I need to replace my front door lock/deadbolt combo, and was thinking it would be nice to put in something with a keypad where I could program several codes with different expirations (for repairmen, meter readers, etc.)
Before I just go buy whatever is at the store, I thought I'd check and see if anyone knows of a model with one additional function- it would be great if one had a proximity sensor (RFID key fob or something) where the door would automatically unlock if I got within, say, 3-5 feet of it. That way I could be carrying an armload of groceries and not have to fumble for my keys.
Where should I be looking for this, if such an animal even exists?
I couldn't come up with a decision on this one either, until I realized that many of the electric deadbolts have a thumb latch on the inside, just as an unpowered bolt would. My existing locks don't open themselves in a power outage, and I wouldn't want my power locks to do so either.
In the case of fire, I think there's a fuzzier line. It might be nice for the HA system to unlock the doors if the system has detected a fire, in order that firemen may get in, or that someone could let my pets out. Same might apply to a house with younger or elderly inhabitants, where a lock might prove a fatal stumbling block, either in terms of dexterity or recognition of 'locked' vs 'unlocked.' The more obstacles to escape you can remove, the better.
Not a power-off unlock, but a commanded unlock that would hopefully happen before a fire took the power out.
One additional thought- the ability to store usage information (did the repairperson come and leave when they were supposed to, did someone who has their own code (babysitter) come over/enter on a day that they weren't supposed to while no-one was home, stuff like that would be nice, but not critical to a purchase decision.
Keith sagely wrote in news:Xns96A58FBCD269DKeithBC4ReaderTokenI@207.115.63.158:
Key word for you to know is "Weigand" (the name used for an industry-standard, electronic/electronic security protocol). Google on " Wiegand" or "Wiegand rfid home automation" to get information on door units that respond to that standardized protocol and rfid.
These devices are often used in commercial situations and tend to be pricey. Elk products
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had an attractively priced I-button add-on for their Magic Module series, but no RFID last I knew. Used with appropriate HA software, it can tell you which fob ('who') was used where and when. The I-button needs to be within an inch or so, not feet..
That's a good point. I'd definitely check the local firecodes before installing something like this. If someone is injured even tangentially because of the lock, and it's against the building code, there may be serious legal repercussions.
I've thought about this for a while. One significant problem you might have is satisfying your insurance company that whatever scheme you have come up with is actually secure. There are two sides to this. The first is the physical door locking mechanism -- those which come anywhere near as robust as a standard door lock/bolt are horrendously expensive. The second is the security of the software and electronics side of things. If a burglar enters your house through the door, I could imagine severe problems getting any insurance company to pay out.
These devices are in very wide use on this side of the pond. I dunno about insurance aspects as it relates to others, but I personally wouldn't choose not to do this owing to insurance (in my circumstances, in my municipality, with my insurance and so on).
There is, however, a security-related safety decision that you will have to make when and if you purchase one.
Namely, in the event of a power failure, do you want the door to:
1) fail in the locked position? -- in which case folks may be trapped inside and able to get out during eg, a fire.
2) fail in the unlocked position? -- in which case the bad guys get in for free.
You're now entering the world of "access control", particularly if you want to "track" individuals as by code or even control when their code is active (for instance, the maid's code would only work between 1200 hrs and 1600 hours on Wednesdays). I responded to a very similar question in a post entitled "Entrance Keypads". I'd suggest you have a look at the ELK M-1 Gold panel. Yes, it looks "expensive" but if you "dig a little deeper" and realize you're also getting a powerful user-friendly Home Automation Controller *and* a top notch security system there really is no other option... "Do it right the first time!"
So what do your existing deadbolts do in event of a fire?
Most of these locks open from inside with the same type mechanism as a standard lock. Most also can be opened from outside with a key.
I used an IR operated deadbolt which, aside from a battery housing looked like a standard deadbolt from inside and aside from an IR target and LED looked like a standard deadbolt from the outside.
I would be leery of RFID. They can be read from 75-100 feet with the right antenna so they are insecure unless coupled with rolling codes (hard to do with RFID and multiple cards).
iButtons require contact so are not much more convenient than a key.
