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Posted by Ken Hornstein on July 21, 2004, 8:02 pm
Please log in for more thread options going to put some kind of conduit in the new sections of the house for low-voltage wiring. I'm pretty sure I'm going to use the Carlon flexible conduit (the stuff they call "Resi-Gard"), but I'm not committed to it (if someone has a better suggestion, I'm open to it). I'm planning on running 3/4" conduit from all of the boxes back to a central location. The contractor's electrian wasn't that interested in doing the conduit, but the contractor didn't have a problem with me doing it. I used the Carlon stuff in one room in the basement that I remodeled, and it worked out fine ... except for one issue. I hadn't fully appreciated how much of a pain it was to secure the conduit to the framing members. I used the PVC "hoop" style clamps, and those worked out okay ... but driving all of those screws took a lot of time, and in some limited-clearance places I was forced to drill & countersink bolts & nuts to secure the PVC clamps. I ended up using a fair number of these clamps, because I didn't want the conduit to move around when I was pulling wire through it. I have to wonder if I was missing something. What are you supposed to use to secure the PVC clamps to the framing members? Do people nail them? Do you use drywall or deck screws? Traditional wood screws, with a pilot hole? I guess with the rigid PVC, it's less of an issue because you don't need as many clamps. But I had used that in _another_ room I remodeled, and I discovered that I ended up spending a whole lot of time cutting and fitting the conduit with all of the bends necessary (and that room didn't even have that many bends). The flexible stuff was a _lot_ quicker in this regard. Is combining conduit types an option? I suppose it would make sense to use the flexible stuff where you need lots of bends, but you could use the rigit stuff for long, straight runs. --Ken | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Posted by vincee on July 21, 2004, 3:35 pm
Please log in for more thread options > out okay ... but driving all of those screws took a lot of time, and in
some
> limited-clearance places I was forced to drill & countersink bolts & nuts
to
> secure the PVC clamps. I ended up using a fair number of these clamps,
> because I didn't want the conduit to move around when I was pulling wire > through it. > > I have to wonder if I was missing something. What are you supposed to use > to secure the PVC clamps to the framing members? Do people nail them? Do > you use drywall or deck screws? Traditional wood screws, with a pilot > hole? I guess with the rigid PVC, it's less of an issue because you don't > need as many clamps. But I had used that in _another_ room I remodeled, > and I discovered that I ended up spending a whole lot of time cutting and > fitting the conduit with all of the bends necessary (and that room didn't > even have that many bends). The flexible stuff was a _lot_ quicker in > this regard. > > Is combining conduit types an option? I suppose it would make sense to > use the flexible stuff where you need lots of bends, but you could > use the rigit stuff for long, straight runs. > > --Ken You can use 3/4" drive straps(a hook shaped nail in strap) to secure the ENT (electrical non-metallic tubing). You can get them at a local electrical supply house if your home store doesn't have them. The supply houses usually stick it to the walk-in cash buyers though. Your contractor's electrician probably has some or can get them. I'm not sure why you need conduit unless its for future additions but if your not opposed to the occasional attic crawl you really only need the pipe to get you from the top (or bottom) of the wall to your boxes (or rings). Just run it far enough out so it can be easilly reached in any tight areas. Depending on how many bends you have it might be easier than trying to get a fish tape through all of that pipe. Vince | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Posted by Ken Hornstein on July 23, 2004, 7:39 am
Please log in for more thread options >You can use 3/4" drive straps(a hook shaped nail in strap) to secure the ENT
>(electrical non-metallic tubing). You can get them at a local electrical >supply house if your home store doesn't have them. The supply houses usually >stick it to the walk-in cash buyers though. Your contractor's electrician >probably has some or can get them. Thanks for the tip, I'll check them out. >I'm not sure why you need conduit unless its for future additions but if
