Re: Ethernet connection sensitive to cable length
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Posted by glen herrmannsfeldt on May 7, 2008, 4:50 am
Please log in for more thread options (snip) I have bought bags on eBay for less than $1/cable, hooded with snag proof ends. For unusual length, though, sometimes making one is the best way. -- glen | ||||
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Posted by windsurferLA on May 8, 2008, 2:35 am
Please log in for more thread options >
> > For unusual length, though, sometimes making one is the > best way. I will add that I certainly agree it is preferable to go with commercially assembled cables when ever possible. In my case, I wanted to be able to squeeze the wires through several holes that were too small for the connectors, so the connectors had to be installed after the wiring was threaded over its 100 foot run. After this experience, I will choose to make bigger holes for commercial cables and hire a plasterer and painter to come in afterwards to pretty things up. I'm surprised by very large number of comments on my original post. I suspect that many identified with my problem. WindsurferLA | ||||
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Posted by Robert Redelmeier on May 8, 2008, 8:53 am
Please log in for more thread options > I will add that I certainly agree it is preferable to go with
> commercially assembled cables when ever possible. In my case, > I wanted to be able to squeeze the wires through several holes > that were too small for the connectors, so the connectors had to > be installed after the wiring was threaded over its 100 foot run. > After this experience, I will choose to make bigger holes for > commercial cables and hire a plasterer and painter to come in > afterwards to pretty things up. The preferred solution in this case to to run solid wire and terminate it on patch-panels, wallplates or surface-mount boxes (depending on cable count). Then run short patch-cords to equipment. Much neater, more reliable and flexible. -- Robert | ||||
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Posted by Robert Redelmeier on May 7, 2008, 8:32 am
Please log in for more thread options > I made a patch cord once. Then decided I had the cash to
> buy them. With hooded and/or snag proof ends no less. At > a price that valued my labor at $1 or $2 an hour. Agreed. Even when you have the knowledge and the tools, crimping plugs is hard. Crimping on solid is fairly easy [dressing conductors] but prone to failure from flexing [work hardening]. Crimping on stranded (proper) is very difficult because the conductors won't stay dressed and shift when inserted into the plug. I believe production machinery uses a duck-bill clamp to hold the conductors aligned. I've never seen pliers for this. -- Robert | ||||
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Posted by Mark Evans on May 14, 2008, 9:35 am
Please log in for more thread options > > I made a patch cord once. Then decided I had the cash to
> > buy them. With hooded and/or snag proof ends no less. At > > a price that valued my labor at $1 or $2 an hour. > Agreed. Even when you have the knowledge and the tools, crimping
> plugs is hard. Crimping on solid is fairly easy [dressing > conductors] but prone to failure from flexing [work hardening]. Crimp plugs generally arn't intended for solid core. Even when it works the contact area is likely to be rather less than it should be. > Crimping on stranded (proper) is very difficult because the
> conductors won't stay dressed and shift when inserted into the plug. It helps to untwist and straighten the wires before putting them in the right order and trimming to length. > I believe production machinery uses a duck-bill clamp to hold the
> conductors aligned. I've never seen pliers for this. How would you use pliers? In order for the outer jacket to be held the optimal wire length tends to be around 15mm. > -- Robert
-- Mark Evans St. Peter's CofE Aided School Phone: +44 1392 204764 X241 Fax: +44 1392 204763 | ||||
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> hooded and/or snag proof ends no less. At a price that valued my labor
> at $1 or $2 an hour.