What do you guys think? I am getting sick of the pocket knife approach, and none of the many wire strippers I have in my arsenal (including a phone cord making tool) do the job properly with the twisted pair.
Thanks!
Ideal makes a Cat-5 stripper that runs about $15 or so. I have a Greenlee combo RG-6 and Cat-5 stripper that works, but I usually end up just using the Ideal.
Carl Navarro
I use Paladin Tools AM12 stripper about halfway down this page.
Teeth make the best strippers. ;-)
Actually, my crimper includes a stripper, which does a nice job, though I have to roll the cable a bit, to cut the sheath all around. The ones for phone cord have the blades too close, as they're designed for that flat satin stuff.
Carl Navarro wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Is this the one? (Halfway down the page)
Yes, but look in the big box home improvement stores. Ideal's specific part number 45-165. Mine came in a kit with scissors, a punch down tool and something else for about $90, and the tool alone must be about $20.
Carl
I use a little plastic spinning tool with a very shallow razor blade in the jaws to score the jacket. Then pull.
-- Robert
Yep. You want to adjust the blade to not cut through, but to score deeply enough that a gentle bend or pull at the score will "break off" the jacket.
The Chairman wrote in news:Xns95AE3839E77C6monsterearthlinknet@140.99.99.130:
Ya, you can purchase a simliar stripper from Home Depot for ~20.00 or less.
I've been using that one for quite awhile. I just bought one at Graybar for ~17 bux.
CIAO!
Ed Nielsen CENCOM
Carl Navarro wrote:
You don't normally strip the pairs.
Ed Nielsen wrote in news:CO3qd.154165$HA.3680@attbi_s01:
Does this strip the inside pairs, or just the outer shield? I can't really tell from the description, but it seems like it's just for the outer shield.
The blades are adjustable, although you don't wan to strip anymore than just the jacket.
CIAO!
Ed N
The Chairman wrote:
James Knott wrote in news:IvqdnTTxTPf3izTcRVn- snipped-for-privacy@rogers.com:
I guess I need to see what a true Cat5 wall jack looks like. I am used to the old style screw-post ones, but I guess those aren't correct. Does anyone know of a link that I can see what one looks like? I'll google it, but if someone has one handy where they get theirs, please let me know.
Sorry to follow up to my own post, but there are times that I need to strip the pairs... namely when I run new wire, even for phones, I like it to be Cat3 or 5, so those are the times that I run in to the big delays when I wire the jacks. What do you guys think about stripping in that case?
I don't have a picture handy, but generally, there's a slot, with the contacts in it. The contact consists of blades, which can slice the insulation, as the wire is pushed in. So, you just place the wire in the slot and using the appropriate tool, push the wire into the slot.
For this sort of thing, I just use X strippers. They can remove both the sheath and indiviual wire insulation. Make sure they're adjusted properly for the wire you're stripping.
Huh? In the last 10 or so years, the only wires I can remember stripping were for the 625 type jacks in a motel, the RJ-31x alarm jacks, and the wires that go on the Network Interface Device.
Everything else is insulation displacement.
Carl Navarrro
Stripping wire went out with daisy-chaining and screw-posts. Star-wiring and punchdown IDC all the way!
Even when I _had_ to extend a daisychain, I held my nose and used jelly beans. If for some strange reason, you've got to strip, use X- strippers.
-- Robert
That Ideal stripper is a good one. Just make sure you play with the depth of the blades on a scrap piece of cable before you use it on a real one: the blades are not set to correct depth when you get it from the distributor. As a matter of fact, you'd have to fully retract the second blade as it is setup to cut almost the entire cable - something you'd expect from a coax cable stripper, which it is.
When you set the blade's depth, make sure it does not completely cut through the CAT5E/6 cable's jacket. It only needs to score the material, and you'd then finish it off by bending it a little, so the score becomes a cut. This way you can be sure the inner insulation does not get cut. You surely don't want the inner insulation disturbed in any way.
Good luck!
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