LM380 Amplifier Volume Not Working
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Posted by John Popelish on June 6, 2008, 1:58 pm
Please log in for more thread options If it is running cool, you don't need the heat sinking possible through the copper area solder connection. -- Regards, John Popelish | ||||||||||||||||||||||
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Posted by Dave.H on June 6, 2008, 2:03 pm
Please log in for more thread options > Dave.H wrote:
> > I read that the LM380 is supposed to be soldered directly to a PCB
> > with the 3 centre pins on each side tied to a copper ground. Is this > > necessary? I have the LM380 in a socket (don't like soldering directly > > to IC's) and the ground pins all connected to separate wires. This > > was how it was done on the prototype model, the IC showed no signs of > > heat after a few hours. Should I leave it the way it is or what? >
> If it is running cool, you don't need the heat sinking > possible through the copper area solder connection. > > -- > Regards, > > John Popelish I didn't think so, just thought I'd better ask. Thanks for your help, It's still playing beside me, I can't wait to build the Hiker's one for it now. | ||||||||||||||||||||||
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Posted by Tim Wescott on June 6, 2008, 6:43 pm
Please log in for more thread options John Popelish wrote:
> Dave.H wrote:
>> I am having trouble with a small battery operated amp based on the
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.filereader?4849476303bce49a273fc0a87f9c06fd+EN/catalogs/SUPZ6080
>> LM380 chip. The volume control isn't working, all it does it change >> the amount of crackle in the speaker when iPod volume is up high, and >> also isn't loud. I had the prototype amp working excellent (with same >> pot) and even tried two different chips, same result. I really want to >> get this amp working for a regen radio, so any help is appreciated. I >> checked everything against the schematic (which can be found in the >> link below) a few time, but my tired eyes could have missed >> something. I'm running the whole thing of a single 9 volt battery. >> >> >>
>
If you haven't torn down the prototype, compare the voltages and
> If the prototype works then I suspect you have made some error in the > final construction. I think the design would be better if the two input > 2u2 caps were in series directly at the input, one turned each way, to > handle a DC bias in either direction (with the pot wiper connected > directly to pin 6), but that is not your problem. > > If you want help with a visual inspection, You will have to post a link > to some close up photos of your assembly. > > If that is difficult, you might post a list of pin voltages with the > negative probe on pin 7. > behavior of the two circuits, pin-for-pin, and see where there are differences. -- Tim Wescott Wescott Design Services http://www.wescottdesign.com Do you need to implement control loops in software? "Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" gives you just what it says. See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html | ||||||||||||||||||||||
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> with the 3 centre pins on each side tied to a copper ground. Is this
> necessary? I have the LM380 in a socket (don't like soldering directly
> to IC's) and the ground pins all connected to separate wires. This
> was how it was done on the prototype model, the IC showed no signs of
> heat after a few hours. Should I leave it the way it is or what?