicinity and they are working | when this does not respond. So I am pretty sure it is this module alone.

I don't think that there is any state of the code wheels (regardless of bad contact) that will cause the local button to fail to toggle the relay. The relay itself might be bad or there may be some systemic failure. You could check whether it responds to a status query to see if it is just the relay.

Dan Lanciani ddl@danlan.*com

Reply to
Dan Lanciani

It will respond to a Status Request even if the relay is removed and sent to a landfill.

Reply to
Dave Houston

Even if the module (any X10 module with codewheels) was disassembled and sitting on the workbench with NO codewheels at all, if it were operational, it would respond to the address 'M13'.

Is the switch under the pushbutton a PCB 'bubble' switch? Oxidation / high resistance?

Polling the device is a good idea. Is there possibly a 'strand-of- wire' fuse that may have blown?

Never had the occasion to open one up. Please let everyone know what you find...

Reply to
taketheactive

In article , snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com writes: | Dan Lanciani wrote: | >

| > I don't think that there is any state of the code wheels (regardless of | > bad contact) that will cause the local button to fail to toggle the relay. | > The relay itself might be bad or there may be some systemic failure. You | > could check whether it responds to a status query to see if it is just the | > relay. | >

| Even if the module (any X10 module with codewheels) was disassembled | and sitting on the workbench with NO codewheels at all, if it were | operational, it would respond to the address 'M13'.

And in fact deliberately setting it to M13 should provide the best chance of remote operation...

| Is the switch under the pushbutton a PCB 'bubble' switch?

Yes

| Polling the device is a good idea. Is there possibly a 'strand-of- | wire' fuse that may have blown?

On the current version it is near the prongs of the plug and labeled "F". Of course, if it is blown then something else might be wrong.

Dan Lanciani ddl@danlan.*com

Reply to
Dan Lanciani

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