I would probably go with an IR deadbolt and use video cameras to identify the entrants. I would not rely on
Dave is confusing locks with the strikes. What I referred to was the conventional approach of having the component that opens be the _strike_, not the lock, with a hard-wired interface to a HA system that logs who enters when as the original poster desired.
[ sentence incomplete as posted by Dave]
But this wouldn't meet the original poster's desire to be able to log who entered and when. The deadbolts Dave refers to do not, ABIK, have a way of communicating with HA software.
I said "tangentially" :-) Sadly we're in a very litigious country and if some worker was injured because they couldn't find the lock (remember, they probably *didn't* have to work with it or locate it to get into the house) or had some other trouble, it could end up badly for the home owner. I'll bet there have been cases where a burglar has been injured while burgling a house and sued. Look at the Michael Jackson trial. His accuser's mother turned a shoplifting arrest into a big payout from JC Penney's. It just makes plain old good sense to contact the local inspectors and find out if there are any code restrictions on automated locking devices.
Most doesn't equal ALL. I've seen electrical door strikes and automatic locks come in all flavors and sizes. I know in commercial establishments automatic locks must often have a large panic bar or emergency exit panel. People just don't think clearly in a panic. They may not even have realized the door had locked behind them when they came in, especially if they are baby sitters or tradesmen.
Yes - and many do operate that way and appear that way. But not all.
I would be leary of that and biometric devices. There was a recent article about the big hacker convention that talked about the hackability of biometric devices. Close proximity, like the I-buttons offer, seems to be the best choice for entrance/exit protection. I do sympathize with the OP in wanting something smart enough to open the door when my arms are full. Maybe some sort of voice and visual recognition: "Open the f__king door you sonofabitch house or I'll take you apart with a crowbar" or some such detailed "opening" phrase might work. :-)
On what? :-) I'd love my frontdoor cam to be smart enough to recognize me coming to the door with some packages, but it's gonna be a while!
I have My Elk M1 control my 2 door strikes. They are fail secure. The door handle still functions normal. I look at these for awhile and thought this is the best way. With the Elk you can have several different ways of activating the output. I use a keyfob. But for you it may be better to get a outside punch keypad.
Besides running the wire into the door frame it was pretty easy to setup.
Without delving into the relative merits of any of the proposed solutions, I have to point out that fumbling with a key fob is often only slightly less irritating as fumbling with a keychain.
I got the feel the OP didn't want to fumble with anything but rather carry something in his pocket that would unlock the door based on nothing but proximity. That would certainly be my wish when I pop out of an airport cab in the pouring rain. I don't normally have my keys out since I haven't been driving and sometimes I've been known to check them in baggage along with anything else that might get me flagged at the check-in station's metal detectors.
Probably the best way for me to accomplish hands-free unlocking would be to put a G-force sensor on the dog's tail, which wags furiously enough to clear end tables when she recognizes a family member at the front door. She does this through what I can only assume is a complex analysis of sound patterns and perhaps smells. She certainly can't see us - there's no access to a window for her - but she *knows* it's us. If only my security system were so smart.
I agree with Andrew (except for the cost - the IR deadbolts are relatively inexpensive and reasonably robust). Anything you find that is this programmable is far too complex and entails security problems of its own.
Go to
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and search on "deadbolt" for alternatives. There are automated deadbolts that are quite secure although they do not have the easy reprogramming and reporting desired by the OP.
Anything using RF (including RFID) and not using rolling codes is suspect. It's too easy to capture and play back.
The IR operated deadbolts use very short range IR which is difficult to intercept.
If you control the _door strike_ rather than the _lock_ then:
1) cost for a physically robust door strike is in fact low (~$30 ) not "horrendously expensive"
Froogle "electric door strike"
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2) the part that uses electricity is on the stationary frame rather than the moving door so the device does not need to be entirely wireless,
3) this is a standard commercial method,
4) there are a wide variety of industry-standard ( " Weigand" -compatible) devices (keypad, key fobs (I-button, IR, RF) , swipe/credit cards, IR, fingerprint, RFID, iris recognition etc)
5) you can change, update, use multiple key/code/entrance devices using the same lock/doorstrike/HA control system
6) there are affordable programmable systems that are themselves HA control systems or interface with them --for example, two distinctly different Elk systems have already been mentioned in this thread and neither require a computer to be in operation 24x7.