>your not opposed to the occasional attic crawl you really only need the pipe >to get you from the top (or bottom) of the wall to your boxes (or rings). >Just run it far enough out so it can be easilly reached in any tight areas. >Depending on how many bends you have it might be easier than trying to get a >fish tape through all of that pipe. Attic isn't an option, unfortunately (cathedral ceilings). It turns out fishing a pull string through is actually dead simple. Tie string to small plastic grocery bag, attach shop-vac to one end of conduit, turn on shop-vac, and place bag in other end of conduit. Zips it right through! With that, you don't have a problem pulling anything. The one trick with doing _that_, however, is that you should pull a double-length string (I suck the string through, leave a couple of extra feet, mark the end of the string still connnected to the spool with a black marker, and then pull more string until I see the black mark at the other end). That way, when you pull a cable, you can pull from the middle and you've still got the string when you're done. --Ken | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Posted by Michael Quinlan on July 23, 2004, 7:16 pm
Please log in for more thread options Ken Hornstein wrote:
> It turns out fishing a pull string through is actually dead simple. Tie
> string to small plastic grocery bag, attach shop-vac to one end of conduit, > turn on shop-vac, and place bag in other end of conduit. Zips it > right through! With that, you don't have a problem pulling anything. Anyone know how well this technique works with cable in the conduit already? > The one trick with doing _that_, however, is that you should pull a
> double-length string (I suck the string through, leave a couple of > extra feet, mark the end of the string still connnected to the spool > with a black marker, and then pull more string until I see the black > mark at the other end). That way, when you pull a cable, you can > pull from the middle and you've still got the string when you're done. When I put in pull strings, I make it double length also. But when I'm done pulling another cable, I pull the string back so I can use it again. This technique has a limited life span though, as the pull string gets increasingly tangled with the cables after each pull. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Posted by Chuck Yerkes on July 22, 2004, 6:57 am
Please log in for more thread options Ken Hornstein wrote:
Kerberos Ken H? > I've getting close to starting a major addition to our house. I'm
> going to put some kind of conduit in the new sections of the house for > low-voltage wiring. I'm pretty sure I'm going to use the Carlon > flexible conduit (the stuff they call "Resi-Gard"), but I'm not > committed to it (if someone has a better suggestion, I'm open to it). > I'm planning on running 3/4" conduit from all of the boxes back to a > central location. 3/4" is pretty big. But sure. > The contractor's electrian wasn't that interested in doing the conduit,
> but the contractor didn't have a problem with me doing it. Woo hoo! Can't lose with that. > I used the
> Carlon stuff in one room in the basement that I remodeled, and it worked > out fine ... except for one issue. Any reason not to use PVC pipe? Use the flexi-pipe on those odd corners and what nots. PVC doesn't need quite as much support as stuff that droops. (and reading ahead, UL is moot with low voltage). > I have to wonder if I was missing something. What are you supposed to use
Theory only, but pneumatic nails guns are easy to use and quick.
> to secure the PVC clamps to the framing members? Do people nail them? > Do
It's never gonna move or be redone. drywall screw weakness is shear.
> you use drywall or deck screws? Traditional wood screws, with a pilot > hole? You don't reall yhave a shear issue in a wall. I appreciate your want to use conduit - it's future proof and you have the ideal opportunity. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Securing flexible conduit
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> going to put some kind of conduit in the new sections of the house for
> low-voltage wiring. I'm pretty sure I'm going to use the Carlon
> flexible conduit (the stuff they call "Resi-Gard"), but I'm not
> committed to it (if someone has a better suggestion, I'm open to it).
> I'm planning on running 3/4" conduit from all of the boxes back to a
> central location.
>
> The contractor's electrian wasn't that interested in doing the conduit,
> but the contractor didn't have a problem with me doing it. I used the
> Carlon stuff in one room in the basement that I remodeled, and it worked
> out fine ... except for one issue.
>
> I hadn't fully appreciated how much of a pain it was to secure the conduit
> to the framing members. I used the PVC "hoop" style clamps, and those