Hobby Electronics Basics making thermocouple temp probes?

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Subject Author Date
making thermocouple temp probes? JazzMan 04-24-05
Posted by JazzMan on April 24, 2005, 5:22 pm
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I've got some 1/8" OD 316 stainless tubing on order from
McMaster-Carr, already have some thermocouple wire rated
for 2K°F, and will be buying some fittings for mounting
the probes in the exhaust manifold of my engine. My thought
was to TIG one end shut on a 2" length of the tube and use
a stainless compression fitting to lock the probe in place.
I have several questions. One is, do I need to pot the
thermmocouple wire inside the tube? If so, with what? Would
it matter if the potting agent was conductive? Do I need to
somehow weld the thermocouple junction to the end of the
tube being used as the probe body? Or would simple contact
be suffient?

For reference, the engine's been modified and I've been
editing the fuel maps in the ECM. Knowing the EGT at
individual cylinders allows me to address flow balance
issues in the intake manifold, for instance.

JazzMan
--
**********************************************************
Please reply to jsavage"at"airmail.net.
Curse those darned bulk e-mailers!
**********************************************************
"Rats and roaches live by competition under the laws of
supply and demand. It is the privilege of human beings to
live under the laws of justice and mercy." - Wendell Berry
**********************************************************

Posted by Chris on April 24, 2005, 5:23 pm
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JazzMan wrote:
> I've got some 1/8" OD 316 stainless tubing on order from
> McMaster-Carr, already have some thermocouple wire rated
> for 2K=B0F, and will be buying some fittings for mounting
> the probes in the exhaust manifold of my engine. My thought
> was to TIG one end shut on a 2" length of the tube and use
> a stainless compression fitting to lock the probe in place.
> I have several questions. One is, do I need to pot the
> thermmocouple wire inside the tube? If so, with what? Would
> it matter if the potting agent was conductive? Do I need to
> somehow weld the thermocouple junction to the end of the
> tube being used as the probe body? Or would simple contact
> be suffient?
>
> For reference, the engine's been modified and I've been
> editing the fuel maps in the ECM. Knowing the EGT at
> individual cylinders allows me to address flow balance
> issues in the intake manifold, for instance.
>
> JazzMan
> --
> **********************************************************
> Please reply to jsavage"at"airmail.net.
> Curse those darned bulk e-mailers!
> **********************************************************
> "Rats and roaches live by competition under the laws of
> supply and demand. It is the privilege of human beings to
> live under the laws of justice and mercy." - Wendell Berry
> **********************************************************

Like your motto, Jazz.

Exposed thermocouple beads can be grounded at the point they're
measuring (sometimes there's no other way), as long as your instrument
measuring the thermocouple is floating (like a battery-powered
thermocouple meter). As long as you've got a floating meter, a
grounded bead and a SS compression fitting is a great idea. You might
want to put a sliver of mica between the compression fitting and the
T/C bead to ensure you're not shorting out the T/C by grounding it at
more than one point. Other than that, you're in good shape.

Sounds like you've got a good plan.

Good luck
Chris


Posted by JazzMan on April 24, 2005, 10:30 pm
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Chris wrote:
>
> JazzMan wrote:
> > I've got some 1/8" OD 316 stainless tubing on order from
> > McMaster-Carr, already have some thermocouple wire rated
> > for 2K°F, and will be buying some fittings for mounting
> > the probes in the exhaust manifold of my engine. My thought
> > was to TIG one end shut on a 2" length of the tube and use
> > a stainless compression fitting to lock the probe in place.
> > I have several questions. One is, do I need to pot the
> > thermmocouple wire inside the tube? If so, with what? Would
> > it matter if the potting agent was conductive? Do I need to
> > somehow weld the thermocouple junction to the end of the
> > tube being used as the probe body? Or would simple contact
> > be suffient?
> >
> > For reference, the engine's been modified and I've been
> > editing the fuel maps in the ECM. Knowing the EGT at
> > individual cylinders allows me to address flow balance
> > issues in the intake manifold, for instance.

> Like your motto, Jazz.
>

Thanks! I stole it from someone else a while back. I have no
idea who the wendel guy is, but the saying just seemed to embody
an ideal I thought was worth knowing.

> Exposed thermocouple beads can be grounded at the point they're
> measuring (sometimes there's no other way), as long as your instrument
> measuring the thermocouple is floating (like a battery-powered
> thermocouple meter). As long as you've got a floating meter, a
> grounded bead and a SS compression fitting is a great idea. You might
> want to put a sliver of mica between the compression fitting and the
> T/C bead to ensure you're not shorting out the T/C by grounding it at
> more than one point. Other than that, you're in good shape.
>
> Sounds like you've got a good plan.

I appreciate the advice. The t-couple wire pair is insulated in
a single woven material, and each individual wire is also
insulated. I'll have to remove the main insulation to get
the two wires to fit inside the tube. The potting agent would
be used to seal the two wires going into the tube to keep
water and dirt out. The patting agent I looked at in the catalog
has aluminum in it, so it would presumably be conductive. I
don't know if the agent would soak through the woven insulation
around the individual wires.

JazzMan
--
**********************************************************
Please reply to jsavage"at"airmail.net.
Curse those darned bulk e-mailers!
**********************************************************
"Rats and roaches live by competition under the laws of
supply and demand. It is the privilege of human beings to
live under the laws of justice and mercy." - Wendell Berry
**********************************************************

Posted by Larry Brasfield on April 25, 2005, 12:35 am
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....
> I appreciate the advice. The t-couple wire pair is insulated in
> a single woven material, and each individual wire is also
> insulated. I'll have to remove the main insulation to get
> the two wires to fit inside the tube. The potting agent would
> be used to seal the two wires going into the tube to keep
> water and dirt out. The patting agent I looked at in the catalog
> has aluminum in it, so it would presumably be conductive. I
> don't know if the agent would soak through the woven insulation
> around the individual wires.


I would not worry about the potting agent, unless
it was sold as a moldable conductor. The aluminum
is probably an oxide, or particles that are oxidized
on the surface, and not particularly conductive. The
thermocouple acts as a low voltage, low impedance
source, so a little stray current would not change
the sensed voltage enough to matter anyway.

--
--Larry Brasfield
email: donotspam_larry_brasfield@hotmail.com
Above views may belong only to me.




Posted by Dick on April 25, 2005, 1:24 pm
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>
>JazzMan wrote:
>> the probes in the exhaust manifold of my engine. My thought
>> was to TIG one end shut on a 2" length of the tube and use
>> a stainless compression fitting to lock the probe in place.
Don't know if this info is of any help but I made up a lower
temperature probe, based on a Pt100 sensor & thin walled 3/16" brass
tubing, by brazing in a very short length of brass rod to block off one
end of the tube.
Slid the sensor into the tube as far as it would go and back
filled the rest of the tube with a very fine, dry sand, then sealed open
end of tube with high temperature epoxy adhesive.
The sensor leads & joints are protected by some lengths of
narrow high temp sleeving and the sand was simply garden sand, washed
thoroughly, dried in an oven, sieved through a fine grade kitchen sieve
& finally ground very fine in the pestle & mortar usually used for herbs
& spices (best to do this when herself is out of the house !). To get
the sand past the sensor leads & into the tube fix a small paper cone
around the open end of the tube, fill it with the fine sand and then
gently tap the tube .........
I've been using this arrangement for some time as the sensor for
a PID temperature controller & it works very well, strong mechanically &
with a fast thermal response time.


--
Dick
Fra' Auld Reekie


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