Converting an X-10 RF wallswitch to operate using a standard toggle switch
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Posted by Robert Green on September 24, 2007, 6:26 am
Please log in for more thread options (Robert Green) writes: DL | You might find it easier to use a SPDT (aka three-way) switch and some DL | series capacitors. DL | > Note that if you want the switch to do the same thing independent of
from
DL | > which way it is flipped (e.g., to activate something that toggles) DL | > you can wire one capacitor between each contact and the pole. That DL | > way the switch shorts one capacitor as it brings the other across the DL | > circuit you are trying to control, eliminating the discharge time DL | > consideration.
RG | That's an interesting concept. Do you think it would significantly increase RG | the drain on the coin cell battery? DL | I wouldn't think so. I just bought some RW684 2 channel wireless wall switches - the kind that use 4 AAA batteries to replace a similar 4 channel switch whose switch button has begun to require ever-increasing pressure to make contact. Now that I have the bad switch apart I want to see if I can, as suggested earlier, hook this switch up to a toggle-type lightswitch with more reliable contacts. The circuit board "switches" look like big solder blobs and I can probably cut away the traces that lead to them and solder my own switch leads onto the board. What's the best way to attach a wire to a circuit trace? I was thinking of drilling a tiny holy in the trace and scraping away enough of the green insulating coating to make a good joint. I could also trace the circuit path from the switch to the first discrete component, which I believe it a pin on the circuit board's IC, but there's not a heck of a lot of space to attach a new wire. Also, does anyone care to take a guess what type and value of capacitor would be effective in the kind of setup Dan described? P.S. and FWIW, the instructions with this switch say that banks 9 and 13 won't work with the RR-501 transmitter. Thanks in advance! -- Bobby G. | ||||||||||||||||
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Posted by Charles Sullivan on September 24, 2007, 10:21 pm
Please log in for more thread options <snip>
> P.S. and FWIW, the instructions with this switch say that banks 9 and 13 > won't work with the RR-501 transmitter. With the X-10 company you never know what you can believe. Their hardware/firmware changes without notice (sometimes dramatically) and instruction sheets are frequently obsolete or just plain wrong for what limited information they provide. Regards, Charles Sullivan | ||||||||||||||||
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Posted by Robert Green on September 25, 2007, 1:48 am
Please log in for more thread options > On Mon, 24 Sep 2007 06:26:23 -0400, Robert Green wrote:
> <snip> > > P.S. and FWIW, the instructions with this switch say that banks 9 and 13
> > won't work with the RR-501 transmitter. >
> With the X-10 company you never know what you can believe. Their > hardware/firmware changes without notice (sometimes dramatically) > and instruction sheets are frequently obsolete or just plain wrong > for what limited information they provide. > > Regards, > Charles Sullivan I suppose this will be easy enough to check out. I have an RR501 running my HACS matrix switcher. I may not have run into the problem yet simply because the HACS only uses the first 8 unit codes of the housecode it's assigned to. I'll test it with some appliance modules and post the results. -- Bobby G. | ||||||||||||||||
RG| > standard 110VAC toggle switch (not using 110, of course) so that I can
RG| > have an RF switch with a positive tactile feel.
RG| > The issue facing me is how to easily convert an SPST wall switch to
RG| > operate as a momentary push button switch.