Newbie: Punch down block 66 vs 110, how do these work?
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Posted by eastcoastguyz on March 18, 2008, 9:20 pm
Please log in for more thread options you once were too. My home has a punch down box in it installed by the phone company. It is much smaller than those I see called 66 or 110. The box has four rows and six columns. I can see that all the connections on this punch box block have been used up. I want to add some extensions and wish to replace this punch down box with a larger capacity one. Now my understand how this 4 x 6 punch down block works is that each row shares the same wire connection to any of the terminals(?), usually connected from the other ends, but I guess it doesn't matter. I don't know if this is a 66 or 110 style punch down box, although I don't know if this matters. I have looked for larger punch down boxes, but all I can find in the stores is either the 66 or 110. The 66 made by Leviton is "66 Block, Split M, Clips Included". This one has four terminals across and 50 rows. I'm confused, how can I use this to take advantage of adding many extensions in the home for lines 1 and 2? I see this has clips included, but I don't understand how these work. How does this work? Can you connect the 2 wires for line 1 to the first two of the four going across, and the 2nd line for the next two, and then be able to add as many as 49 extensions to this? I have looked online and some books and have not been able to have this explained clearly to me. I would greatly appreciate it if someone would enlighten me here. Thanks! Edward | ||||||||||||||||
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Posted by Doug McIntyre on March 18, 2008, 10:44 pm
Please log in for more thread options I assume you have a varient of this punchdown block.. (The Suttle A66B63 if the page ref doesn't work). http://www.hometech.com/techwire/head.html#SU-A66B63 Except only 2 pair usable instead of 3 pair usable. This is a 66 style block. The 66 or 110 is mostly the type of pin, and the punch down tool blade you'll use. There's specific models of 66 blocks that are very standard parts. 110 is a bit more freeform, and is popular due to their use in datacomm connections. (I actually prefer 110 for voice, but I'm in a minority around telco cabling circles. Maybe its all the times I've brushed past uncoverd 66-blocks and got zapped.. ) You see alot of 110 in structured wiring cabinets now too. >Now my understand how this 4 x 6 punch down block works is that each
>row shares the same wire connection to any of the terminals(?), >usually connected from the other ends, but I guess it doesn't matter. >I don't know if this is a 66 or 110 style punch down box, although I >don't know if this matters. Yep you've got it, the incoming pair gets split across the first and second rows. The home-runs will get punched down going across in order. All the pins of the row are tied together. If you have two lines coming into the house, then your first line will be on the first two rows. The second line will be on the third and forth rows. >I have looked for larger punch down boxes, but all I can find in the
>stores is either the 66 or 110. The 66 made by Leviton is "66 Block, >Split M, Clips Included". This one has four terminals across and 50 >rows. I'm confused, how can I use this to take advantage of adding >many extensions in the home for lines 1 and 2? I see this has clips >included, but I don't understand how these work. How does this work? >Can you connect the 2 wires for line 1 to the first two of the four >going across, and the 2nd line for the next two, and then be able to >add as many as 49 extensions to this? There's alot more out there than the home-centers carry.. The 66 block you've found works different. It expects that you terminate both your incoming and home-run lines seperately, and then jumper them all together with more wires. You would have to daisy-chain your line down the block connecting your pairs together. If you go online, with some of the other options there, you may find more to your liking. Ie. the ETCON DD1C works much the same way as your 4x6 block, each incoming line pair gets attached to the vertical runs down. Your homerun stations come in and get punched down on the appropriate line. You get twelve here, although you can bridge together two rows and get alot more density. If you want to learn how to wire the 66-block you saw, here's a good webpage that explains how to daisy-chain it. http://www.homephonewiring.com/blocks.html He also has a scheme for daisy-chaining 110, although I do it different. | ||||||||||||||||
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Posted by on March 19, 2008, 6:02 pm
Please log in for more thread options > >My home has a punch down box in it installed by the phone company. It
> >is much smaller than those I see called 66 or 110. The box has four > >rows and six columns. I can see that all the connections on this punch > >box block have been used up. I want to add some extensions and wish to > >replace this punch down box with a larger capacity one. >
