Home Automation Help with 7 Circuit Project?

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Subject Author Date
Help with 7 Circuit Project? dwswager 06-28-05
Posted by dwswager on June 28, 2005, 2:34 pm
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Adding a screened porch to our home. Based on our lighting setup, I
will have 7 individual circuits to control as follows:

Circuit 1 - 2 Ceiling Fans (3 or variable speed)
Circuit 2 - Light Kit on Ceiling Fan 1 (Dimming)
Circuit 3 - Light Kit on Ceiling Fan 2 (Dimming)
Circuit 4 - 4 Can lights (Dimming)
Circuit 5 - 1 Light over Steps
Circuit 6 - 1 Flood Light Fixture
Circuit 7 - 1 Flood Light Fixture

This is all new construction/wiring so I don't need socket adapters and
such, it can all be inline switches. Wiring regular switches is not a
problem, but there is no convient place to put 7 switches. And I would
prefer it be in the house.

Can someone recommend a way to control these seven circuits from a
single control pad (Wired or wireless)? The ability to later control
this remotely via a HTPC is a bonus, but not a requirement.

Thanks for assistance!


Posted by Brett Griffin on June 28, 2005, 9:51 pm
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I would recommend using UPB. Simply automated and HAI makes some nice
switches. The switches can be located anywher in the circuit and for
simplicity may be easier to install them by the circuit breaker panel if you
want remote control access anyways.

You can get their table top controller, that plugs into a wall outlet, or
use a single gang scene controller in a single gang outlet near the
entrances. One switch has multiple buttons, and allows control based on
scenes.

The ceiling fans will need to be on/off configured, but the nice thing about
UPB is every switch is a relay switch and a dimmer, it is based upon
programming, and the programming software is free.

www.simply-automated.com
www.homeauto.com


--
Brett Griffin, Technology Consultant

Architechtronics, Inc.
get to know home technologyT
p. (610) 825.7018 f (215) 827.5484

*top 10 reasons to use Architechtronics for your next project
http://www.architechtronics.com/top10.html

**keep up on cutting-edge technology... join "the EDGE" for free at
http://www.architectronics.com/edge.html

-------------------------------------------


> Adding a screened porch to our home. Based on our lighting setup, I
> will have 7 individual circuits to control as follows:
>
> Circuit 1 - 2 Ceiling Fans (3 or variable speed)
> Circuit 2 - Light Kit on Ceiling Fan 1 (Dimming)
> Circuit 3 - Light Kit on Ceiling Fan 2 (Dimming)
> Circuit 4 - 4 Can lights (Dimming)
> Circuit 5 - 1 Light over Steps
> Circuit 6 - 1 Flood Light Fixture
> Circuit 7 - 1 Flood Light Fixture
>
> This is all new construction/wiring so I don't need socket adapters and
> such, it can all be inline switches. Wiring regular switches is not a
> problem, but there is no convient place to put 7 switches. And I would
> prefer it be in the house.
>
> Can someone recommend a way to control these seven circuits from a
> single control pad (Wired or wireless)? The ability to later control
> this remotely via a HTPC is a bonus, but not a requirement.
>
> Thanks for assistance!
>



Posted by wkearney99 on June 29, 2005, 12:31 pm
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> Can someone recommend a way to control these seven circuits from a
> single control pad (Wired or wireless)? The ability to later control
> this remotely via a HTPC is a bonus, but not a requirement.

Something like a Lutron GrafikEye, Radio RA or a Lightolier system might
work. You'll have to put the switch and/or relays "somewhere" but you could
put controls for them elsewhere. Got a closet nearby? Or some nearby
location that wouldn't look strange with a bunch of wall plates? If so then
you could put something like a 5,10 or 15 button controller from a Lutron
RadioRA system on the porch for control. Then it's just a matter of setting
up with buttons trigger which 'scene' levels.

I'm not sure how many systems will reliably control the speeds on the fans.
You may end up with them being on their own controls, with wall switches for
them unless you only want on/off remote controlling (which is what I do)

Personally, I despise anything powerline controlled. The technology's just
too unreliable. Sure, I wish is were otherwise but experience has shown me
it's very unreliable.


Posted by Brett Griffin on June 29, 2005, 6:49 pm
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> Personally, I despise anything powerline controlled. The technology's
> just
> too unreliable. Sure, I wish is were otherwise but experience has shown
> me
> it's very unreliable.

I would recommend you take a hard look at UPB. It has proven a 99.99%
reliability record for 5 years now. Powerline used to mean X-10. UPB took
the X-10 ideology and made it work. The two biggest problems with X-10 were
signal strength and the frequency it was used at.



