Now I want to make the living room have remote control lights. In my rented apartment i used two LM12 Plug-in Lamp Modules.
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Now I am wanting to have flush lighting in the room. (Mainly because I am going to mount a projector in a few months.) The lights I am planning on using are going to have GU10 Halogen bubls
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.GU10 Halogen bulbs are mains powered and I am pretty sure you can dim them without anything extra.
So if I had two sets of those lights and I used the LD11 module
I suspect so. I have an LD11 running 3x60W and it works fine. You are talking of 500W load of halogen lamps which is going to be more marginal. I don't recall if the instructions required any derating for halogen lamps, but due to the way the LD11 always comes on slowly even if you send it an 'on' command with no dimming commands, it likely doesn't need any derating.
I have it housed in second consumer unit, and have it protected by a dedicated 3A Type B MCB, which might provide some extra protection for the Triac in the event of a flashover in a failed lamp (most recent MCB's will act faster than the fuse).
Personally, I'd never try lighting a room using downlighter spotlamps due to the inappropriate use and appalling efficiency of the setup, but that's a different matter.
Hey Andrew, Thanks for your reply. Your right the link was to 5 GU10
50w lamps.
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I was planning on buying two sets but only running 8 lights as my room is long and then having the front 4 and back 4 run seperatly.
The reason for this is that I am planning to have a video projector in the middle of the room, though this is not for some time. Having hanging lights would be in the way of the projection.
Why wouldn't you light a room using downlighters? I've never done this before so I thought it would be cool.
They are horribly inefficient. The lamps themselves are not too bad, but then you are lighting the room by using indirect light bounced off the floor. That's why you'll need 400-500W of lights to get the same room lighting as you'd achieve by hanging a 100W lamp in the middle of the room (not that I'm suggesting this, but just using it as a comparison). Oh, and 400-500W of lights in one room isn't "cool";-) Also, a personal view, but I hate the resulting glare from these lamps too. You might get round this by dimming them, and then the efficiency of the lamps themselves plummets too.
You probably need a couple of different lighting schemes in the room, one for general purpose lighting, and another for lighting when using your projector. For the general purpose lighting, given your restriction of nothing hanging below the ceiling, I would look at designing the lighting to bounce off white ceilings and/or light coloured walls to give a good coverage with no glare. Wall mounted and/or floor standing uplighters, and recessed ceiling mounted wall washers can be used to do this.
I'm not so familiar with the lighting requirements when the projector is in use, but one suggestion would be to use *very low* powered recessed spot downlighters, like 10W, to light the floor (their objective is just to light the floor, not to buonce the light all round the room). Additional ones could be used to provide accent lighting (lighting a picture, vase, display cabinet, etc). For this application, you need no-glare types, which are not so easy to find -- they don't spill light off-beam, and hence into your eyes, and they'll be 12V types. A light itself can also form an accent in the room, in the form of a table lamp. This scheme would give a more subdued light so as not to wash out the projector image. The accent lighting part could also be used in conjunction with the general purpose lighting.
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