> I assume you have a varient of this punchdown block.. (The Suttle > A66B63 if the page ref doesn't work). > > http://www.hometech.com/techwire/head.html#SU-A66B63 > > Except only 2 pair usable instead of 3 pair usable. > > This is a 66 style block. The 66 or 110 is mostly the type of pin, and > the punch down tool blade you'll use. There's specific models of 66 > blocks that are very standard parts. 110 is a bit more freeform, and > is popular due to their use in datacomm connections. (I actually > prefer 110 for voice, but I'm in a minority around telco cabling > circles. Maybe its all the times I've brushed past uncoverd 66-blocks > and got zapped.. ) You see alot of 110 in structured wiring cabinets > now too. > > >Now my understand how this 4 x 6 punch down block works is that each
> >row shares the same wire connection to any of the terminals(?), > >usually connected from the other ends, but I guess it doesn't matter. > >I don't know if this is a 66 or 110 style punch down box, although I > >don't know if this matters. >
> Yep you've got it, the incoming pair gets split across the first and > second rows. The home-runs will get punched down going across in > order. All the pins of the row are tied together. If you have two > lines coming into the house, then your first line will be on the first > two rows. =A0The second line will be on the third and forth rows. > > >I have looked for larger punch down boxes, but all I can find in the
> >stores is either the 66 or 110. The 66 made by Leviton is "66 Block, > >Split M, Clips Included". This one has four terminals across and 50 > >rows. I'm confused, how can I use this to take advantage of adding > >many extensions in the home for lines 1 and 2? I see this has clips > >included, but I don't understand how these work. How does this work? > >Can you connect the 2 wires for line 1 to the first two of the four > >going across, and the 2nd line for the next two, and then be able to > >add as many as 49 extensions to this? >
> There's alot more out there than the home-centers carry.. > > The 66 block you've found works different. It expects that you > terminate both your incoming and home-run lines seperately, and then > jumper them all together with more wires. =A0You would have to > daisy-chain your line down the block connecting your pairs together. Thanks for your helpful reply! If I wanted to go this route, just cause these blocks are easier to find locally, how do I jumper the 66 blocks to create more lines for extensions for line 1 and 2? I got the impression you can't connect more than one wire to a terminal in a punch down box. How do you include a jumper wire across all those terminals while still able to use it for each extension so both wires fit on a single terminal? Here is the 66 block: Column: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 ... etc Row 1: X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X ... etc Row 2: X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X ... etc Row 3: X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X ... etc Row 4: X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X ... etc I used a Continuity Tester and sure enough, Row 1/Column 1 only lights up when connected to Row 2/Column 1. It doesn't light up on Rows 3 or 4, neither of the other Columns too while connected to Row 1/Column 1. So if I want Row 1 to be connected so that all of row one (well, to be practical the first 10 terminals) I need to jump those first 10 terminals together. Still puzzled how to do the jumper without them getting in the way of those extensions I want to connect it. I looked for a photo online of this and can't find an example. Would I take an entire piece of phone wire and simply push it towards to bottom to be out of the way? Or would this jumper have to be striped before I did this? Thanks again for your help and patience here. Edward >
> If you go online, with some of the other options there, you may find > more to your liking. =A0Ie. the ETCON DD1C works much the same way as > your 4x6 block, each incoming line pair gets attached to the vertical > runs down. Your homerun stations come in and get punched down on the > appropriate line. You get twelve here, although you can bridge > together two rows and get alot more density. > > If you want to learn how to wire the 66-block you saw, here's a good > webpage that explains how to daisy-chain it. > > http://www.homephonewiring.com/blocks.html > > He also has a scheme for daisy-chaining 110, although I do it different. | ||||||||||||||||
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Posted by eastcoastguyz on March 19, 2008, 6:39 pm
Please log in for more thread options > >My home has a punch down box in it installed by the phone company. It
> >is much smaller than those I see called 66 or 110. The box has four > >rows and six columns. I can see that all the connections on this punch > >box block have been used up. I want to add some extensions and wish to > >replace this punch down box with a larger capacity one. >
> I assume you have a varient of this punchdown block.. (The Suttle > A66B63 if the page ref doesn't work). > > http://www.hometech.com/techwire/head.html#SU-A66B63 > > Except only 2 pair usable instead of 3 pair usable. > > This is a 66 style block. The 66 or 110 is mostly the type of pin, and > the punch down tool blade you'll use. There's specific models of 66 > blocks that are very standard parts. 110 is a bit more freeform, and > is popular due to their use in datacomm connections. (I actually > prefer 110 for voice, but I'm in a minority around telco cabling > circles. Maybe its all the times I've brushed past uncoverd 66-blocks > and got zapped.. ) You see alot of 110 in structured wiring cabinets > now too. > > >Now my understand how this 4 x 6 punch down block works is that each