7) With a HA system (or specialized system) you can open the door remotely or on a schedule, or response to other sensors,
8) Door strikes can be trivially interfaced to security systems If you are considering, or have a security system the stand-alone dead bolt systems are a waste of money that interface poorly if at all with a HA and Security systems (in my opinion).
9) the keystroke is completely inconspicuous, whereas the dead-bolt options involve (in my case) removing neat old/antique hardware and replacing it with some tacky new stuff with a different footprint on the wooden door.
"Imagine"? How many keypads/card-swipe/button-based entry device do you see in a single day? Do any/all have the problems you are concerned with?
"Far too complex?" Too complex for whom, what, why? What does this mean? If you already have a conventional security system, or (eg) an Elk system of either style you can ad and I-button and door strike for about $75. At least with my Savoy CyberHouse implementation of Elk's hardware, I can have two different devices (eg, I-button + RFID or Keypad) I "imagine" that an Adicon Ocelot could be programmed to do this (but don't know).
Elk also sells a complete turnkey system with ten, pre-programmed 48-digit I-buttons to do this (less door strike itself).
Here it is:
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mail order for about $175 (but I'd suggest the newer ELK M1 system or a conventional security system)
Right. Google "weigand" "electric strike plate, (not "deadbolt") and you will get to many _responsive_ solutions.
The technology is constantly evolving and there are many choices. Ny choosing an industry-standard Weigand interface, your system can evolve without defacing the door itself.
And don't satisfy the original posters needs because they don't interface with HA systems or conventional security systems (last I knew).
With even only a conventional security system, it is near-trivial to add a secure, rolling code key fob so you can disarm the house, open the garage door, unlock the front door with a single button from 100 feet away and even have a panic button on the same fob in case there is a situation that alarms you .
This can be accomplished with simple addition of a ~$30 "electric door strike" hard wired to the door (the lock itself need not be altered at all).
If your security system does not already have a secure key fob, one can be added either natively (same manufacturer) or by using an add-on (eg NAPCO makes one).
With a home automation system (Homeseer, Elk, HAI etc) you can also open the door remotely ("call me at the office when you get to the house and I'll buzz you in").
And log and notify you by email pager or phone of who enters when through which door.
The dead bolt gizmos suggested by another poster to this thread are a very poor alternative, and, if you have an security or HA system, a waste of money that does not meet your stated objectives. See my other posts for a more detailed list of reasons. Marc Marc_F_Hult
That's a neat idea. I think I'll get out the Dremel. Grinding different patterns will make the keys identifiable by feel in my pocket. I use to use these neat colored slip on plastic rings that have different ridges on the edge for each color, but they make the damn keyring bigger, not smaller.
Agreed. It seems to be the best of the solutions since the rolling code devices are considered to be fairly secure.
Yes, I was joking, but it still amazes me how dogs can differentiate people from behind closed doors. My wife has to hold little Nikki's tail when I take too long to get the door open or else she'll do some damage. I'm just not sure whether attaching a sabre to it is a good idea! I'll bet that I can train her to operate a paddle that activated a door strike relay. The problem is she'd quickly learn that unlocking the door usually leads to a reward of W-A-L-K (actually, we can't even spell the word anymore - she knows it spoken and spelled and will go stand by her walking leash as soon as she hears either).
I have only one house key. All locks are keyed the same. No office keys. No car. The only others are for my bicycle locks. Due to the insecurity of the Kryptonite round keys all my locks were replaced. But the new keys have this enormous plastic head. I believe if I bust the head off I will be left with a straight shaft, hopefully with a hole in it so I can still attach it.
Agreed. My key fobs are usually in a drawer in the basement. My key chain consists in three flat keys with the heads mostly ground off because I travel light ...
But since the OP was talking about a bag of groceries (not a cab ride from a security checkpoint), and the range of key fobs is on the order of 100 feet, there is no fumbling involved if one presses the button when one takes the keys out of a car ignition.
You joke (I think ? ;-), but sabres used in competitive fencing for about the last decade use an accelerometer that signals the deceleration of the blade when it strikes the opponent. Recently, wireless has been introduced, so there may be an off-the-shelf solution to signal when a dog's tail hits the table ;-)
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