Signal Strength. X-10 transmits 5 volts at the zero line crossing. It is
extremely easy to get 5 volts of noise on a powerline circuit, and the zero
line crossing is where noise is most prevalent. Once the voltage of the
noise surpasses the voltage of the signal, you lost communications. The
second problem is X-10 transmits at 121 KHz. At this frequency the signal
attenuates, or loses its strength over a short distance. Combine these
factors together (low signal strength over a short distance, and a little
bit of noise) and X-10 does not work.



Other complaints of X-10 had to use a coupler/repeater and it is slow. What
do you think Radio Ra uses, basically every 30 feet you need a device to
repeat the signal to get good coverage, and Radio Ra is as slow if not
slower than X-10. Now I am not bashing Radio RA, it is a great reliable
technology, but it 3 times the cost of professional X-10 or UPB. However if
you want terracotta wall plates than you better call Lutron to get Radio RA.



Now enter UPB.



UPB transmits approximately 1/6th of a cycle before the sine wave at 40
volts above the voltage of the sine wave. It has a peak voltage around 60
volts transmitting in the 4-40 kHz spectrum. What this means, it works very
well. You will not have noise the masks the UPB signal. If you do, you
have a whole lot more to worry about than your lights, likely nothing in
your home will operate properly. Due to its frequency, I have had dealer
tell me they have seen UPB transmit over 5 miles of electrical cabling.



With UPB, you have about 64,000 password protected addresses compared to 256
X-10 Addresses. UPB also allows for many unique applications that other
protocols do not adapt well to. I have a three-way circuit using UPB, and
there is no traveler wire. There are no UPB repeaters, they do not need
them the signal is strong enough for large commercial factories, it will
talk to you home switches.



The .01% failure rate is due to retrofitting UPB into a graphic eye lighting
(a proprietary hard wired) system. That system does not play well with
third party protocols, this application you may consider a Radio Ra system
for retro fitting.


--
Brett Griffin, Home Technology Consultant


Architechtronics, Inc.
get to know home technology™
p. (610) 825.7018 f (215) 827.5484

*top 10 reasons to use Architechtronics for your next project
http://www.architechtronics.com/top10.html

**keep up on cutting-edge technology... join "the EDGE" for free at
http://www.architectronics.com/edge.html

-------------------------------------------



Posted by Dave Houston on June 30, 2005, 3:52 am
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>I would recommend you take a hard look at UPB. It has proven a 99.99%
>reliability record for 5 years now. Powerline used to mean X-10. UPB took
>the X-10 ideology and made it work. The two biggest problems with X-10 were
>signal strength and the frequency it was used at.

5 years? It was first announced about 2.5 years ago, first shown about a
year ago, and has been shipping for only 9 months or so.

>Signal Strength. X-10 transmits 5 volts at the zero line crossing. It is
>extremely easy to get 5 volts of noise on a powerline circuit, and the zero
>line crossing is where noise is most prevalent. Once the voltage of the
>noise surpasses the voltage of the signal, you lost communications. The
>second problem is X-10 transmits at 121 KHz. At this frequency the signal
>attenuates, or loses its strength over a short distance. Combine these
>factors together (low signal strength over a short distance, and a little
>bit of noise) and X-10 does not work.

You are full of it. The loss of signal strength is independent of distance.
There have been numerous studies that confirm this. It's the inductive and
capacitive loading that attenuates the signal.

Most X-10 transmitters actually transmit 10Vpp at 120kHz. Noise is lowest at
zero crossing.

>Other complaints of X-10 had to use a coupler/repeater and it is slow. What
>do you think Radio Ra uses, basically every 30 feet you need a device to
>repeat the signal to get good coverage, and Radio Ra is as slow if not
>slower than X-10. Now I am not bashing Radio RA, it is a great reliable
>technology, but it 3 times the cost of professional X-10 or UPB. However if
>you want terracotta wall plates than you better call Lutron to get Radio RA.

When did they reduce the speed of light? What about gravity? Have they
changed that law, too?

>Now enter UPB.
>
>UPB transmits approximately 1/6th of a cycle before the sine wave at 40
>volts above the voltage of the sine wave. It has a peak voltage around 60
>volts transmitting in the 4-40 kHz spectrum. What this means, it works very
>well. You will not have noise the masks the UPB signal. If you do, you
>have a whole lot more to worry about than your lights, likely nothing in
>your home will operate properly. Due to its frequency, I have had dealer
>tell me they have seen UPB transmit over 5 miles of electrical cabling.

Your description of a UPB "signal" sounds very much like noise pulses which
are quite common from triacs, motors, ballasts, etc. As I understand it, UPB
generates their pulse by rapidly discharging a capacitor. That sounds like a
noise pulse.

I suggest you learn a few fundamentals before trying to pass yourself off as
an expert. Spouting nonsense like this on topics you obviously do not
understand will get you an idiot label rather quickly.

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