> >row shares the same wire connection to any of the terminals(?), > >usually connected from the other ends, but I guess it doesn't matter. > >I don't know if this is a 66 or 110 style punch down box, although I > >don't know if this matters. >
> Yep you've got it, the incoming pair gets split across the first and > second rows. The home-runs will get punched down going across in > order. All the pins of the row are tied together. If you have two > lines coming into the house, then your first line will be on the first > two rows. =A0The second line will be on the third and forth rows. > > >I have looked for larger punch down boxes, but all I can find in the
> >stores is either the 66 or 110. The 66 made by Leviton is "66 Block, > >Split M, Clips Included". This one has four terminals across and 50 > >rows. I'm confused, how can I use this to take advantage of adding > >many extensions in the home for lines 1 and 2? I see this has clips > >included, but I don't understand how these work. How does this work? > >Can you connect the 2 wires for line 1 to the first two of the four > >going across, and the 2nd line for the next two, and then be able to > >add as many as 49 extensions to this? >
> There's alot more out there than the home-centers carry.. > > The 66 block you've found works different. It expects that you > terminate both your incoming and home-run lines seperately, and then > jumper them all together with more wires. =A0You would have to > daisy-chain your line down the block connecting your pairs together. > > If you go online, with some of the other options there, you may find > more to your liking. =A0Ie. the ETCON DD1C works much the same way as > your 4x6 block, each incoming line pair gets attached to the vertical > runs down. Your homerun stations come in and get punched down on the > appropriate line. You get twelve here, although you can bridge > together two rows and get alot more density. > > If you want to learn how to wire the 66-block you saw, here's a good > webpage that explains how to daisy-chain it. > > http://www.homephonewiring.com/blocks.html > > He also has a scheme for daisy-chaining 110, although I do it different. Thanks for your helpful reply! If I wanted to go this route, just cause these blocks are easier to find locally, how do I jumper the 66 blocks to create more lines for extensions for line 1 and 2? I got the impression you can't connect more than one wire to a terminal in a punch down box. How do you include a jumper wire across all those terminals while still able to use it for each extension so both wires fit on a single terminal? Here is the 66 block: Column: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 ... etc Row 1: X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X ... etc Row 2: X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X ... etc Row 3: X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X ... etc Row 4: X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X ... etc I used a Continuity Tester and sure enough, Row 1/Column 1 only lights up when connected to Row 2/Column 1. It doesn't light up on Rows 3 or 4, neither of the other Columns too while connected to Row 1/Column 1. So if I want Row 1 to be connected so that all of row one (well, to be practical the first 10 terminals) I need to jump those first 10 terminals together. Still puzzled how to do the jumper without them getting in the way of those extensions I want to connect it. I looked for a photo online of this and can't find an example. Would I take an entire piece of phone wire and simply push it towards to bottom to be out of the way? Or would this jumper have to be striped before I did this? Thanks again for your help and patience here. Edward | ||||||||||||||||
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Posted by DLR on March 19, 2008, 7:07 pm
Please log in for more thread options eastcoastguyz wrote:
>>> My home has a punch down box in it installed by the phone company. It
>>> is much smaller than those I see called 66 or 110. The box has four >>> rows and six columns. I can see that all the connections on this punch >>> box block have been used up. I want to add some extensions and wish to >>> replace this punch down box with a larger capacity one. >> I assume you have a varient of this punchdown block.. (The Suttle
[snip of lots of details]
>> A66B63 if the page ref doesn't work). >> >> http://www.hometech.com/techwire/head.html#SU-A66B63 >> >> Except only 2 pair usable instead of 3 pair usable. >> As a newbie you might want to skip all the lacing and just get one of these. I've used them a few times and like them. <https://www.tselectronic.com/etcon/dd1.html?tse_Session=d5dec04d1a50a91e400fefc18afff678>
Lots of folks sell these. This site was just the first with a picture big enough you could see what it was. David | ||||||||||||||||
>is much smaller than those I see called 66 or 110. The box has four
>rows and six columns. I can see that all the connections on this punch
>box block have been used up. I want to add some extensions and wish to
>replace this punch down box with a larger capacity one.