I have several X10 lights which suddenly stopped responding, intermittently, to X10 signals. by turning on and off some 220V appliances, I've come to believe that it's a failure of the whole-house signal bridge, about 10 years old.
Since this is a completely passive system (my understanding anyway), I'm not sure how it could fail, but I wanted to ask here if having it replaced by an electrician is a reasonable effort at problem solving, since I can reliably make these switches respond by turning on 220V appliances?
Capacitors fail all the time. Do a Google search on: "capacitor failures"
To read an interesting article about the recent scandal over bad capacitors that had a serious effect on the PC world:
FAULTS & FAILURES Leaking Capacitors Muck up Motherboards
"It has all the elements of a good thriller: a stolen secret formula, bungled corporate espionage, untraceable goods, and lone wolves saving the little guy from the misdeeds of multinational corporations. In this case, a mistake in the stolen formulation of the electrolyte in a capacitor has wrecked hundreds of PCs and may wreck still more in what is an industrywide problem.
Aluminum electrolytic capacitors with a low equivalent series resistance (ESR) are high-capacitance components that generally serve to smooth out the power supply to chips. Throughout 2002, they have been breaking open and failing in certain desktop PCs. Motherboard and PC makers contacted by IEEE Spectrum have stopped using the faulty parts, but because the parts can fail over a period of several months, more such failures are expected . . . "
Most people find it preferable to switch to an active coupler a.k.a. a repeater. That's because more and more consumer products (compatc fluorescents bulbs, UPSs and switching power supplies) are turning out to be X-10 signal suckers. An investment in a repeater now might save lots of trouble in the future like having to buy lots of filters or calling the electrician back to installer a repeater. Both ACT and Leviton make units in the under $100 range.
Check Smarthome for a plug-in unit. You can get either a repeater or a coupler in a model that plugs into a 220VAC outlet. Not as good as a panel mounted unit, but good enough. Saves on calling in the electrican.
Not sure exactly what you mean by the above, but if the system is marginal, having more stuff bridge the phases can help. I'd still do some more debugging and maybe analyze the coupler to make sure it's really dead. I've replaced a lot of "good" stuff in my day. mike
Thanks; I don't mind spending for a repeater, or an electrician, it's just I thought I had read once that repeaters had their ocasional problems (such as the destination device receiving both the original dim command and then the repeated one, so it would dim more than desired?).
Thanks Mike, but I'm convinced I did, as I can cause it to fail with no 220V appliances enabled; when I enable their breakers, it works again.
The previous poster, perhaps knowing I also have some noise problems like you indicated, suggested I might use a repeater instead of a passive coupler. At this point I'd simply like to know if these are prone to their own special set of problems or not?
Yes, they do have some issues but they are generally restricted to unusual setups. What kind of X-10 gear do you have (makes and models)? If you're worried that you'll have problems get the electrician to put a 220 outlet near the circuit box. Then you can try one of smarthome's plug-in repeaters:
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and return it if you have any troubles and exchange it for their passive, plug-in coupler. In fact, if you already have 220 outlets, try it there first. If it works, consider having a sparky install a dedicated outlet near the circuit box. It may turn out that the unit's "pass through" outlet eliminates the need for a new outlet altogether.
Nothing unusual; an HAI transmitter, and a mix of switches and outlets from PCS and Leviton.
Thanks for the suggestion, I think I'll try out the device you mentioned, along with some filters on the UPSs and surge protectors. Hopefully the combo will get me back to 100% as the house has grown to 60 or so devices, so we've gotten quite used to it all working.
That's enough devices from enough different manufacturer's that I would definitely go the plug-in route with a repeater/coupler first.
If that restores you to normal, spend the money you saved on a sparky by buying the Elk ESM-1 meter for X-10 - it's about $60 or so. If you do run into a bad signal sucker in the house, it will save you hours of frustration trying to figure out which appliance is the problem. I started with the Elk and moved up the Monterey PLSA (about $240 or so) because I wanted a greater level of detail than the Elk's LED bargraph display provided. Either one is a necessity in the modern world of UPSs, CF bulbs and transformless wall warts. Someday Dave Houston will build a PLSA that puts all others to shame ( to DH) but until then, do consider a meter of some sort. They come in all prices ranges but the Elk's the best of the cheapest.
For the cost of three filters, consider buying a meter before filtering stuff just by "device class." For every UPS, wall wart and fluorescent bulb I have that's a signal sucker or noisemaker, I have at least 4 other devices of the same type that are not. That means you have a one in five chance of filtering the right device on the first shot.
Believe me, there's a definite "hunter psyche" in all of us and when you use the meter to locate a problem device you'll feel just like the first caveman to dig a pit to catch dinner. It's a profound "gotcha!" sort of experience. For me, doing X-10 without a meter is like putting up shelves without a studfinder. You can do it, but . . .
Even more reason to get a meter. I didn't know until I started reading hear that every X-10 device that transmits is also a signal sucker. It's not much of a loss, but it accumulates. It's why I recommend coupler/repeaters to anyone with over 10 or so devices.
You're welcome! (BTW, I have no financial or other interest in any meter makers or sellers. I am just trying to save people the frustration I went through when I first got into X-10. If you read through Google, you'll find I just hated X-10 when I got here but the posts of Dave H, Dan L, Bruce R and others convinced me that X-10 works well if you have a meter and use it wisely to filter what needs filtering. Just today I found another sucker: A GE CF bulb that's listed as 26W FLE26HT3/2/SW drops the X-10 signal on it's branch from .20 to .10 and that's close the limit of reliable operation - OK meter sermon over! )
My installer didn't have a meter (he's my sparky who's expanded his business line), and so I didn't know there was one available in the consumer range). I haven't seen him in many years, and have learned to deal with many situations on my own, so I'll take your advice and go to find an Elk.
BTW, the HAI I'm still using is the one they made 11 years ago (the 1503 V II). Pretty good recommendation for HAI equipment, although someday I really will get that installer back to upgrade to an Omni/pro II.
You'll be glad you did. The first time it helps you find a stuck button on a palmpad or a maxicontroller, you'll realized how valuable it can be. If a button gets stuck, you can see the continual traffic on the meter and by moving it around, figure out where the problem is located by where the signal is the strongest. It will also give you excellent guidance about what devices need filtering.
There's a lot to be said for "if it ain't broke!" :-) More complexity means more things can go wrong.
You're quite welcome. Many of our regulars seem to be on vacation. They might still chime in with more suggestions . . .
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