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Posted by Dale Farmer on April 9, 2005, 5:05 am
Please log in for more thread options "Newsgroups (std news via SBC)" wrote: To use the old cable, to pull a new cable. Best to go with a two step process. Tape some pulling twine to the old cable, and us the old cable to pull in the pulling twine. Now you can attach the twine to the new cable and pull that in. It is usually wise to pull in a second piece of twine when you pull in the first one, that way if you break it pulling in the second cable, you are not completely screwed. --Dale | ||||||||||||||||||||||
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Posted by Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, th on April 9, 2005, 1:56 pm
Please log in for more thread options >
> > "Newsgroups (std news via SBC)" wrote: > > > Thanks Crackhead! (oh, and you too James ;)
> > > > Now assuming i can't stretch the cable far enough... > > Can anyone tell me the best method when using an existing > > cable to pull new cable? > > One cable is in an exterior wall and the roof is so low it will be > > difficult to even get close. > > Overapping the two cables and taping them together should work > > as long as the existing hole(s) are big enough. But what it they > > are not? Tape them end-to-end?? >
> To use the old cable, to pull a new cable. Best to go with a > two step process. Tape some pulling twine to the old cable, > and us the old cable to pull in the pulling twine. Now you can > attach the twine to the new cable and pull that in. It is usually > wise to pull in a second piece of twine when you pull in the > first one, that way if you break it pulling in the second cable, > you are not completely screwed. No doubt it will break if you use cheap twine. Use some decent rope to pull the cables with. > --Dale
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Posted by Dale Farmer on April 10, 2005, 6:08 am
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"Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\"" wrote: > >
> > > > "Newsgroups (std news via SBC)" wrote: > > > > > Thanks Crackhead! (oh, and you too James ;)
> > > > > > Now assuming i can't stretch the cable far enough... > > > Can anyone tell me the best method when using an existing > > > cable to pull new cable? > > > One cable is in an exterior wall and the roof is so low it will be > > > difficult to even get close. > > > Overapping the two cables and taping them together should work > > > as long as the existing hole(s) are big enough. But what it they > > > are not? Tape them end-to-end?? > >
> > To use the old cable, to pull a new cable. Best to go with a > > two step process. Tape some pulling twine to the old cable, > > and us the old cable to pull in the pulling twine. Now you can > > attach the twine to the new cable and pull that in. It is usually > > wise to pull in a second piece of twine when you pull in the > > first one, that way if you break it pulling in the second cable, > > you are not completely screwed. >
> No doubt it will break if you use cheap twine. Use some decent rope to > pull the cables with. > > > --Dale
I use cheap electricians pulling twine. I buy it by the 5000 foot bucket at the electrical supply house. It's cheap stuff, but it has more strength than my arms do. For pulling in heavy cable, ( which this coax sure isn't ) I have some braided nylon tape, which has a breaking strength of somewhere around a thousand pounds. The second strand is in case you abrade it on a sharp edge inside the wall you can't see, which will severely weaken any sort of pulling twine or rope. --Dale | ||||||||||||||||||||||
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Posted by Lucas Tam on April 11, 2005, 4:42 am
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$RQ7.491@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com: > * use the existing cable to pull new cable. Or,
> * extend the cables using "Feed Thru/In Line Connectors" > > Obviously the latter would be easier, but I want the job > done right and will pull new cable it that's the "preferred" > method. Any input would be appreciated. Of course option #1 is preferred, but if that is not possible, try #2. If # 2 fails, try boosting the signal with a zero loss booster. It's basically an amp which maintains a 0db signal throughout the run. Electroline has one such model - you can find them on eBay. Also you should consider using an amplifer anyways - since a splitter often degrades the signal considerably. -- Lucas Tam (REMOVEnntp@rogers.com) Please delete "REMOVE" from the e-mail address when replying. http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/coolspot18/ | ||||||||||||||||||||||
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Posted by Ed Nielsen on April 11, 2005, 11:27 am
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Lucas Tam wrote: > Of course option #1 is preferred, but if that is not possible, try #2. If #
> 2 fails, try boosting the signal with a zero loss booster. It's basically > an amp which maintains a 0db signal throughout the run. Electroline has one > such model - you can find them on eBay. > > Also you should consider using an amplifer anyways - since a splitter often > degrades the signal considerably. > Do you mean an Active (zero loss) Splitter, which has an amplifier with gain equal to the insertion loss of the splitter. The only way for an amplifier to compensate solely for the loss of passives (splitters, directional couplers) is to attenuate the output of the amp equal to the loss through the devices. (You could pad the input instead, depending on the input levels to the amp.) Manufacturers have no idea what any given distribution system is like. CIAO! Ed N. | ||||||||||||||||||||||
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Extending coax cause signal loss?
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>
> Now assuming i can't stretch the cable far enough...
> Can anyone tell me the best method when using an existing
> cable to pull new cable?
> One cable is in an exterior wall and the roof is so low it will be
> difficult to even get close.
> Overapping the two cables and taping them together should work
> as long as the existing hole(s) are big enough. But what it they
> are not? Tape them end-to-end??