"natural" air-conditioning
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Posted by on July 25, 2008, 4:52 pm
Please log in for more thread options http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solar_chimney http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windcatcher They seem so simple to implement - no moving parts, no electricity required. Might want to put a couple of screens on the air inlets however to keep bugs and mold out... Michael | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Posted by Kris Krieger on July 25, 2008, 5:37 pm
Please log in for more thread options @i24g2000prf.googlegroups.com: Would they work in a humid climate? Also, there needs to be a mechanism to control cold Winter drafts/heat loss. I've experienced the cooling effect in a hot, dry climate - it can be dramatic. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Posted by on July 26, 2008, 2:22 am
Please log in for more thread options > mrdarr...@gmail.com wrote in news:5d26f5d2-45ae-4c29-b3c0-dd1d4509e975
> @i24g2000prf.googlegroups.com: > > > Have these caught on in Europe?
>
> >http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solar_chimney
> >http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windcatcher >
> > They seem so simple to implement - no moving parts, no electricity
> > required. =A0Might want to put a couple of screens on the air inlets > > however to keep bugs and mold out... >
> > Michael
>
> Would they work in a humid climate? =A0 Not sure. I thought the predominant cooling mechanism was warm air cooled by cool rocks in the underground pipe, but water evaporating would cool further too. > Also, there needs to be a mechanism to
> control cold Winter drafts/heat loss. Shouldn't be too hard... a simple door? >
> I've experienced the cooling effect in a hot, dry climate - it can be > dramatic. In a solar chimney, or an evaporative cooler? Where? Michael | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Posted by Kris Krieger on July 26, 2008, 7:25 pm
Please log in for more thread options mrdarrett@gmail.com wrote in news:24da57d6-cce0-48b3-9515-cc20e7867f35
@v1g2000pra.googlegroups.com: >> mrdarr...@gmail.com wrote in news:5d26f5d2-45ae-4c29-b3c0-dd1d4509e975
>> @i24g2000prf.googlegroups.com: >> >> > Have these caught on in Europe?
>>
>> >http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solar_chimney
>> >http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windcatcher >>
>> > They seem so simple to implement - no moving parts, no electricity
>> > required. Might want to put a couple of screens on the air inlets >> > however to keep bugs and mold out... >>
>> > Michael
>>
>> Would they work in a humid climate? >
> > Not sure. I thought the predominant cooling mechanism was warm air > cooled by cool rocks in the underground pipe, but water evaporating > would cool further too. > >> Also, there needs to be a mechanism to
>> control cold Winter drafts/heat loss. >
> > Shouldn't be too hard... a simple door? > >>
>> I've experienced the cooling effect in a hot, dry climate - it can be >> dramatic. >
> > In a solar chimney, or an evaporative cooler? Where? > > Michael > In the LA Botanical Gardens, tehre is an old stable (moved to the location from somewhere else). We went there one day when it was about 103 deg outside, and inside that ond stable, it actually fely *cold*. Here is the deal: the stable area was very high, about a storey and a half. There was a partial storey of living space above it (one wasn;t allowed to go up there, so I can't couch for what the upstairs was like). On the top was an old-timey cupola - it had angled spats to keep out rain if/when it fell, yet allow hot air to escape. It was shaded inside due to the orientation (the staiway faced south, not the stalls) - I can't recall now whether thre were overhangign eaves, tho' - that was some years ago. In a hot, dry climate, it's easier to use passive cooling because water (including sweat) does evaporate and take heat form the air. When I lived there (about 15-20 inland from Pasadena), I didn't bother with the air contditioning, especially on blissfully dry days (about 5% humidity) until it reached about 95 inside, and at that, the main problem was keeping th ecomputer cool - most times I rode out the hot part of the day by setting a fan infront of one frozen salt-water block (in a container of course, and on a stand on a plate to catch any condensate - it wouldn't evaporate away, so I just refroze it every night); had a similar block on top of the machine. A simpler form is one I learnd from growing up in NJ without air- conditioning: open teh windows in the basement on the shaded side of the house, and in the upstairs, and fans in the upstairs windows pulling air up and out of the sunny (hot) side. Or, in houses with no basements, the bottom-floor windows on the shaded side. Tile (ceramic or stone) floors are good for hot climates, also, because they don't hold heat; if the house is on a slab, the tiles will tend to feel cool - you can have a fan situatedto blow the cool air upwards. OTOH, here in Houston, the humidity is considered "low" when it drops below 60% - in that humidity, passive cooling doesnt' work as well becasue the water vapor itself hold heat, making it harder for the body to shed heat via sweating. You still sweat, of course, but it can't evaporate efficiently. SO, technically, humdity isn't the same as "heat' per se, but it influences how the body sheds (or doesn't shed) heat. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Posted by Joerg on July 27, 2008, 12:47 pm
Please log in for more thread options Kris Krieger wrote:
[...] > In a hot, dry climate, it's easier to use passive cooling because water
> (including sweat) does evaporate and take heat form the air. When I > lived there (about 15-20 inland from Pasadena), I didn't bother with the > air contditioning, especially on blissfully dry days (about 5% humidity) > until it reached about 95 inside, and at that, the main problem was > keeping th ecomputer cool - most times I rode out the hot part of the day > by setting a fan infront of one frozen salt-water block (in a container > of course, and on a stand on a plate to catch any condensate - it > wouldn't evaporate away, so I just refroze it every night); had a similar > block on top of the machine. > Similar here, sans the ice block. The office often reaches 95F and it doesn't bother me. > A simpler form is one I learnd from growing up in NJ without air-
> conditioning: open teh windows in the basement on the shaded side of the > house, and in the upstairs, and fans in the upstairs windows pulling air > up and out of the sunny (hot) side. Or, in houses with no basements, the > bottom-floor windows on the shaded side. > > Tile (ceramic or stone) floors are good for hot climates, also, because > they don't hold heat; if the house is on a slab, the tiles will tend to > feel cool - you can have a fan situatedto blow the cool air upwards. > After I laid tiles it got worse: They store the heat and after cooling the house to 80F before turning in they heat it right back up after closing the windows. Ok, they are laid on a 2" mud bed which doesn't exactly help. >
> OTOH, here in Houston, the humidity is considered "low" when it drops > below 60% - in that humidity, passive cooling doesnt' work as well > becasue the water vapor itself hold heat, making it harder for the body > to shed heat via sweating. You still sweat, of course, but it can't > evaporate efficiently. SO, technically, humdity isn't the same as > "heat' per se, but it influences how the body sheds (or doesn't shed) > heat. > I have a client there and sometimes when I get proto-units there is liquid rust (!) oozing out of stainless steel hardware. Couldn't believe it. They said it's rather normal there. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ "gmail" domain blocked because of excessive spam. Use another domain or send PM. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solar_chimney
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windcatcher
>
> They seem so simple to implement - no moving parts, no electricity
> required. Might want to put a couple of screens on the air inlets
> however to keep bugs and mold out...
>
> Michael
>