Home IR Control

Why? IIRC, we decided that a modified X-10 transceiver could be programmed to act on an escape key. Press ALL OFF and that's a flag that the next command is a meta command like a non-default housecode. I think that was Dan L's explanation of it, anyway, that with the escape key, you can have a transceiver respond to all housecodes while you still maintain a default housecode. To send a real ALL OFF, you press the key twice within a short time frame. At least that's what I hope Jeff was working on or at least a way for an end user to load a translation table of their own design.

Certainly not a homebrew supertransceiver? While I understand stock X-10 transceivers are stuck at whatever their housecode wheel is set at, the Leviton all housecode transceiver will hear and act on any housecode. Since I can change the housecode on the UR24A, it *has* to be sending housecode information. All I want a transceiver to do is to sense that an escape code has been hit, override the default housecode and use whatever keys follow an escape key next as the housecode for any following command.

Buy me six and I will be happy to switch! I love my UR24s. They will have to pry them from my cold, dead hands! If the IR network and the CPUXA work together I can make the 8-in-1 all-housecode pretty easily by using IR and translating all the commands into PLC via the CPUXA. I'd much prefer to do it with a Turbo CM15X from Jeff because it's RF and offers the potential for a security prefix to lock out the neighborhood juvenile delinquents if needed.

Laugh all you want! I WILL control ALL 256 House and Unit codes by Remote, I swear by the name of Al Gore, the Father of the Internet!

They blew it on the ControlLinc - people are used to letter and key combinations. There's no need for 16 extra house code keys when you could press a housecode button first and then just a number key. Would have saved a LOT of real estate on a controller that badly needs a size reduction.

-- Bobby G.

That's a nice feature. I've been looking at the specs for the Ocelot's zoned IR module at it looks like I'd need that plus a relay module to really zone both input and output. Right now there are only three places we need remotes to control the main video feed in the LR, the basement, the bedroom and the kitchen.

Knowing the origin zone can help determine occupancy, too. I'm really struggling with how to design a personalized HA system that doesn't involve planting RF chips in people. :-)

I found something called the MIT Occupancy Sensor at

that might be helpful. The problem I have with SAF is that X-10 gear will plunge people into darkness if they stop moving. Your system feature reminded me that if I am going to keep the lites from going out, I need to monitor things like IR activity in a room.

I wonder if a strain gauge mounted on the top of a floor jack that touched the bottom of a joist in the basement would be sensitive enough to tell that there's a human's worth of weight on the floor above?

Zone based is nice. I think it's becoming a "must have" feature as I read up on IR control. CAT5's the way to go, too, although I see some sites using DB9 connectors and serial cables to build their IR net. Too clumsy!

"The Busy led is quite useful as it indicates to users in All zones that ir is being transmitted by someone and therefore not to send ir until the red led extinguishes."

That's another nice feature. I've found the the ControlLinc Maxi's busy light keeps me from "stepping on" another X-10 transmission more than once. Good job, mate! I like the design, too. I find that since buying an EZ-crimp, I use CAT5 for everything. I just buy colored cable to make sure I keep the intercom separate from the phone separate from the LAN, etc.

Thanks for the info. What's the conversion rate between AU and US these days?

-- Bobby G.

Wow, I made that a long time ago. I'm surprised people still look at it. :)

I have a newer design that uses one central PIC for everything and some off-the-shelf IR eyeballs and emitters. Someday I'll put this design on a web page. It's much better than the 555 design.

John

"With single emitters at $65" Where did you find that price?

For the 3 receiver 4 emitter system buy one X291-KIT/RP and two X291-80. Even at Smarthome retail prices that is $260 for all the parts.

A WAG on your current project would use the following parts:

8 X291-90 IR Receivers (includes small connecting block) 1 X791-44 1-zone amplified connecting block 1 XCB18 parallel connecting block 1 X782-00 power supply 1 X283M 10 pack IR emitters

I will let you do the pricing but it should be less than 10 of your "single emitters at $65"...

"Lewis Gardner"

My error. That should have read "receivers" and not "emitters" - here's the Xantech price list I've been looking at.

-- Bobby G.