d-day

There's new manufacturing technology that, if it proves viable, will eliminate the need for coal-fired generating plants and, essentially, remove the limits on growth of generating capacity - making the mercury in CFLs a much bigger issue.

http://www.p>Perhaps this is true in the US where envoronmental issues take a back

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Reply to
Dave Houston
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This is Usenet. It's less than pointless to lecture people on English in an international forum.

Reply to
Robert L Bass

Agreed. I happen to believe we should do all we can to reduce the problem. Using CFLs is a step in the right direction.

Nope. That's one of the idiots from the alarm newsgroup.

Reply to
Robert L Bass

Nanosolar's technology has major advantages over polysilicate solar cells. It's much chealer to produce and install. However, in order for it to become a marketing success the installed product needs to last ~20 years since it essentially becomes part of the roof system. Tradidicional solar cells are more rigid and if properly installed can stand up to many years of wind and weather. The life expectancy of Nanosolar's product is as yet unproven. It's promising but it's far from a slam dunk success.

As soon as we can get rid of Bush we'll be able to enact some good laws. Right now he's still vetoing worthwhile stuff.

Your tax dollars at work.

Reply to
Robert L Bass

So you seem to think.

Feel free to try. I'll still be here long after you've used up this alias and 150 others.

Reply to
Robert L Bass

Re-posting the SPAM that you posted in the alarm newsgroup, idiot.

Reply to
Gee. Morgan

Nice sig. Who do you think you're hurting by posting here?

Reply to
Robert L Bass

In article , snipped-for-privacy@everywhere.pl (Ghost) writes: | Why not good in cold climates? And more interesting question - what CFL have | to do with "motion detectors"?

I assume the problem is that when the motion detector detects motion you want the light to come up to full intensity quickly, and cold climates exacerbate the the slow-start problem.

In any case, I've found many outdoor CFL floods that claim the equivalent light of a 120W incandescent but not yet any 150W. I'm also a little confused about the actual wattage. Typically the 120W-equivalent floods are around 23W actual. Other types of 150W-equivalent CFLs (e.g., reader lights) are around 40-45W actual. Even allowing for the difference between

120W and 150W "equivalent" this seems to suggest that either CFL floods are far more efficient than other form factors or they use a different definition of "equivalent." When I find a 150W-equivalent I'll give it a try.

Dan Lanciani ddl@danlan.*com

| U?ytkownik "John J. Bengii" napisa3 w wiadomo6ci | news:NaidnS0IXuNfde7anZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@golden.net... | > Sure are. Most of them need to warm up before the lumen strength matches | > the old incandescent though. This is not good in cold climates or for | > motion detectors. | >

| >> | Yeap, I saw new incandescents (osram) - still far, far behind CFL. I | >> don't | >> | agree that incandescents ever be good as CFL (just physics laws). | >>

| >> Are there any outdoor CFL floods that put out light similar to the 150W | >> bulbs I used to be able to buy before they were banned?

Reply to
Dan Lanciani

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Reply to
Dave Houston

Winning friends and influencing people, eh?? ;-))

Reply to
G. Morgan

I can't comment the other comments but on the issue of cold I can. Basically the CFL bulb fails to fully light instead it just dimly flickers. One of my neighbors has a CFL on their front porch and if the temperatures are less than about 40F then the bulb just flickers all night long. During the spring/summer and part of the fall months it works great.

Reply to
Neil Cherry

Do you really believe that my "fridge and any other syncronous motor" are in danger (if yes, what kind of danger?) when almost all of my light sources are CFL?

U¿ytkownik "John J. Bengii" napisa³ w wiadomo¶ci news:DZednfmwHZFluuTanZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@golden.net...

Reply to
Ghost

These CFLs do not illuminate full brillance until they fully warm up the internal gases. This is another reason they are not recommended for motion detectors.

I have one in my barn that can barely be seen to illuminate for the fist few seconds in the cold. It takes a good three to four minutes to illuminate the area and then it produces equiv to about a 60w incandescent bulb. The CFL flood I have out the back are a similar problem but not so pronounced

Reply to
John J. Bengii

Reply to
John J. Bengii

Look at "syncronous motor" ;-)

Reply to
Ghost

Yes, depending upon what combination of vegetables and and cheeses you might be keeping inside it. It could explode at any time. I'd salvage what I could out of it before that happens. Save the Eggnog and the beer (or move it to the garage). :-)

Reply to
Frank Olson

Reply to
John J. Bengii

First lets fix the order of the messages ... In case you need to know why:

A: Because it messes up the order in which people normally read text. Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing? A: Top-posting. Q: What is the most annoying thing in e-mail?

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Now on to my comments on the CFL ... My neighbor's CFL never gets past dimly flicking on cold days. It's not really surprising as the area where it's located get the full effects of the wind and the winter night time temperatures routinely drop below 30F.

Reply to
Neil Cherry

Ditto here. I use screw in CFLs (cheap 60 watt equivalent ones) in some of my outdoor fixtures. The most exposed ones is problematic on a cold night, fine when its warmer. Changing bulbs does not change the behavior.

Reply to
Steve

Thanks for the heads up, Marc. I was wondering whether it was worth bothering to answer him. That answers that question.

Reply to
Robert L Bass

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